Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

  • 0

patching a pontoon float


tanglemaster

Question

i bought a pontoon for 400 bucks and on the right side it has a couple of holes on the bottom of the float looks like someone took a 1/2 drill bit and drilled holes in it any one got tips for what i should use to patch it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

I'd stick with Marine Man's method. The patches won't look great, but they will work the best It shouldn't cost you a lot of money. Make sure they use a patch though, and not try to fill in the hole. That probably won't hold for long. In my opinion filling in the holes would be like asking for cracks from the fill area and the heat affected zone around it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

HTS-735 II is a "Second Generation" fluxless low-heat brazing rod for nonferrous metals. HTS-735 II will successfully join all aluminum alloys, including those that are not successfully joined by high temperature brazing. When drawn over heated aluminum, HTS-735 II penetrates the aluminum oxide creating a bond that is stronger than the original commercial aluminum. The electrode potential between HTS-735 II and aluminum is so slight that electrochemical corrosion is never a problem. HTS-735 II joints will last permanently in normal or protected environments. They have lasted 10+ years under severe conditions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Quote:

its not aluminium its steel, and yeah there is a little rust


If it's steel there's not much you can do, the rust already eaten part of the steel, you'll probably not be able to weld.

Only solution is foam fill, hoping the pontoon has separate chambers and won't take much foam.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I had a steel pontoon,tried welding,kept cutting back to solid metal to weld, every patch I found new pin holes,Thats why I said lost cause!But I never thought of foam filling my floats were no seperate chambers but they had baffles to limit water sloshing,they'take lots of foam!Valv what kind of foam would'nt absorbe water?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Just a word of warning. Make sure you seal that float. My sister and dad went out on a pontoon boat that had one float take on some water over time and when a couple people walked to the front, the weight shift caused the water in the pontoon float to rush to the front and it caused the whole thing to barrel roll. One person was trapped underneath and they barely got her out in time. It was an older pontoon that didn't have any sort of baffle system in the floats. Many years ago on Big Cormorant by DL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

You can also try Waterweld, an epoxy putty that seals hols and cracks, Walmart has it or also any auto parts store they have rolls of WeldIt epoxy.

Foam is very expensive, any marine shop can do it or you can try to find it online

It's "closed cell" foam, so it won't absorb water.

You juigh have to "braze" instead of welding, it takes an experienced welder to work with such a thin material.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Did you ever fix your pontoon? I got a steel one for free three years ago and had a hole this July and plugged it with JB weld. Labor day it had water in again and we found four small holes. I think I need to go the foam route to repair it or look for an aluminum one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

If it's aluminum, I would collaborate with everyone you know and try to find a young fella that works at an airplane FBO(service shop). Specifically, one that specializes in airframe work, i.e., aluminum repair. They will have the tools and the know how to fix the damage on your pontoon, even if it is an irregular shaped surface. I think you'll find it difficult to get the actual repair shop to work on it, but try to get in the backdoor by way of an employee that would do it on the side for some beer or such. HeHe! Heck, if I were closer to you, I would do it myself, but your gonna have to go this one alone! Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Sorry to hear that Duff. Will give my GSP's an extra scratch behind the ear for you guys today
    • Aw, man, sorry to hear that.  Shed some tears and remember her well.  They all take a piece of our hearts with them; some more than others.
    • yes sorry for your loss..  our dogs are always special...
    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.