Draw loop

[Cooter]

While I'm at it, I'd like to get some more advice from fellow FMer's - awesome site isn't it! So if I switch to a draw loop can I 100% get away from the shrink tubing to align my peep? Also, will it affect my anchor point? And if so that might not be bad cuz I currently set up with the release trigger on the tip of my index finger and I've read numerous times you're better off with the trigger contacting the first joint of your index finger. Guess soon will be the time to experiment with changes, so I'm looking for advice. Thanks all, later.

[Powerstroke]

It can affect your anchor point if the loop is too large or if your bow can't handle a 1/4" change in draw length. Anybody at teh bow shop can help you keep your anchor and maintain timing on your bow.

A string loop won't fix a cheap string that twists. I recently went to a Fletcher peep without the tubing and its working great. The key is having a quality string that wont continue to stretch and creep after int broken in. This stretching will allow your peep to rotate. A string loop can help compensate for that, but it won't be the solution.

[Deitz Dittrich]

Quote:

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The key is having a quality string that wont continue to stretch and creep after int broken in.

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Ding ding ding.. we have a winner!!!! the string is everything when it comes to peep rotation. If you have a good string, you line up the peep once and your pretty much on!.. a string loop can help, but its not the cure!

also, a string loop will change your draw.. it has to! your adding at least 1/2"

as for how to pull the trigger... that is for the shooter.. the best release is one you dont know is going off...some say a thumb release is best?

[Scoot]

Coots,

I echo what was said above, but can tell you that I made a similar change to what you're talking about a number of years ago. It's a good deal for sure. I put on a Winner's Choice string, broke it in good, then put the appropriate number of twists in my string until I would get the peep to come back to the correct alignment every time- works like a charm and no rubber tubing.

As for thumb or pointer/index finger- I started shooting a four finger, thumb bar release a number of years ago and will NEVER go back.

If you have any questions about getting your peep to stay lined up, fire away- it take some messing around and a little time, but it's not too tough.

[Iceman77]

A high quality string material, and the way it is built, that does not stretch while shooting or creep over temperature changes is the key to eliminating peep rotation. I have a question for you, if you remove the rubber tubing from your peep, does your peep rotate as you draw the bow back or does the peep stay in the same position during the start to the end of the draw cycle? If it stays in the same position you can add or take away twists in the string to obtain the correct alignment. If the peep rotates on you while you are drawing then poor quality string materials and/or incorrect string making methods are the culprits to that. For this reason alone I make all of my own strings out of 450+ and 452x and my own methods of building one to make sure my peep does not rotate...ever.

As far as adding a D-loop it will change your anchor point on your draw hand as the length of the D-loop will increase the distance from your bow hand to your draw hand. This will not affect how the release sits in your draw hand. To change that, if you have a strap around your wrist, is to shorten the distance from the strap to the trigger. Ideally it is better to get the trigger into a "meatier" portion of your finger near the first joint. There is more sensitivity in the finger tips which causes apprehension to the shot. It also creates more tension in your hand when trying to move just the tip of your finger. As an example put your trigger finger out and try to bend the finger tip only at the last joint. How much tension do you feel in your finger and hand when you do that? Now bend your finger at the first joint? How much tension do you feel now? Tension creates unsteadiness and aiming issues especially when you are nervous either in a tournament or when aiming at a deer. I have yet to see a professional level archer shoot with the finger tips as they would never be able to be steady enough to shoot well enough to win.

If you have any questions on this please let me know.

Thanks,

Russ

[Cooter]

Thanks for the replies! So...if I added a D-loop and it increased my draw length by .5" if I shortened the release by .5" I would still have the same anchor points? Later.

[Scoot]

It might work like that- of course that would make too much sense. My suggestion would be to add the loop and try it. Doesn't take much time or effort, so give it a shot. It'll probably work just fine although you might have a little "break in period" where you have to get used to it.

[mnfishman]

I use a Tru Ball Tru Nok instead of a string loop. I don't trust the string loops holding up over time. I am pretty sure they work great that is why a lot of people use them but I have also heard that the knots sometimes slip and I don't want that to happen at full draw. Also the Tru Nok will align my peep every time. However my bow has a good string on it so it doesn't twist.

[Gopher_Man]

First of all. Hello all FMers.

Ive been a viewer put never took the time to log in until today. Awesome site.

Cooter, one thing that I have learned over the years of bowhunting is that adding the D-loop, will increase your anchor point, but not necessarily your draw lengh.

For instance when I was in college my roommate worked at a archry shop and when some one has a 27inch draw, that means that your eye distance from your peep is correct when you have the bow set at 27 inches, now say you add a d-loop to that. That draw would put your anchor point a half inch back, but it would not bring the peep closer to your eye. That would all stay the same.

Now in my opionion if you were to shorten your draw lengh a half an inch, your anchor point would be the same, but your eye distance will be different. I think that would affect your shooting even more than having to adjust to a new achor point. Eye distance to your peep is very important when shooting your bows.

Sorry so long, in the future I'll have shorter responses

[metrojoe]

I think we’re all on the same page, but just to be clear, adding a loop does not change your draw length and I certainly wouldn't recommend shortening it to accommodate for the loop. The only thing it changes is your hand slides back further.

[Powerstroke]

Obviously there are 2 ways to do this. You can add a loop and move your release and further back (could change your anchor depending on how you anchor).

Or you can put a few twists in your string and shorten up your draw length 1/4-1/2" and then your release hand stays the same, but where your string contacts your face will change.

I use a kisser button and that is my anchor. Kisser in the corner of the mouth and touch the nose to the string. I don't even know where my hand touches my face cause its not my focus.

Its all about how you shoot, what your anchor is and how you reference it. Talk to a archery pro shop about it. They will help decide what is best for your style.