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we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables, winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc). I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up. For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight. I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches. I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks. This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest. I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware. But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
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reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way. I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves. If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt? Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan. Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to. above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
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RosoRiverRat
hello, I am a frequent viewr of this site but seldom take the time to post. I really like the fact that there's so much free information and the fellow Minnesotan atmosphere on this site. With that being said I need your help I have a chance to purchase this boat for close to the last bid and am curious what your thoughts are. Anything jump out at you that would scare you off? Thanks in advance for all the opinions...
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1996 Crestliner Fish Hawk 1750 side console boat (17’-2” long X 91” wide, 26 gallon gas tank). Remainder of 20 year hull warranty transferable.
1996 60HP Johnson 2 Stroke motor, 3 cylinder, w/ tilt and trim, plus spare propeller. New water pump preventive maintenance in 2002.
1996 Spartan 2400 pound trailer, spare tire and bracket (rewired and new taillights in 2005, new tires in 2002).
Custom travel / mooring cover, motor cover, transom trolling motor cover (by Top Gun in 2001).
Wavewackers splash guards.
Minnkota 48# thrust 12V bowmount trolling motor, w/ autopilot, w/ cordless remote control.
Minnkota quick release bracket for bowmount motor.
Motorguide 52# thrust 12V transom trolling motor, w/ spare propeller.
Starting battery and trolling battery, 2 trolling battery trays.
On-board 2 bank 10 amp trolling battery charger.
2 bank trolling battery meter.
4 seats / 6 seat bases.
AM-FM cassette w/ weather band, 2 speakers.
Eagle Optima 240 pixel graph (new this year) on RAM adjustable mount on dash.
Small RAM mount for GPS on dash.
Marine band radio and 8’ antenna at console.
Compass on dash.
Swim ladder on transom.
Left / right cargo nets in cockpit.
3 interior cockpit lights.
2 12V power outlets at console.
3 anchor cleats on bow, 4 bumper cleats on gunwales.
Vertical 3 position rod storage in rear.
4 removable rod holders with flush mount bases on gunwales.
3 marker buoys and carrier.
1 gallon Johnson oil.
Pump and grease for lower unit, and extra spark plugs.
All owners manuals.
Clear title.
Engine fogged and lower unit grease changed every fall. Trailer bearings repacked every fall. Washed frequently, waxed yearly.
Engine decarburized every spring.
No dock rash on boat – only minor dock bump marks.
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