There have been a few questions about repacking wheel bearings so I thought I’d highlight the basic steps that I use. Feel free to throw in other hints, even corrections, as well.
Repacking wheel bearings is pretty easy, inexpensive, takes about an hour to do but, it could get messy. Have plenty of rags available.
First, loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you’ll be working on. Breaking free the lug nuts with a hand wrench, while the tire is off the ground, is very difficult to do. Now, jack up that side of the trailer so the wheel is off the ground. Make sure the trailer is supported securely and completely remove the lug nuts and wheel.
Next, remove the bearing buddy or dust cap. Do this by lightly tapping on the outer edge, alternately all the way around the perimeter, using a rubber mallet. Using a metal hammer and wood block also works well.
Now, remove the cotter pin, axle nut and washer. The hub assembly can now slide off the axle. Remember to catch the outside bearing as you slide the hub off the axle. Wipe off and discard old grease. Next, remove the bearing seal on the backside of the hub. Damaging this seal while removing it is unavoidable. Plus, a new seal should be installed anyway and is less than $3. After the seal is removed, remove the inner bearing. Wipe clean all bearings and the inside of the hub of old grease.
Inspect the bearings, race (this is the part in the hub where the bearings ride in) and the axle. ALL parts should be knick and pit-free. If the bearings or race are pitted, buy new ones! If the axle is pitted, it should be polished down to remove any pits or gouges. Steel wool might work well for this.
Axle clean
Bearing race is free from pits and scratches. (I happen to knock out this race from the hub while tapping out the seal. Usually, the race will stay inside the hub)
Packing the bearings with grease the old fashioned way is easy but a little messy. Lay a glob of grease on the palm of one hand. With the bearing in the other hand, push the bottom side of the bearing into the outside edge of the pile of grease in the other hand. Think of it as slicing the pile of grease with the bottom edge of the bearing.
As you do this, new grease will be “packed” into the bearing and old grease will be pushed out of the top of the bearing. Continue packing new grease all the way around the bearing until you see new grease being forced out of the top of the bearing.
Old bearing grease being forced out the top of bearing while being "packed" with new grease.
Installing the inside bearing first, spread some grease onto the race and set the packed bearing in.
This photo shows an unpacked bearing for clarity. Pack the bearing first.
Next, align the new seal into the hub and gently tap it in, level with the hub.
The inside bearing is done. Proceed to pack the outer bearing the same way.
Slide the hub assembly onto the axle. Push some grease into the hub housing. Install the outer bearing, washer and axle nut.
Firmly, but not aggressively, torque the axle nut until the bearings “seat” into its race and new grease. Loosen the axle nut only until the cotter pin slot on the axle nut matches up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. The hub should spin somewhat freely now. Make sure you install the cotter pin to hold the axle nut in place. If you forget, the axle nut would loosen and the whole hub and wheel assembly might pass you on the freeway someday.
Reinstall the bearing buddy or dust cap by lightly tapping it into the hub.
Reinstall wheel and you should be good to go, on one side. Now, go do the other hub.
I just figured that it is easy enough to just get a 3 bank so when the boat is not in use I can keep all 3 batteries charged. I have not bough a charger yet, maybe I will give it some more thought.
Edit: After thinking this over, with the size, weight, and heat output of the charger (as well as the cost) I think it makes sense to just
buy a 2 bank charger, I have a smaller charger i can use on the starting battery when the boat is sitting at home. Forgive me, for i am a retired engineer and I have to obsess over everything...
Congrats on the motor! I think you’ll like it.
I can’t say much on the charger location but I’ve seen them under the lid in back compartments and under center rod lockers. 160 degrees is more than I expected to hear.
Curious why you’re opting for a 3 bank charger with a 24V trolling motor. Unless you don’t feel you be running you big motor enough to keep that battery up as well?
I did buy an Minnkota Ulterra, thanks for the recommendations. I had a bunch of Cabela"s bucks saved up, which helped. Now i need to
get an onboard battery charger. Where do you guys mount these things in your boat? The manufacturer I am looking at {Noco genius)
says tht their 3-bank charger will run at 160 degrees, seems like a lot of heat in an enclosed compartment? Thanks for any input on this.
Wasn't terrible at a state park beach. Antelope island maybe. I wouldn't recommend it as a beach destination tho. Figured I was there, I'm getting in it.
Question
Dave
There have been a few questions about repacking wheel bearings so I thought I’d highlight the basic steps that I use. Feel free to throw in other hints, even corrections, as well.
Repacking wheel bearings is pretty easy, inexpensive, takes about an hour to do but, it could get messy. Have plenty of rags available.
First, loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you’ll be working on. Breaking free the lug nuts with a hand wrench, while the tire is off the ground, is very difficult to do. Now, jack up that side of the trailer so the wheel is off the ground. Make sure the trailer is supported securely and completely remove the lug nuts and wheel.
Next, remove the bearing buddy or dust cap. Do this by lightly tapping on the outer edge, alternately all the way around the perimeter, using a rubber mallet. Using a metal hammer and wood block also works well.
Now, remove the cotter pin, axle nut and washer. The hub assembly can now slide off the axle. Remember to catch the outside bearing as you slide the hub off the axle. Wipe off and discard old grease. Next, remove the bearing seal on the backside of the hub. Damaging this seal while removing it is unavoidable. Plus, a new seal should be installed anyway and is less than $3. After the seal is removed, remove the inner bearing. Wipe clean all bearings and the inside of the hub of old grease.
Inspect the bearings, race (this is the part in the hub where the bearings ride in) and the axle. ALL parts should be knick and pit-free. If the bearings or race are pitted, buy new ones! If the axle is pitted, it should be polished down to remove any pits or gouges. Steel wool might work well for this.
Axle clean
Bearing race is free from pits and scratches. (I happen to knock out this race from the hub while tapping out the seal. Usually, the race will stay inside the hub)
Packing the bearings with grease the old fashioned way is easy but a little messy. Lay a glob of grease on the palm of one hand. With the bearing in the other hand, push the bottom side of the bearing into the outside edge of the pile of grease in the other hand. Think of it as slicing the pile of grease with the bottom edge of the bearing.
As you do this, new grease will be “packed” into the bearing and old grease will be pushed out of the top of the bearing. Continue packing new grease all the way around the bearing until you see new grease being forced out of the top of the bearing.
Old bearing grease being forced out the top of bearing while being "packed" with new grease.
Installing the inside bearing first, spread some grease onto the race and set the packed bearing in.
This photo shows an unpacked bearing for clarity. Pack the bearing first.
Next, align the new seal into the hub and gently tap it in, level with the hub.
The inside bearing is done. Proceed to pack the outer bearing the same way.
Slide the hub assembly onto the axle. Push some grease into the hub housing. Install the outer bearing, washer and axle nut.
Firmly, but not aggressively, torque the axle nut until the bearings “seat” into its race and new grease. Loosen the axle nut only until the cotter pin slot on the axle nut matches up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. The hub should spin somewhat freely now. Make sure you install the cotter pin to hold the axle nut in place. If you forget, the axle nut would loosen and the whole hub and wheel assembly might pass you on the freeway someday.
Reinstall the bearing buddy or dust cap by lightly tapping it into the hub.
Reinstall wheel and you should be good to go, on one side. Now, go do the other hub.
Cost
Two new seals – $4 to $5
Grease (Marine wheel bearing)– less than $3
Time ~ 1 hour
I hope this helps somebody
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Dave
There have been a few questions about repacking wheel bearings so I thought I’d highlight the basic steps that I use. Feel free to throw in other hints, even corrections, as well. Repacking wheel
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