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perchking

Fall skid house build, all aluminum. Need input on runners

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I would definitely put a vent in your box to outside... It wont be as warm as your shack but still warmer than outside.  The risk is two fold in poisoning and explosions... Just out of curiosity, what is the risk to a propane tank outside of a portable?

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The explosion point, if it doesnt work out i Can always add a external mount.  Is it fine to just use rubber if I only have to go  8'?

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thanks moon, mine will be secured to the back side of my shelf than attached  to each vertical support stud until it terminates in the strongbox in the back right.

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One thing I would definitely recommend is to use your own tank and have it refilled vs trading it out for already filled tanks.  I have seen multiple traded tanks that leak... You just never know how others are treating those tanks in an exchange program.

 

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Moon thanks for the recommendation.  Plus, I will be adding a grommet where the hose goes into the strong box.  Knowing LP is heavier than Air we did cut holes in the bottom of the box and will plunge cut though the floors and ensure they are free of debris like snow and ice so if there is a leak it sinks down under the house and vanish into thin air:).

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Just a thought, you could also stick an LP detector inside the box where your tank will be.  Can pick a battery powered combo LP/CO detector for $30-$50 and stick it in the bottom of the box.  That sucker starts ringing and you know you've got issues. 

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I'd vent the door instead of bottom.  You don't have a lot clearance off the ice plus add snow.    The bottom vents will easily plug with snow and slush.  Also where is the propane going to go when its vented under you ice house?

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I would get that tank outside as fast as you can! I think a propane tank inside is flat out crazy

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So... its been a while since I have been on. For some reason my account got tagged and the admin can seem to get it back on line so I had to start a new account. The nice part is that I can post again... the back part is that all my old posts have been removed (grrr)

Anyway.... I have been wanting to post on this one for the last two weeks. Propane tanks in anything but a portable is a bad idea! Keep in mind that propane expands when it gets warmer. Propane tanks have a pressure blow off valve. How do I know? We were fishing a number of years back and were going to come back the next day. We decided to leave the stove on low because the tank was very close to being empty. Instead of taking the full tank home with us we decided to leave it in the house.  We came back the next morning, opened the door and whooooaaaa! instant propane smell. Luckily the tank running the stove went empty otherwise I am afraid we would have had a good boom.

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Took everyone’s advice and stopped being stubborn, the tank is now housed on the exterior and the furnace and thermostat is hooked up and running fine. Only item left is rattle reel selection, my chair, and bench seat. 

E869966F-F467-4566-99B9-F438B9983559.jpeg

95FA5E17-696F-438F-801B-4B9A1CC4375B.jpeg

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Any concern not having any support under the tank?  Regarding rattle reels, I bought the lindel brand, but would prob go with the catch cover brands if I did it again

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34 minutes ago, rl_sd said:

Any concern not having any support under the tank?  Regarding rattle reels, I bought the lindel brand, but would prob go with the catch cover brands if I did it again

what is the issue with the lindell brand???  never used but just wondering!!!

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No issues, but they take up quite a bit more room and aren’t as loud as I would like. 

1 hour ago, perchking said:

There is a support, it’s actually extremely sturdy I just don’t have the strap tightened. 

 

 

36266531-F168-4F64-9342-6BADD7F0B355.png

Looks good, couldn’t see the back strap. That’s a nice design

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I have Lindells, Ultimates, and Catch Cover rattle reels and would rank them in that order. The Ultimates work fine but the Lindells are just as good for less money. Not a deal breaker but I actually prefer the bigger spool when bringing lines in to move etc.  

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6 hours ago, Surface Tension said:

perchking, I see a problem with your last pictures.

The shack isn't on the ice yet. :)

Agreed!  Tell mother nature to drop the temps a little!

 

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Next up was installing the floor. We went with 3/4” marine grade plywood. I also coated both sides and all edges with a water sealer just to be sure.    After installing the plywood floor we put the furring strips in and ran the wiring.    Each wire goes back the front wall where I made a little panel. The front wall has an opening for a 55” TV that sits flush in the wall. The little squares above and below the tv opening are for in wall speakers.  This is half of the wires the other side of the panel has the other half.  This is all the positive wires coming through the front wall and behind the panel. I forgot to take a picture of the back of the panel after I cleaned it up and put the negative wires through.  Here is a picture of the front of the panel while I was booking everything up. All the positive wires on the left and negative on the right. My wiring is a lot different than most shacks. I’ve never made a panel like this before so I didn’t really know what to order. The terminals that the wires go into are called din rail terminal blocks the snap onto a little piece of aluminum called a din rail.  Later I found stackable ones that would have saved space but I like how it turned out. Each terminal block has a slot in it where you can put a jumper. So everything that was going to be on one switch would be jumpered together. Things on a different switch would be jumpered and so on. The terminal blocks have a hole on the top where one wire comes in and gets screwed down to hold it and there is the same on the bottom. So once the terminal blocks are jumpered to things you want on the same switch you only need one wire out the bottom. Things that were ran off of the switch went out the bottom and over to the relay board. You do the same for each thing you want to run off a different switch just run a wire to a different relay. The long green rectangle thing on the right is a relay board. Our house has 12 light switches not all of them are used yet but they can be so I bought a relay board with 12 spdt relays. The green square on the left is an arduino which is basically like a mini computer chip that you can program. I’ll explain more once I get to what our switches look like. The bottom right of the panel is for the trailer lights and brakes and all the stuff that hooks up to the truck.  I eventually replaced these normal terminal blocks with the din rail style.  Here is the wiring panel all finished up.  The reason for using all the relays and arduino was so I could use this light switch and eventually be able to control everything from a smart phone. In the fish house we have 2 of these switches which each have 6 buttons on them. Each switch has a set of cat 5 cable running to it. One set is connected to the atduino board and sends a signal saying the button was pressed.  The other cat 5 wire is to send a signal to turn on and off a little light next to the button when it is pressed   Here is the back of the switch. So basically how it works is the arduino has pins on it that can send or receive signals it also has pins that can send 5 vdc or 3vdc. So one wire from the arduinos 5 v pin hooks up to the back of the switch where it says sc (switch common 5v coming in). A different wire connects a different arduino 5 v pin to the terminal that says pc (pilot common which is just the little lights next to the buttons). So when a button is pressed a brief 5 v signal is sent from the arduino to the switch which goes through board on the switch and to the wire terminal that is for that button the signal is then sent back to a digital pin (receiving pin) of the arduino on a digital pin. The arduino has to be programmed to receive different signals on the pins you want. Once the arduino sees that a button was pressed it sends a signal over to the relay board saying a button was pressed close the relay that corresponds to that button. When the relay closes it allows the 12v to go to whatever you want to turn on. The nice thing about how this system works is everything can be changed in a matter of minutes. Say I wanted to have the ceiling lights be on button 4 instead of 1 you just have to change a couple of numbers in the code and plug the arduino into your computer and upload the updated code. I’m sure I lost most people right away and I’m not sure if anyone else would even want to do something similar but If so you can message me and I can try and explain it better. Before this I’ve never done anything like this so I had to learn all of this online and how to write little bits of code and do all that which was fun but also frustrating at times since I didn’t have anyone to go to with my questions.  Not sure If this video will work or not.  4B8EE058-806B-4BF6-8DD8-8FC76BE46BD0.MOV  
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