Jump to content


we are 'the leading edge' I Share on HSO
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About YettiStyle

  • Rank
    HSOShow.com Family

Profile Information

  • Location:
  • Gender:

Recent Profile Visitors

2,836 profile views
  1. I don't have any pictures on the underside of the hole lights. I basically just took my 1x2 trim board and routed out 1/4" x 1/4" from underneath. I then used silicon to glue the LED strip into that routed out area then nailed up the trim board. I wired each side separately (switches are between the rattle wheels on each side) for easy access. All of my lights are 12V so I didn't have to worry about the AC/DC plug in or the remote that some of the LED light strips come with. Here is a link to LED strips similar to what I used. Was able to cut these to length. https://www.amazon.com/Water-Resistance-Waterproof-Flexible-Cuttable-Lighting/dp/B01HRKVG7Q/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536072006&sr=8-11-spons&keywords=led+strip+lights+12v&psc=1
  2. Just wondering where you are getting those figures from? The finished Yettis are 4900-5200# and the finished castles are 5900-6100 for an 8x21'. Keep in mind I also believe that Yetti's advertised weights are a little off and lower than the actual weight (kind of like MPGs on a new car). So the weight savings you get is 700-1,000 pounds. That is nothing to warrant an upgrade in truck or to write home about. And unless you are hauling your 21' foot shack out on the ice with an ATV or SxS you still have to drive your 5000+# truck onto the ice. The weight savings between a 21' Yetti vs Ice castle will not permit you to get out on the ice any earlier in the season, at max you'll need 1" extra. I will also note that Yetti puts decals everywhere on there shacks that state "do not exceed 55 MPH". I know Minnesota is the land of slow speed limits but here in SD that comes into play. It is well within the capabilities of a 1/2 ton to pull 6k# at 55 MPH. Any failures at that point is driver error. Don't get me wrong, I'm totally a Yetti guy but the notion that aluminum is a game changer with the weight savings on these large shacks is nothing but blowing smoke. The real reason to buy a Yetti is quality, durability, and no rust. The biggest advice I can give is to buy what you can afford.
  3. I started off with just an 8x16' shell and finished it off myself. Nothing out of the ordinary for materials inside. Cedar T&G, front closet wall, 3/4" sandwich floor, 2 couches (lighter than factory), only 1 battery. The only thing that I could see being heavier than factory is my 2 folding beds above the wheel wells (~60 lbs each), having 2 TV's, and the closet wall being made of 2x4's. Weighed it on a CAT scale with only the propane tanks full and the gear that always stays inside. I don't remember the exact numbers but it was right at 4,200 lbs with a perfect 15% tongue weight.
  4. An aluminum shack is only going to save you a couple hundred pounds on something of that size. Aluminum is stronger than steel but also more brittle so to overcome this manufactures add more metal to their aluminum frames. Other than the frame everything else such as interior finish, batteries, fridge, oven, TV's will all weigh the same between manufactures. I have an 8x16' Yetti that weighs 4,200 lbs. The reason I got the Yetti over a steel shack wasn't because of any weight savings but because of corrosion. The advantage of aluminum's weight savings really only shines in bare-bone smaller shacks, not a 20' tandem.
  5. I caution the reflextix just because you will lose the stackability of your hole sleeves. I would imagine they would take up quite a bit of room then.
  6. Anyone run into a problem with wet fingers sticking/freezing to the metal latches when it's really cold?
  7. Lots of different opinions on this topic apparently. I've done about ever single one listed so far and the best way I've found is to lower the ice shack all the way, pop the tops on your catch covers and start drilling holes (try and be as close to the center as possible, no big deal if you're a little off). Don't clear any of the slush just yet but place the hole sleeves down your holes. With all the slush still there you may have to step on them to cut through the slush but it makes a really good seal. Then I sweep what shavings have come up to the house (if any) back down the holes. Get yourself a slush copter http://www.slushcopter.com/ and start clearing your holes. I spent the $60+ on a slush bucket and totally regret it after spending my first season hauling slush all season. The slush copter takes 10 seconds to clear a hole filled with slush and you don't have to lift anything or scoop your holes afterwards. By far one of the best investments I've made for my ice shack. Never blocked my shack either but not a bad idea to at least have a spud bar with to break yourself free if you do freeze down. For some rookie advice: Get yourself a slush copter and a set of IC Nuts https://winchdrivertools.com/. Your back will thank you. Also, if you have a Honda Generator it is mandatory that you get CLICK HERE to change your oil. It makes empting your oil so much quicker and cleaner. Other nice add-ons for a Honda generator is the extended-run fuel tank or an hour meter to keep track of hours (for oil changes). Congrats on the new toy. Tight lines!
  8. I always start with a full tank on my internal tank on my Honda 2000. Connect the fuel cap with line to external tank, making sure the vent on the external tank is open. Start the unit like normal. Stop the unit like normal by turning fuel supply to "off".
  9. Just a thought, you could also stick an LP detector inside the box where your tank will be. Can pick a battery powered combo LP/CO detector for $30-$50 and stick it in the bottom of the box. That sucker starts ringing and you know you've got issues.
  10. If you find a deal use whatever you saved to buy/make an extended run tank. Things are worth their weight in gold. Nothing better than ripping the starter cord once and never having to worry about it the rest of the weekend. Delchcchi made a good point as well about having a place locally who is able to do warranty work. Honda's notoriously are well built and I've never had a problem with mine but you never know.
  11. Go with the manufactured power supply. They are cleaner, easier, and much more practical. Personally, I like the Progressive Dynamics PD4045 but WFCO will still do the job. Also make sure you get a battery disconnect switch (I've got a Blue Sea Systems) to make sure any parasitic losses aren't happening between trips. I would suggest to not use an inverter at all. They are inefficient and I would suggest at least two batteries to make sure you always have enough power for your furnace if you are really considering an inverter. You don't have any big power draws but little things add up quick. Personal preference for myself and a majority of wheelhouse users is to just run the generator the whole weekend. Get yourself an extended run gas tank and don't worry about anything all weekend. You will need to change the oil in your generator before it runs out of gas. Having the generator on all weekend opens up a lot of other opportunities too, my favorite being the crock pot. Nothing better than a fresh 8 hour roast or chili while fishing.
  12. Go with the Eskimo HC40. 4-stroke and any fumes are gone before you're done scooping out your holes. Electric is nice if you're wanting to just push a button and drill but the HC40 will outlast any electric comparison, specially when you step up to a 10" auger.
  13. Always been a Honda guy but there is a fairly good daily deal on Amazon for a Briggs & Stratton 3000W generator for $900. Not very familiar with their generators but their engines have a solid reputation of being dependable. Looks like it has a lot of useful features such as build in wheels, fuel gauge, LCD power output gauge, hour meter, ect. Also has a built in fuel pump so there is the option to add an extended fuel tank. Not sure if anyone else here has tried their generators but just another option to add into the mix. https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-30545-PowerSmart-3000-Watt/dp/B00IWJOOU8/ref=gbps_tit_s-3_1712_c2063639?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d3152026-148f-4b24-a686-6518d33b1712&pf_rd_s=slot-3&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_i=gb_main&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=RTYQ0DGF4JF15XKM3MX3
  14. I agree with the wheel wells. I don't know how thick the plastic is but I do know that cold plastic and hard objects don't necessarily agree with each other. Personally I don't even like the look of the new wheel wells. To me they look cheesy with the large flare.
  15. Thanks for the hydro warning. Only way I'd upgrade shacks is to get an 8x21' with tandem hydro axles. I'm totally content right now with my 8x16 but just been kicking the idea lately. Going to need a little more confidence/reviews in the hydro's and the new glass roof before I drop over $18k on just a shell...
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.