Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Blood Moon


Recommended Posts

tripod for sure, then I just used the 2 second delay instead of the remote  for fun I set the camera on auto-no flash to see what it would do. I was ok with it so left it that way. close up shots were were cropped a little,  ISO 3200, F 5.6, shutter a little under a second.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thing to remember is shooting the moon (eclipse or not) is like shooting during the day. I always keep my ISO at around 100 to keep noise from showing in the darker backgrounds. My shots were all with the Mark IV and 300/2.8 lens. I shot both RAW and JPEG but only used the RAW files to process. I was able to retain considerably more detail from these shots. All shot in manual mode and manual focus. Depth of field is not an issue when the moon is 226,000 miles away like it was last night.

This shot is just before the start. ISO 100, f 10, shutter speed 1/30 second. I could have opened up my aperture just a bit to raise my shutter speed to reduce any vibration or shake.

5DBL2463-XL.jpg

Those settings will hold true until you get about 1/2 of the way through an eclipse. Then you have to make a decision. Do I expose for the bright white of the moon or try and bring some of the detail out in the shadow part of the moon. This will give you  bright white crescent but give you some color and detail in the shadows. I did both on the way to the eclipse I exposed for the highlights and as it came out I exposed more for the shadows. This will give you two totally different exposure settings.

Here I am still at my original settings of ISO 100, f10, 1/50s

5DBL2478-XL.jpg

On the way out. My settings now are ISO 100, f2.8, and 0.6s for the shutter speed. (less than one second)  Two completely different looks.

5DBL2513-XL.jpg

Shooting the actual eclipse at its peak you will have much longer shutter times and I usually open up my aperture to the widest available mainly to get me the fastest shutter speed I can to reduce camera shake and vibration. I had an issue with that last night due to some wind. I also want a fast shutter speed to reduce the movement of the moon itself, its moving fast up there! It becomes very noticeable when shooting the longer lenses at a distant object. In this case use a remote release that I have when I hook my phone up to my camera. The self timer is good in a pinch but it takes a long time to reduce vibrations after pushing your shutter button.

Pretty much the peak, camera settings are now ISO 100, f2.8 and 2 second shutter speed. I could have raised ISO to get a faster shutter time due to the wind, and I probably should have since I noticed shake in a number of shots. Shooting ISO 800 still would have kept noise to a minimum and kept wind shake way down with a faster shutter speed.

5DBL2494-XL.jpg

All at once. I hope that helps some. I've done a few of these so it helped get things up and running quickly for me. This one was different in the long length it actually lasted. Plenty of time to get settings dialed in.


Eclipse%201-XL.jpg

And one shot with the clouds as well. Still ISO 100, f2.8 and 2 second exposure. You can actually see the shake from the wind in the little stars. They should be pinpoint sharp instead of have an oblong shape. Needed better bracing! If you zoom into 100% on the moon you can see the shake as well.

5DBL2505-XL.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.