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Gas octane for auger?


123fish

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Thanks for the replies. I have been running 91 octane in my lawnmower, weedeater, and snowblower. I read somewhere where two different guys said to run 87 octane and your auger would start easier and have more power than if you were using 91 octane. Had not heard that before so I was wondering if there was any truth to it.

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Well there may be some truth to running lower octane because many engines these days are designed to run on 87 because its more readily available. The problem is in our state and many others in the north they out ethanol in it and it doesn't say it on the pump. Ethanol attracts water and is bad on many levels.

There is also another option that I am seeing show up more often is the premixed gas in a liter can. Its got non oxygenated fuel a fuel stabilizer and premixed with oil. Pretty handy but not cheap. I've seen it in hardware stores and small engine shops.

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The ethanol in the fuel is no big deal, unless maybe your rig sits with the same gas in it for eons.

Arguably, ethanol blend may actually be preferable in the winter. Generally it's dry so very little water to absorb from the air. And, if you do get condensation in the fuel tank it will absorb into the fuel and be carried through. With pure gas it could pool in the bottom/gas line and freeze.

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Wow, at $24 a gallon I think I will stick with non-oxy 91 ($3.47 yesterday), plus Amsoil Saber (1.45 for 1 gallon pillow pack), plus an ounce of Seafoam (0.44 per ounce). That works out to $5.36 per gallon. I'll take the slight hassle of hauling the gas can. And I have had zero issues running that mixture for all my small 2 stroke engines, in fact it has made my 12 year old Eskimo run better than it ever did before.

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I always laugh when people talk about the hassle of mixing gas. It's about as easy as tasks come. 128 divided by whatever ratio you want to run is how many ounces of oil you need per gallon. Even easier is to buy a ratio-rite and simply fill it to the line. I use 87 in my car and truck, EVERY other gas motor I have gets 91 no-ox as well as 1oz of stabil per gallon of gas. The combo of no-ox gas and stabil keeps all water out of it. I only had it happen once, but I had a few drops of water in the tank. I tipped it over with the cap closed, then opened the vent screw. It seemed to drain out the water.

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Everyone will have different opinions on different matters. I just try to find the non-oxygenated stuff usually from Super America.Then I add in the oil which will have some sort of stabilizer built in.

1 Gallon lasts me FOREVER! But I always try to create a new batch ever season.. and then burn the old stuff in my car (DONT TELL ANYONE!)

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That difference in octane will not have a big effect on starting. The Reid Vapor Pressure (RVP) of the fuel is what dictates how it will start. The vapor pressure is how well the fuel vaporizes so it is easily burnt in the engine. When people talk about winter and summer fuel, this is what they are talking about. Summer RVP is usually around 6-8, winter RVP is usually around 10-12. When it is hot out in the summer you don't want the fuel to vaporize too easily as it can vapor lock. Probably won't happen in a small engine but I have seen it happen in boats where the engine is completely enclosed. In the cold winter weather, you want the fuel to vaporize more easily so it starts easier. If you take the fuel from your weed trimmer that you mixed up in July and put in your auger and tried to start it when it was cold, there is a good chance it won't start. I have seen several people who could not get their snowmobiles started for the first time in the winter and it was because they put fuel in it that they had sitting around since summertime with low RVP.

As far as ethanol, you don't want it. The shelf life of ethanol fuel is 1/3 of that of non ethanol fuel. For that gallon of gas that you are going to burn in your auger, spend the extra $.50 and get premium non/eth fuel and add stabil to it.

There are several new blended fuels made for small engines like Lawrence said about VP, there is also True Fuel, and one made by Husqvarna, you can get them in both 4 stroke and 2 stroke pre-mix. It is about $6 for a quart but really how much are you going to use? I can run my push mower for about 6 hrs on 1 gal gas. That is a lot of holes in the ice. It is also cheaper than having someone clean the carburetor on your auger if you don't know how to do it yourself. I have not tried them yet in the winter so I don't know what the RVP of those fuels are, I don't know if there is a way you can find out or not. I am guessing it is somewhere 7-9 range so it is good for both seasons.

If your auger doesn't want to start and you question the RVP, let it warm up in the fish house for a little bit and it should start right up.

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91 non-Oxy gas.

Little bit of stabil

No issues in the past few years. After a winter with bad fuel twice I will never put the cheap stuff through the auger or the sled.

For the small additional cost for the peace of mind it is an easy choice for me.

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I always run e10 fuel and put in whatever 2 cycle oil. Never drain the fuel just put a little sea foam in fuel when it's going into summer if I remember. tother than that I throw it in the corner and drag it out when it's first ice. Going on 8 yrs now. Seems to start no problem, and run good. I never had a single problem running e-10 in any of my small motors and do it all the time. I think many people are paranoid about stuff they don't need to worry about.

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You have been lucky. If it works for you, don't change. I have had bad luck and have had to clean several carburetors on different pieces of equipment, lawnmowers, generators, weed trimmers and because of that I will not use E10.

Like I said before, octane does not have anything to do with starting. Unless your pilot jets are plugged up from E10 breaking down and won't flow fuel, then it won't start. Non eth fuel also breaks down and will plug jets but it just takes longer.

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I agree with Agronomist, its not that big a deal. Especially with augers, worse case scenario your carb gets dirty, and you need to spend 30 minutes every couple of years to clean it out. Almost everything I have is a 2 stroke, some are more sensitive than others. To make it easier, I use 91 no-ox which works great in all small engines, and last the longest.

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The use of seafoam is most likely protecting you from having problems. I will not run any ethanol in any of my small engines. Period.

I've forgot to put sea foam in it for summarization before didn't seem to matter. Fuel in general doesn't have much for standards when it comes to adjuvant loads and blends between different companies.

Ethanol burns hotter, which actually will help burn fuel more complete, which should cause less problems with dirty carbs. That is unless fuel companies are using substandard fuel and using the ethanol to bring the octane high enough to meet government standards to sell.

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I agree with Agronomist, its not that big a deal. Especially with augers, worse case scenario your carb gets dirty, and you need to spend 30 minutes every couple of years to clean it out. Almost everything I have is a 2 stroke, some are more sensitive than others. To make it easier, I use 91 no-ox which works great in all small engines, and last the longest.
you do realize that "non oxy" IS a fuel containing NO ethanol
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