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Tires......what's the diff?


Eric Wettschreck

Question

I'm building a new frame and set of running gear for my permy fish house. (big project, long story.

Anyway, the tires that were previously on it were street radials, 205/75/r15. For budget purposes I plan on keeping the same hubs and wheels. The tires are pretty old and rotten so I need to replace them. The question is, "What's the difference between a street radial and a trailer tire?" And do I really need to put a "Trailer rated only" tire on this fish house? I have my share of tires laying around and access to a ton of others in almost new shape, but none of them are "Trailer rated" tires.

Thanks.

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I can't answer your question specifically (sp) but I do know this. I replaced the original tires on my first boat trailer with standard radial tires. They actually worked pretty good until I had tread separation about a 100 miles from home and the tire was flapping against the fender. The tire never went down so I put the spare on and made it home. The trip I was on was approximately 800 miles round trip in the spring so there may have been some heat on the tires. I now buy only Goodyear Marathons and I am very happy with them. I always check tire pressure before, during and after the trip.

You can put used tires on your trailer but make sure you have a flashlight and a quick pit crew to get it changes before you get hit along the roadway.

Mike

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If I am not mistaken trailer tire have stiffer sidewalks and are more durable and are made of different rubber compounds then passenger tires that have more flex to them. The passenger tires are made to flex to stay in contact with the road for handling.

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While I can't argue which one is ideal for your trailer, "trailer only" tires are not made for trailers specifically, rather they are not allowed on cars. That tells me all I need to know. Seeing as a permy is a fairly heavy duty trailer, I would be using the tire with the highest weight rating.

A perfect comparison is those who tow large campers usually make the switch to radials for the added capacity and durability. This is also why radials cost more.

If you only haul that baby out to Shetek once and then back home at the end of season, then get the cheapies.

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Passenger tires have flexible side walls.

Trailer tires have a stiffer side wall and all round tougher tire.

While you want a passenger side wall to flex, you don't want a trailer sidewall to flex.

End result trailer sway.

Take a tight turn with a tandem trailer and you'll see the tires roll over with a radial P tire.

Next load rating.

A ST(special trailer) load rage C (4300lb single axle)inflated at 50 psi vs a passenger tire same size inflated to 35 psi has almost 1000lb less load rating. That flexible sidewall roll on corners at highway speed isn't taken into account in that equation either.

All that is going to take a toll on cord and ply separation.

If it was a light trailer, light loads, with low center of gravity it would matter but if your getting up there in weight it will matter.

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So then where does 8 ply vs 10 ply come into play?? I had problems with my last truck where rocks were pounding thru the tires (Goodyears!!!) in real cold weather, the tire guy talked me into 10 ply tires, they were stiffer but did the trick for me, and lasted forever.

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Thanks for the replys guys. I should have given a bit more detail. This permy is all aluminum and with the new 500 or so pound steel frame I'd be surprised if it hits the scale at over 1800 lbs. I take it back and forth on the weekends. The farthest I really take it is aboot 25 miles or so.

Having read the responses I decided to fall off my wallet and buy some 3500 lb spindles and hubs, and a decent set of trailer tires. Which, is what I should have done in the first place. A good bonus for me is I can use the same spare for the fish house that I have on my regular trailer, therefore saving me a bit of coin as I only have to buy 2 tires and not 3.

Good info here, thanks guys.

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