Decoy carvers

[Dorkfish]

I have a question for those that carve their own decoys recently I have noticed that some of my supplies are running a tad bit dry. Such as lead and fin material. I was wondering if anyone had some tips on acquiring more lead or even a substitute. Also if any one had any ideas on fin material???

Thanks for the help

Dorkfish

[shamalex72]

025 aluminum can be found at most hardware stores. You can get it couple different sized sheets. For lead, probably try tire shops, they might part with some old wheel weights.

[Dorkfish]

So the only problem with tire weights is most have a heavy coating of plastic over them and others are made out of a form of steel

[mrklean]

hit up scrap yards they have tire weights, thats where i get most of my lead for melting. It isnt the cleanest lead have to remove a lot of junk but its lead, and its getting harder and harder to find.

[jasonmichalski]

I've been useing flashing from the hardware store, and I picked up 15lbs of lead for $20.00 shipped on E/bay last year, and I have found lead from talking to people that have it for some reason laying around. I had the same issues as you last winter, I thought I had enough supplies to last years then I got let go from work in November and started selling decoys, my supplies lasted about a week, lol!!

[Neighbor_guy]

I too like to buy my aluminum sheet fin material at Menard$ or the depot. I am unhappy with the depot's goods however. It is marked the same as from the other store, but is a much thinner product.

As far as lead goes, I get most of mine from estate sales and garage sales. Most of what I use is recycled lead duck decoy anchors. The soft stuff melts better than the hard cast, and there is a lot of skim off, but its working for now.

[Neighbor_guy]

A related question for those using copper...

Where are you finding copper sheet that is ridgid enough to get good fins?

I would like to do some exposed copper fins on a few and have yet to find any copper sheeting that will hold up the way I want it to.

[Dorkfish]

One thing that I forgot to ask is what type of paints people are using. Currently I am using spectra tex from badger and also createx airbrush paints both of which I am having a lot of tip dry from. So any suggestions would be much appreciated. I also have some reducer on order so hopefully that will help out

[PGF]

I just got 18lbs of lead at the scrap yard for$18, they had a giant bin of it

[jasonmichalski]

as far as copper goes I like pipe scrapes that I cut and hammer flat on the anvil, then polish up with my jeweler's polisher, and for paint I use CS coating systems vinyl jig and lure paint, its great if have some down time I add a drop of thinner to the end of the airbrush and that's enough to stop tip dry, and if its spider webs I just turn down the air pressure.

[jasonmichalski]

I just got 18lbs of lead at the scrap yard for$18, they had a giant bin of it

great find, I just got about 10 pounds my grandpa found in his barn just in time I was almost out.

[Neighbor_guy]

I differ from most in that I like to use rattle cans for paint. (rustoleum) Add in some paint pens, and detail brushes (using the paint from the can) Then clear coat. In some cases I will epoxy them as well, depending on if they are for use or display.

[Dorkfish]

Epoxy them???

[jasonmichalski]

Epoxy them???

A lot of lure makers 20min epoxy the out side of the bait as a hard sealer then slowly spin it till it drys so there's no runs.

[Neighbor_guy]

I use the "Mix and Pour" epoxy they sell as countertop sealer. Equal parts in a dixie cup and brush on with a disposable brush. It is by far the hardest finish I have found, self levels to eliminate brush marks, gives the decoy a "wet" look, and gives depth to gliter to look like a gell coat on a fiberglass boat.

It will sag and fill in detail so I dont use it often. Also because it stays tacky for 12-15hrs it will shut down the shop for a day.

[Gordie]

I use the "Mix and Pour" epoxy they sell as countertop sealer. Equal parts in a dixie cup and brush on with a disposable brush. It is by far the hardest finish I have found, self levels to eliminate brush marks, gives the decoy a "wet" look, and gives depth to gliter to look like a gell coat on a fiberglass boat.

It will sag and fill in detail so I dont use it often. Also because it stays tacky for 12-15hrs it will shut down the shop for a day.

If you use a butane or small propane torch you take the air bubbles out faster and it will dry faster, that's how we used to do bar tops.

[Laska]

Late post but better late than never....

LEAD:

Go to a stained glass window place, and ask them if you can have their old scrap lead from their past jobs. it wont be painted and just Melt it down and pour into mini muffin pan for easily putting them into your hot pot. its cheap enough. Normally I pick up 500lbs @ a time in 5ga buckets for no cost. Might cost a little bit but nothing like in the stores or online.

I use .032 gutter material, any gutter installation place will have extra rolls. Normally they will sell it to you for cost of aluminum per pound.

Paint Createx Paint works great, use acrylic thinner if it stiffens up or is drying too fast.

Windex for just fine for cleaning out airbrushes in between colors.

[jasonmichalski]

Nice laska never thought about stained glass places

[jkranz36]

Neighbor guy, have you had the bar epoxy crack on any of your decoys? I have used this stuff on the last dozen decoys I've made and just had one crack open on me. I called the company and she said that below 30 degrees all bets are off. I'm wondering if I'm the only one that this has happened to and also trying to figure out what else to use as a clear.