Green Treated or AC2?

[BigDogRob]

O.K. I purchased a real fixer-upper. I know they make a marine grade plywood, but how much better is it really? I know that I haven't decided if I am going to put carpeting or vinyl on the flooring yet, but I would imagine the vinyl would be better at shedding water. If I paint the plywood before attaching or gluing down the covering is it really going to make a huge difference? I also am thinking a 5/8" floor over the weight of the 3/4" and probably going to put in foam under the flooring for floatation purposes.

[LatLong]

Is your boat aluminum or fiberglass? I just bought a fixer upper too and was cruising a boat remodeling forum. I read that regular pressure treated wood can react with aluminum and cause corrosion and marine plywood won't.

[Walleye Guy]

Do not put green treated in an aluminum boat.The aluminum and the chemicals in the treated plywood to do not work well together and the aluminum in your boat can be seriously damaged. Use marine grade plywood.

[20lbSloughShark]

New green treated wood supposedly does not react with aluminum, I used it in my boat, and its been a whole year, no corrosion. Green treated wood can last 20 years or more, and definitely put foam underneath.

[BigDogRob]

wit with aluminum I am however thinking that with paint it should be enough of a barrier?

[TruthWalleyes]

Go Marine!

[BigDogRob]

Can a guy pick it up at any big box store? Or special places?

[RebelSS]

Marine. They make it for a reason.

[loadmaster]

I would say marine, but I live in Duluth and it was a special order item. The deciding factor was the price, big difference between the two. I figured that the boat I re-did, was going to last another 5-10yrs so I could no justify the extra money. I went with Ext grade plywood. The new wood can cause a reaction with the boat, but there is an easy solution that was given to me a local boat repair. Go to local Men and get a roll of rubber that they use for roofing it is sticky on one side. Lay that down the length of the stringer and ribs, sticky side down and you have a barrier for the corrosion. Good Luck.>>>>>later the load

[luckycrank]

+1 3 YEARS NO CORROSION

[h8go4s]

Below is a direct quote from the specification guide for Wolmanized pressure-treated wood. Here's the link to the complete PDF:

http://www.americanpoleandtimber.com/pdf/treated_wood_specguide.pdf

"The conditions that are conducive to attack by fungal decay and termites also promote metal corrosion. Hot-dipped galvanized fasteners(meeting ASTM A 153) and connectors (ASTM A 653 Class G185 sheet), or better, are recommended for protection against the effects of moisture often present where treated wood is used. For Permanent Wood Foundations, use 304 or 316 stainless steel. Aluminum should not be used in direct contact with this wood."

[20lbSloughShark]

Don't buy from that ^ company. I bought AC2 from Menards, and I was told that it would work with any metal or screw. $70 for marine vs $30 for AC2; it was a no brainer for me.

[Vince1970]

Go marine. By the way, you can go to campbels in superior, they get there marine i believe from manion's in billings park, i ordered and picked it up myself.

[TruthWalleyes]

Don't buy from that ^ company. I bought AC2 from Menards, and I was told that it would work with any metal or screw. $70 for marine vs $30 for AC2; it was a no brainer for me.

ive learned to spend my money on something that will last. ive also learnedto not take advise from menards high school employees. by no means are they educated on the chemical reactions of their products.

its like buying a $30 raincoat every year, or buying a $70 raincoat for 10 yrs. that has become a no brainer for me. to each their own choices

[Walleye Guy]

I have seen what treated plywood does to aluminum flashing on a deck my buddy built. Why would you take the chance that it hurts your boat? Do it right the first time and don't worry about problems that may occur down the road.

I guess you could use the new hole in the side of the boat to hang your stringer or minnow bucket on...

[BigDogRob]

I decided against going with the green treated and the AC2 and went with untreated plywood and am going to cover it with rubber lining material instead. I haven't heard of many who have tried it so I thought it may be something good to try. If it don't work then I can switch it out another time and another reason to spend time with family. One nice thing is if it don't work I will have patterns to make the next floor. I did go with 5/8" just for strength when using pedistal seats then figure I will double it up on the bottom side for added strength. I am planning on using pink closed cell foam on the bottom of the floor. I thought about a pour in foam, but then thought about if my flooring idea don't work I would have a pain getting the flooring out in the future. I still may carpet the floor afterwards just to cut down the reflection and glare on sunny days. I know I am sure some will complain or bash me for not using the marine the first time, but learning is all about trying new things and finding new things. I will try to post some pics after I get a bit more done.

[delcecchi]

If you do the foam and let it cure before putting the floor on, wouldn't the floor still be easy to take off?

[TruthWalleyes]

I'll give it 1year before you start to rot. (Been there done that, used 3/4")

[fishnowworknever]

I'll give it 1year before you start to rot. (Been there done that, used 3/4")

Yep, this time next year you'll be ripping that soft rotted wood out of your boat.

Do it right the first time.

[jjz]

FYI, marine plywood is just as likely to rot as any ext plywood. You pay extra because it has no voids and is very stable. That means when you seal it with expoxy or whatever it wont split or check breaking the waterproof seal. If it is not too late at the very least put a couple coats of spar varnish on each piece and dont forget the edges and holes drilled in it.

[LightningBG]

FYI, marine plywood is just as likely to rot as any ext plywood. You pay extra because it has no voids and is very stable. That means when you seal it with expoxy or whatever it wont split or check breaking the waterproof seal. If it is not too late at the very least put a couple coats of spar varnish on each piece and dont forget the edges and holes drilled in it.

+1

Marine plywood

Marine plywood is manufactured from durable face and core veneers, with few defects so it performs longer in humid and wet conditions and resists delaminating and fungal attack. Its construction is such that it can be used in environments where it is exposed to moisture for long periods. More recently, tropical producers have become dominant in the marine plywood market. Okoumé from Gabon is now the accepted standard for marine plywood, even though the wood is not very resistant to rot and decay. Each wood veneer will be from tropical hardwoods, have negligible core gap, limiting the chance of trapping water in the plywood and hence providing a solid and stable glue bond. It uses an exterior Water and Boil Proof (WBP) glue similar to most exterior plywoods.

Exterior plywood with a good exterior grade coating on it should be just fine for multiple years. It's not like these decks are submerged (hopefully).

[BigDogRob]

LightningBG,this must have come from the same article I read about marine plywood. I do plan on doing a sealer on the seams/edges before the rubberized coating. I don't see myself going out in a huge rainstorm to go fishing nor running my boat with it half under water, and therefore thought it would be worth a try. I know someone who used epoxy on their decking and it has been 9yrs now and his is still nice and solid (non-treated) and still going strong. Like I said I may need to rip it back apart and do something differently, but I consider it a project that I am creating family time, and wanted to try something different rather than just copying what everybody else does. The little engine that could wouldn't have made a name for himself if he listened to all the doubters. lol

[fishkins]

LightningBG,this must have come from the same article I read about marine plywood. I do plan on doing a sealer on the seams/edges before the rubberized coating. I don't see myself going out in a huge rainstorm to go fishing nor running my boat with it half under water, and therefore thought it would be worth a try. I know someone who used epoxy on their decking and it has been 9yrs now and his is still nice and solid (non-treated) and still going strong. Like I said I may need to rip it back apart and do something differently, but I consider it a project that I am creating family time, and wanted to try something different rather than just copying what everybody else does. The little engine that could wouldn't have made a name for himself if he listened to all the doubters. lol

Just my but in my opinion carpet has more to do with floors in

boats failing than ANYTHING, I ditched carpet years ago and don't miss

it a bit. My boat has a fiberglass interior, but you should be able to

get similar results from the coating you plan to use.

[fishnowworknever]

Check out what carpet and unsealed holes will do to your deck over time. This was marine grade plywood with fiberglass. Plus it smells nasty after you get it wet. Whatever you do, make sure you seal every single hole you drill in any piece of any type of wood with either epoxy/poly and a product like 3M 4200. Every. Hole.

[BigDogRob]

Well that pic looks gross... Best luck to all on the opener coming up! I'm hoping to have mine ready in time to use it...(if my painter has time next week)if not we have plenty of beautiful days to go coming up!