MY 14FT V-LUND REBUILD PROJECT

[Tierney]

MY LUND REBUILD

I grew up fishing at our cabin in Northern Minnesota with my father. Some of my favorite memories are those floating around catching fish and learning the tricks of the trade with my hero. My dad passed away just over a year ago. With plans of restoring the old tin tub just before he passed, I knew it was something I could still do in his memory. The following shows information and pictures through my experience and would love feedback. I also can help with any questions you might have if you are considering a project like mine.

Basic Boat Information:

1979 V-Lund Boat

14 Feet in Length

C Series

I first started by removing all of the old boards. I then used a pressure washer and cleaned it out as well as I could. I also scrubbed most of the boat with some soap and water. With many ideas already drawn out, I began removing the floatation foam between two of the benches for livewells. I also removed some from the back for electrical installation but I will be replacing it.

My next step could have been a number of things but I chose to paint the inside. I found some electrical tape that worked out perfectly for lining the gunnels and other areas I wanted to keep from new paint.(no stick after and easy to work with)

I went with a charcoal type color to match some carpet I will install. I I used a 2 in 1 outdoor paint and bought a paint sprayer. I used 2 light coats.

I chose to spend a pretty penny on a new outboard motor. The past few years with our 7.5 Chrysler were troublesome. The only people that could drive this boat was my father and I as constant pumping of the choke and other tricks were used constantly while running. We had it checked out and were told that it would cost quite a bit to fix and we would be better off replacing it.

After some research and many phone calls, I found what I was looking for. A 25 HP 4 stroke Mercury outboard. A lot of motor for this boat. Perhaps too much and I guess I wont know until it first hits the open water but pushing the limits in a project like this can be easy.

I called a couple different places to get quotes on painting the outside of the boat. After a lot of thought, I chose to have someone do this for me. My reason was that I wanted a good looking boat and the outside is important. I might have been able to spend a bunch of money on nice paints but for about $450.00, I had Maaco auto body do it. It turned out better than I expected. Also, I thought I would spruce it up a bit and do more than just the red stripe. I had asked if they could shine up the original tin color but they couldn't. I decided to remove some of it by having them paint a black stripe where the boat was fastened together. I also had them paint the back.

I picked out two boat seats. The one in the front will be mounted on a casting deck and the one in the back will be mounted near the motors.

I seem to be one of the few that think this boat will be fine with this motor. With weight distribution, I am confident that everything will work out fine. Max speed is probably out of the question though. I cannot lie, I am a bit nervous that I bought too big of a motor but...I'm a MAN.

Some original Lund stickers. I went to the online Lund catalog archive and found the year of my boat. I then found the exact stickers for that year as each year is slightly different. I think I spent about $15.00 on them.

My next step was to put in some type of livewell system. I did a lot of research and bounced from one idea to the next nearly everyday. I found a company near a relatives place that could put together some metal squares that would fit right between the bench seats. They had done my uncle's livwell years back. I brought my boat to them and left it for about a week. This is the result and couldn't be happier.

I began cutting out new bench seats and the casting deck. After some consideration, I chose to cut floor boards as well. The casting deck was a bit tricky. I had to retry twice before finally getting something I liked.

I knew I wanted marine grade plywood. That's what I read online all over. I was told but numerous people that I didn't in a boat like mine. I chose some lighter wood for the benches and floor. A somewhat heavier piece of wood for the casting deck to help with weight distribution. Once everything was cut, I coated it with a water resistant used on decks.

With all this work being done, I found it hard to actually fish anywhere. Paddle boat!

I went to Cabella's and spoke with an employee in fishing about livewell aerators. I found this.

Now I am carpeting all of the bench seats, floor, and casting deck. I ordered two different color outdoor carpets from Home Depot and recieved them after a few days. The benches will all be a grayish color and the floor and casting deck will be a charcoal color. In carpeting these, I used a nail gun and stainless steel nails.

I did not know how I was going to have the livewell doors open and close. I decided to go with a unique idea and use the ball snaps found in many cabinets. Pictures will be up in a few days.

[leechlake]

I'm really interested in your post. To answer you question on too much motor I have a Lund SSV 16 with a 25 yamaha 4 stroke and with me in it alone it rides terrible, it porpoises up and down and in any wind it feels like the boat could veer left or right at any moment. The front of the boat is too light and I have to add 100 pounds of sand bags in the front. You may have that licked if you put batteries up front (my battery is in back) and the extra weight with the floor etc. It isn't a problem with speed it's just the terrible control when in it alone without some ballast added.

The problem is solved with another buddy in the boat and it rides perfect. I've been fishing with a tiller since I was 10 so I have plenty of experience with boats.

I'd suggest not finishing the boat entirely until you get it out on the open water and figuring out how to adjust weight properly to alleviate these problems. It certainly is attainable merely by adjust where battery or batteries go and also maybe the gas tank, or livewell if that is an option. I'd think it would be better to distribute the weight of the gear you actually will need in the boat rather than adding weight via sandbags or other ballast like I've done.

[TruthWalleyes]

Nice job. Make sure you have a way to drain ALL the water from your new livewells.

[fishnowworknever]

Wow that paint job looks great! Carpeting looks really sharp - Good work!

You didn't use green / pressure treated wood on that front deck did you? It looks a little "green" in that picture, thats the only reason I ask.

[Tierney]

I wasn't sure how I was going to do a drain system. I decided that lifting the livewell out would be easy. They all fit nice and snug and have lips preventing them from moving or even making noise. I can simply lift them out with the fish in them and dump them out. The Basserator also clips on and off. As far as the battery in the front, I will have two under the casting deck as well as the gas tank which will run under the floor and to the motor. I thought this would help greatly with the motor situation. Thanks for the reply!

[that_guy]

I did almost the exact rebuild last spring. I think with the two batteries up front AND the fuel tank you will be fine with that motor. It'll be interesting to see how it all comes out, but I want to give you a big ole Atta Boy on the job you are doing.

Looks very sharp.

[Bueford27]

very nice work. looks good

[soldoncass]

Looks like a fun project, and looks like you are doing a good job.......however there are some things I would be concerned about. The weight of a 4 stroke far outweighs a 2 stroke of the same hp. What does the plate say ,for max hp,in the back of the boat? My internet search says 20 hp for a 14-c Lund. I noticed you have taken some foam out of the seats....make sure you put at least that much back in under the floor, so it doesn't sink.

I replaced my old 35 hp motor, with a 40 hp 2 stroke . My boat is a 16' Lund Pike D, with steering, and was rated for 60 hp , back in 1977 when it was built. When I looked for motors, I was looking for a 50 hp, but settled for a 40 hp 2 stroke, for 2 reasons. The weight and the different way they rate the hp of motors now, compared to back then. They didn't recommend going up to the max with newer motors, compared to the old ratings system. The old one wouldn't get the boat up on plane, but the newer one does, and it is safe.

I opened up the floor more, and still added more flotation under the floor than the original.

Lifting out a full livewell, with fish and water, from a tight spot won't be as "easy" as you think.

Good luck with your project.

[BoxMN]

You didn't use green / pressure treated wood on that front deck did you? It looks a little "green" in that picture, thats the only reason I ask.

FWIW, I tested out some "treated" on alum a while back, in an old boat, that still gets used, and on the transome of another... Some I painted, some I did not, and had it right against the alum. No issues so far (that I can see...) on either, going on almost 8 years or so. Not saying that treated is "good" but it is likely not the catastrophe that reading about it would have you think

With that said, I am a big fan of true marine grade plywood, and use that for my "non-test" rehab projects

Good luck.

[mrpike1973]

looks very nice. however i would be concerned with the motor i had the same boat with a 15 hp 4 stroke it got scary it was to heavy in the rear and if i back trolled it would take water fast. looks great i would just be care full. if memory serves i believe mine was rated for 20 hp. ended up putting the motor on something else and sold the boat.

[soldoncass]

I couldn't remember the hp rating differences, so I did a search about it. The info I saw said it was "standardized "about 1983. Before that some companies were doing it different to gain an edge. The old way, was rated at the "crank" or "flywheel"....the new standard is at the prop shaft, so the current method is the actual output in the water. The old way had less output at the prop, because of the gearing loss, etc. Some people estimate about a 10% difference, while one guy I read said his calculations are about 4%. Whichever is correct, just remember the ratings on a pre 1983 boat do not equal the new standard, so a one size drop should probably be used.

[EBass]

I too would be concerned with the engine weight. Do you have boat insurance? It looks like it wants to do a wheely.

I have a 14' jon boat (I put in floors, decks, wiring, etc) w/25H Merc, but 2 stroke. It's also old (1988 design, but rebuilt powerhead and lower unit twice, oops)

The boat is looking good though!

[SkunkedAgain]

I'd suggest not finishing the boat entirely until you get it out on the open water and figuring out how to adjust weight properly to alleviate these problems.

[soldoncass]

My final .02.

I had a 14' Mirrocraft aluminum boat,15" transom, with a 15 hp Johnson , 2 stroke motor on it. (very similar size boat to yours) It went very well, even packed with gear and 2 guys....a third person bogged it down, and definitely lowered it in the water. Then I went to a 14' Lund, 20" transom, with a newer 20hp 2 stroke motor. That was a little wider, and higher, so it handled more weight much better. I still wouldn't recommend putting a 4 stroke on that one.

If my info is correct....the c-14 is rated for 20 hp max, 15" transom, 780# capacity...including people, batteries, gear, motor, gas, depth finder, wood, live wells, fish, refreshments, etc.. A 4 stroke weighs 163#s, plus oil and gas(about 10# per gal), take that 163# off rated capacity of 780# and see how little weight you can really put in the boat, including all the other stuff/ people I listed.

My 16' pike D and the ssv 16 mentioned above, both have a beam of about 6' and are 16' long and have a 20" transom.....built to handle more weight (1100-1450 #s). They spread the weight over a larger water area.

You are really doing a first rate job on the painting and floor, and carpeting, etc.....I don't want to see you (or anyone else) spoil the memory intentions, by putting too much stuff/weight into a small boat.

[masoct3]

Great work. Let me know if you want to sell it

[Tierney]

I love all of your comments. That's the whole reason I spent 2 hours putting up info and information. Although I still feel like I can get this boat to sit well and actually float right, all of your comments have made me rethink a lot. I will keep the 25 HP motor unless it truly is too much and the problem cannot be fixed. I have high hope however. I do understand the weight distribution can be a problem still as I would hate for it to sit too low in the water. I also understand the reverse water treading as well as additional information. I have set a timeline to test this boat twice before opener wally season in 45 days. All might not be done by this time but I assure you 95 percent of it will be. The more comments I get, the more I want to prove those that think it wont work wrong. I also am a bit worried it wont float/sit right and drive right. I am dedicating this entire project to my father (RIP) and to tell you the truth, I am very hopeful that this thing will turn our right. As for selling, that is not an option. I would be happy to build you something you would be willing to buy but on my time and income, it could take a year. Although it may not look like mu much to most, this is my pride and joy as well as dedication to my dad. Keep the comments coming though. I will have new pictures up within the next few days to show my progress. I honestly cant stop thinking about this summer. Also, this may not be the place to ask but I have been looking for a northern border camp site I can spend about a week this summer to do nothing but fish, hike etc. I want it to be exclusive deep in the woods (reachable by hiking or boat) and to really experience a good week of camping and fishing. If you have any suggestions on cheap/free places to explore please let me know. Thanks again and new info should be up shortly.

-Kyle T

Proud Minnesotan

[Tierney]

You are correct. I was planning on changing the sticker from 25 hp to 15 hp so I dont get in trouble. My main idea is to get this hp to work for this boat. I bought extra floatation foam, weight distribution, and I have a lot of confidence. I appreciate your info though and will be sure to let you all know how it gos first time in the liquid

[JeremyCampbell]

Great work. Let me know if you want to sell it

x2

[leechlake]

Tierney,

very noble and also fun project. I can tell you we're all "on board" for this project ending up just like you want it. I'm sure we've all worked on these types of things that become a near obsession, that's what makes it so much fun. I think all of the posts are well meaning suggestions. I think we've all been there where we think things through and then the laws of physics betray us. If that happens in this case you just get to tinker with your toy more. My father in law who is an engineer always says, "when you run into a problem that's when the fun begins."

With that said, you may launch this baby and much to your joy it floats and drives like the perfect fishing machine you want because you've done your homework. At that point, you just start making the memories that you want.

Keep up the good work and don't change the sticker to a 15hp, no one will believe it!!!

[TruthWalleyes]

I ripped a LOT of foam out of my boat when i remodeled it. I added a 2nd bilge pump. 1 is automatic, 1 is manual. I figured if i got into that much trouble on the water and 1,500 gallons/hour combined bilge can't keep up...well there's always insurance.

I've also got a ton more weight in the boat than before, and the origional foam i highly doubt would keep anything afloat anyway.

[i'majigger]

I did a project like this years ago and for the drain on my live wells I just run a plastic hose from under the live well, under the floor to the back of the boat. As we now have to remove the plug from our boats before moving down the road anyway, you just pull the plug on your live well and the water runs out the back through your boat plug. This worked very well in my boat.

[SkunkedAgain]

The more comments I get, the more I want to prove those that think it wont work wrong.

I like your moxy. Although make no mistake, 99% of the folks on this thread offer comments because they want to see you succeed and be happy. I think that we all get rejuvenated by rebuild projects. In fact, you've inspired me to rip the casting deck off my 12ft Starcraft this spring.

[JohnMickish]

That is a way cool project. Your doing a great job for a great reason.

[dairyman]

I've got a 14 foot lund also---it's equipped with 35 hp motor. I have two batteries and the gas can up front of my boat and I think it handles ok. I do most of all my fishing by myself. My tag says my lund can handle a 35 hp motor

[TyGuy02]

maybe you've said it already, but is the casting deck removable or openable? I did basically the same renovation on my boat that is exactly the same as yours. I left the casting deck loose, so that I could just lift it out when I wanted to. Perfect for a couple of deep cycles, spare life jackets and other stuff

Here is the finished product for my rebuild a couple of years ago.