Another Non-oxy question.

[Hoffer]

So heading up to Canada for a week this Monday.

Gonna fill up my 17 gallon on board tank and at least 4 other five gallon plastic gas jugs.

Going to fill up in the falls with non-oxy.

My question is...I may have 1 or 2 other 5 gallon gas jugs that are already full (just recently) of regular gas. (NOT Non-oxy).

If i add these slowly over the course of say 5 or 6 days...does that totally defeat the purpose of going non-oxy??

Or will I still get the "benefits" of the non-oxy?

Thanks!

Hoffer

[Jim Almquist]

If you burn the gas up there is not too much of a problem. The real problem starts when the gas sits around and has a chance to start absorbing moisture and start separating. Maybe pour the jugs into the truck and fill with Non-oxy when you get up north. I would not want the oxy to sit in the tank of my boat all winter.

[PurpleFloyd]

What are you trying to prevent?

[Crappyfisherman]

If your going to use all the gas just get regular. The only reason to buy non oxy. is if you will store it over winter or you have a pre 1985 fuel system as it will eat the hoses and gaskets.Just add some Startron to the 87

[Hoffer]

So if I am running it all up there right away - then regular is Ok?

I am thinking what i will do instead is fill up here with regular. Also fill up 3 of my 5 five gallon plastic just with just regular.

Then fill up the last 2 with non-oxy.

I will run the regular up there and then when i am down to about 1/8 the last days or so...then fill the rest with the non-oxy I brought.

There is a chance I will burn the rest of the gas before I store the boat...but you never know. I would rather store it with the non oxy in there for sure.

[Crappyfisherman]

As long as its only 10% enthonal all newer motors will run fine on reg. gas. Its when you get into the E-85 that you run into problems. I use Startron to stabilize my gas. It works real good for me (2006 115 hp Yamaha 4 stroke)I change the water seperator evey 2 years and fill my tank before I store it.I used to use Seafoam but found out they put 10% alcohol

in it.You could also use Stabill Marine.My friend has the same motor as me and he just put reg. gas in his and it runs fine. I think he has been very lucky, to each his own.

[LMITOUT]

So if I am running it all up there right away - then regular is Ok?

I am thinking what i will do instead is fill up here with regular. Also fill up 3 of my 5 five gallon plastic just with just regular.

Then fill up the last 2 with non-oxy.

I will run the regular up there and then when i am down to about 1/8 the last days or so...then fill the rest with the non-oxy I brought.

There is a chance I will burn the rest of the gas before I store the boat...but you never know. I would rather store it with the non oxy in there for sure.

Looks like a good plan.

[Whoaru99]

Why ya wanna haul around all that dead weight? Going remote?

[Hoffer]

yeah...its an island up in Ontario. No resort or other gas around. Have to haul your own there.

Kind of a pain. My buddies have a Crestliner 1850 fish/ski with a big built in gas tank. They just fill that and they are good to go. Mine is only 17 gallons and I burn half of that on the trip up when weighted down.

So, I usually have to lug 5 or 6 five gallon gas tanks with. Usually go through about a fiver a day...

gonna be there 6 days. I am actually worried that 6 tanks wont be enough this year!

[WaveWacker]

As stated. As long as you are running, "regular" gas is enough. When you get close to the end, then I'd switch over to Non-oxy and also have some seafoam and/or marine stabil in with it.

[Superduty]

Check the owners manual of your outboard. A lot of todays outboards are designed to run on 87 octane. All the nonoxy I have found in MN is at least 91 octane. You are better off running the 97 and adding a stabilizer. Running the wrong octane can void a warranty.

[delcecchi]

I have never heard of a warranty problem from burning too HIGH octane gas. It might be a waste of money but I can't see how it could hurt your motor. I burned 91 in my 115 merc for 12 years and it was still running the same as when it was new.

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

Just to be clear, higher octane burns COOLER than lower octane gas, and will cause no damage or void any warranties.

[fishnowworknever]

Maybe this is not true, but I've heard that you're not supposed to mix non-oxy and regular with any type of gas+oil mix as the oil will mix more with one over the other...or something to that effect.

[Moose-Hunter]

Just to be clear, higher octane burns COOLER than lower octane gas, and will cause no damage or void any warranties.

After close to 35 years building engines... I can agree to this in part.

In a low compression engine, higher octane gas DOES burn cooler than a lower octane. However... In that a higher octane gas burns at a lower "temperature", it will also produce more by-products and thus lead to higher fouling rates of your plugs and various "coating" in your combustion chambers and on your pistons. So in essence, the gas itself does not cause damage. It's you engine's inability to completely/efficiently burn the higher octane gas that MAY lead to problems down the road... Or in this case, down the lake.

Engines are built/tuned to run on a specific grade or octane. Any deviation from this may lead to lower performance and possible damage. And of course, a lighter wallet. IMHO... Unless your engine already has problems, is "tuned" or you have a high compression set up... Running high octane (above 90 or so) when you don't need to is just throwing money away. Any HP gain is only imagined.

Before jumping down my throat... Re-read my post carefully. If you feel high octane gives you more "whatever"... Feel free to run what ever it is you'd like. Even the Sheik's need to send their kids to college.

[Moose-Hunter]

Maybe this is not true, but I've heard that you're not supposed to mix non-oxy and regular with any type of gas+oil mix as the oil will mix more with one over the other...or something to that effect.

Depending on alcohol content in the gas... mixing rates MAY be different. The addition of oil is what causes the issues.

Look at it this way... The by-product of burning alcohol (the "oxy" in the gas) is water. Does oil and water mix very well?

[Superduty]

It isn't necessarily a temperature issue when burning higher octane fuel. It has to do with the amount of time it takes the fuel to burn. You can end up with excess carbon buildup in the cyclinders from running the wrong fuel. The carbon can cause major issues over time. The newer direct injection 2 strokes are designed to run on a certain octane fuel. I know Merc and Yamaha are designed to run on 87. I believe the Evinrude's run on premium. Check your warranty if you don't believe me.

[SkunkedAgain]

All the nonoxy I have found in MN is at least 91 octane

There is indeed, lower octane non-oxy gas sold in Minnesota so be sure to understand if your motor just requires non-oxy or 91 octane. They sell 87 octane non-oxy gas on some of the bigger lakes.

[delcecchi]

I am aware of only one place that sells non-oxy less than 91 octane on Vermilion.

[uffdapete]

For what it's worth a friend who races snowmobiles forwarded me a few highlights from a 30+ page thread he found on a snowmobile forum:

Member's ask me about my back ground. I have a master's degree in chemistry and chemical engineering from Yale university, I hope this helps.

I’m still testing fuel additives so far twenty nine of them and most of them claim they stop phase separation but so far none of them have, like i said before non- ethanol gas is the way to go with some isopropyl in it for the summer, this ethanol dump is a very strong solvent in long term 90 days causes corrosion in metal parts of the engine, plastic parts of the fuel system it’s also very dry, on long term testing without running your engine over the summer it can cause disintegration of the fuel pump and fuel filters . "thank you EPA

There are a number of guys out there that run Isopropyl with Ethanol fuel, in my lab I have tested these two alcohols together. Fuel is made up of a combination of complex hydrocarbons then add 10% Ethanol, now add 3oz of Isopropyl to five gallons of E-10 gas. What we are now at is E-13 and when the two alcohols are mixed they solidify lubricating oils and fuel ingredients. That’s why i tell them to add oil to the fuel. Do i recommend adding the two alcohols together? No.

Do not store snowmobiles with ethanol in the tank over the summer no matter what anyone tells you.

Remember non-ethanol pump gas with some isopropyl will last 240 days were E-10 lasts about 90 days

The only thing i like so far with E-10 is marvel mystery oil.

I have been on a two year mission to find out what gas additives and fuel system product's work with E-10 gas after 75 product's I only recommend 3 product's.

NUMBER ONE- HYDROBURN, This product went the longest in a snowmobile test tank 375 day's and 0% water to 5 gallons of E-10.

NUMBER TWO- GASRX This product went 244 day's in a snowmobile test tank with a half an ounce water to 5 gallons of E-10

NUMBER THREE- OCTAPLUS This product went 221 day's in a snowmobile test tank and had 1 ounce of water to 5 gallons of E-10 gas.

A note about hydroburn use only for long term storage, DO NOT USE IT ALL THE TIME, It does contain strong solvent's, use GASRX any time you want.

PLASTIC CONTAINERS VS METAL LINED GAS CONTAINERS

Plastic containers in humid weather will cause phase separation with E-10 gas, Also during the heat of the day the plastic will expand and soften, And at night will build moisture inside the plastic container, Plus plastic containers will fail abruptly when exposed to a spark or a small fire.

Metal lined gas containers, gas will stay stable from hot to cold, They will not expand, soften or sag under high heat, And will pass a spark or small fire test, All race fuels are metal, 8% to 10% tin lead coating on the inside to protect from rust, moisture and keep gas stable.