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ice fishing reels


cabin

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Is there a decent ice fishing spinning reel for a reasonable price? I have bought the common brands ( Frabill, Ht, Genz etc), and they are junk. Anti-reverse and bail springs are the biggest problems. I have a basket full of ice reels with broken anti reverse and bail springs. Are they worthy trying to fix, or just disposable? I am willing to pay for a reel that lasts. Any ideas?

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Abu, 100/300/400/500 series, Shimanos, Pflugers,Tikas are all good reels that should last many years without problems....I run mainly Abu's since they are local and I get them cheap, but my 500 Shimanos are the oldest and show no signs of trouble....FYI I do nothing to my reels but use them and put new line on once a season....Several of my open water Shimano's are 15-18 years old and have been in the rain/snow/ice ect and never cleaned and still working flawless....

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I absolutely love shimanos, for open water that is...

Ive tried several of the new line of spinning reels (Sienna and Symetre) the past few seasons, both are silky smooth BUT try to use them outside below 32* and the drags get really stiff.

Pfluegers and Abus have been good to me for ice fishing use.

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When searching for reels, I try to look for the ones that are made of real aluminum. Not the plastic ones that have the shiny paint/stickers that peel after a season or two. I have had some of mine for 10+ years and still going strong. Just my opinion.....

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I like the smallest Pfleuger Trion or President. The Trion is cheaply designed and built compared to others so the clearances are greater which makes it fantastic for ice fishing. Also Pfluegers come with an extra spool whereas most ice reels do not.

Shimano makes great reels but I have the same reoccurring problem when using them in cold conditions. The roller bearing where the line comes into the spool is a very small clearance on Shimanos and it freezes up like crazy. I've had this happen or seen it happen to buddies on the Sienna, Sonora, Sedona, and even the Stradic FJ. When it's nice out or if you're in a warm fish house they work great, but outside in the cold it can be the most frustrating thing ever.

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Tica and Abu for me. I love the smaller size as they are so light. Drags are good and they seem like a well built reel for the money. The President model mentioned above is also a great reel but that will cost a bit more.

I am going to spend a few more bucks and go the the Shimano saros line.

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I owned pflueger patriarch xt, presidents, tica SE500, okuma, shimano 500 series; sahara, symetre amd sedona. After all these years I kept the shimano and tica's because their bearings and gears are smooth as the day i bought them. Sold the others b/c the gears started making noises--could have just been bad eggs.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
    • Blessed Christmas to all.  
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