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06 f-150 with a miss?


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Need some advice on a 06 F-150, 5.4 with 120K on it.

History, about 4 months ago I started having a stutter at about 2k rpms, above that it ran great, would never give off a code but it was getting to me. I searched online and all posts I had read said plugs. I took it in they felt the stutter, but couldn’t read anything during scanning and really weren’t sure where to start, I told them with the miles let’s just change the plugs ($700.00 ouch.) Great it’s running good again.

2 months go by and I’m leaving to go deer hunting for gun opener and it starts really running rough, but stops acting up after about 2 miles down the road. I needed to fill up so while at the station I buy a can of seafoam. Maybe bad gas I’m thinking. I pour it in the tank and go off on my way. No issues from Isanti to Alexandria area, Im thinking good this must have taken care of it. Well second day of the weekend I start it up ready to go to the woods and it starts acting up again but now it’s worse. Now I have a CEL flashing. I’m hunting I’ll deal with it after I get home. Well it kept running like this all weekend and actually seamed worse. Now 2 more days of this its time for me to get home, sense it’s on the way I stop into one of the auto parts store and see if they can scan it for me. Scan shows #1 cylinder misfire and coil something. Guy says its fairly common, so I buy a new coil and change it out in the parking lot. No difference and it codes again right away.

Alright I tried to fix it myself but now it’s off to someone who can figure it out. Only thing is on the way home that weekend it cleared itself up. Yeah the code was there but it wasn’t acting up other than the light being on. And that stopped after how many key cycles it took. So I was thinking the coil just may have needed to make a better contact and it finally had. Ok so 3-4 weeks go buy no issues and then it starts again. Exact same symptoms, except I do notice one thing I hadn’t previously. Now I notice that it stops running rough once the motor gets warm. It also seems to have on occasion a skip at idle while in gear at stops, not all the time but just sometimes.

Ok Ive got my info to tell my repair shop. They scan it and it’s the same code I got in Alexandria (we did clear it out there so this is all after I replaced the original coil) #1 cylinder again. They replace the coil with the more expensive of the 2 options NAPA offered (I bought the cheaper of the 2 options) and they wait until the next morning while the engine is cold to see if it will have the same symptoms I described to them. Next morning it runs great, they say come and get it. Great it seems to run good for me as well. THAT day!!!! Next morning I go start it up and the same thing, rough idle, goes away once warmed up. I run it up there right away, they scan it and same code AGAIN. They’re going to replace the coil again as they say it could be a bad coil again. If this doesn’t work they want to start checking wires to see if they can trace it back to the computer. But the thing is I looked at the harness. It looks like there is no way for it to be grounding out or get chaffed its looks to be in perfect condition. I’m just leery of this tracking it down process and want some opinions. Does this sound like the correct path to take? Any advice?

And to think I was ready to trade 5 months ago and didn’t, urggggggg

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There are plugs (that he replaced) but no plug wires running to them? shocked

That is correct. Many auto makers have gone to individual coils that mount directly over each plug that eliminate any plug wires. They look like this on a Ford.....

full-8254-17098-coil.jpg

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I would be suspecting a bad injector. What you could do is swap the right front injector with the second one back, so you would be swapping inj 1 and 2, the 2 front ones on the passenger side. Then see if the code moves to number 2, or stays with number 1. Also since this is a VCT engine, what does the oil look like? Is it balck, and thick?

I cant imaagine you have that many bad coils.

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If you have a valve cover leak check for the deep plug well filling with oil. That happened to our Plymonth van that has deep plug wells. It fill the well with oil and then cause arcing in the plug boot. When we changed plugs it dumped the oil down the plug hole and then ran fine for a few days and then the missing started all over again once it filled again. confused

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Check the actual connector where it plugs into the coil pack. Had a buddy with very similar problems. Turns out when the coil was replaced, they pulled on the wires too hard getting the coil out and one of the contacts slid back so it was intermittant on the connection. When it was cold, it was good, when it got warm, then it would miss.

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Sorry about the delay, was not able to get on yesterday. VIM#1FTPX14V66KC78176.

Wanderer, Ill admit I havent been the best about changing the oil over the last year. I was putting on around 16-1700 miles a week for the better part of 5 months and I wasnt about to change the oil every other week. Was usually changing it about every 2 months sometimes a little longer.

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Good news is, I was wrong this truck is not apart of the extended injector warranty, the Bad news is that there is an open safty recallon your truck for a vacuume harness, from the intake to the brake booster, that needs to be performed on your truck. This recall will not expire, and will be performed @ no charge to you, but you may get a list of sugested repairs....

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