gas line

[Tom7227]

First of all I would like to thank those that have responded to my questions. It sure helps to get quick advice.

The latest is the need to run a gas line to the new stove. Can I run it through the floor or do I have to tear up the wall and get it up a foot or so before I do the hookup?

Thanks again for your time.

Tom

[BoxMN]

Not gas guy here, but mine is coming up through the floor, and was when I bought the place.

[311Hemi]

Just installed one through the floor when I remodeled the kitchen a few years ago...but I did not have it inspected.

[frazwood]

I did this previously and I had it inspected by the city (i.e., I pulled a permit for a kitchen renovation). It was fine running through the floor. The inspector was particularly adamant that a shut-off valve be easily accessible... he wasn't too keen with my valve being in the basement (but accessible) even though the connection was in the kitchen (i.e., just above the basement) -- but he allowed that.

[Smoker]

There should be a shut off above the floor and alot of places want it to be secure so it won't move.

[Archerysniper]

Yes you can run it up through the floor just drill a hole down in the back corner opposite of were the gas hookup is on the stove install a valve and make a loop of the copper long enough so you can pull the stove out. Don't just through the anti-tip devise away either get it installed it can save a child's life.

[Smoker]

Up by us you need to use the flexable gas connector from the shut off to the stove. You will get hit on it if you use copper because copper will weaken if the stove is moved around to much.

[Tom7227]

Thank you gentlemen.

I'm tired enough today that if I was going to do it I think I might use the 12 gauge with a slug.

Just kidding, the 9mm should do the trick.

[Redlantern]

Like Arch said, through the floor is fine. If you use soft copper, it needs to be at least type "L". It's a thickness rating. If you use a flexible stainless connection, better make sure it has the UL rating on it and don't tear off that tag if you are getting inspected. The shutoff is required within five feet of the appliance so I install one there, but I also install one at the manifold where a person can actually get to it in an emergency. Flare fittings, absolutely NO compression fittings. Soap and water for testing, no open flames. You wouldn't believe how many nimrods do this so I figure I ought to mention it. If you aren't really confident in doing this yourself, hire it out to a licensed plumbing contractor.

[Tom7227]

Never ending.

I went to buy the line today and Menard's had one that had some sort of yellow flexible coating on it and a steel one that did not. Which one should I use?

[Redlantern]

.

[Tom7227]

Apparently no one wants to answer this one about the use of the coated vs non-coated line to the stove. What's the best product?

Top it off Fleet Farm had an ad in the paper Sunday showing some sort of flexible coated line that you can buy to run the feeder line through the basement. Anyone know if the code allows the use of this stuff and most importantly would you use it. Steel pipe is the preferred route for me but the other sure makes it simpler to get the line around the corners and up over the duct work.

Thanks for your time.

[Surface Tension]

The coated yellow copper tubing. Being yellow it says it is a natural gas or propane. The coating is also non corrosive. Yes you can use it or type L which is cheaper.

If you prefer black pipe and have a threader you can go that way.

Use sediment traps, and shutoffs at all appliances and flexible connectors to the stove

[Redlantern]

Tom, I already mentioned what I would use. I did not mention corrugated piping for a reason. I think it's junk. I'm very reluctant to give advice regarding gas piping over the internet for a couple of reasons. I can't see what you are talking about so my advice might be wrong if I misunderstand your description or you might misunderstand my explanation and install it differently than what I suggest. Either way, someone may get hurt. I take gas piping quite seriously.

[Archerysniper]

Tom, I already mentioned what I would use. I did not mention corrugated piping for a reason. I think it's junk. I'm very reluctant to give advice regarding gas piping over the internet for a couple of reasons. I can't see what you are talking about so my advice might be wrong if I misunderstand your description or you might misunderstand my explanation and install it differently than what I suggest. Either way, someone may get hurt. I take gas piping quite seriously.

+1

[Tom7227]

Thanks again. I haven't looked at the flexible stuff at FF but I am reluctant to use something that's new and that I don't have any experience with. Just because it's a little easier isn't enough to get me to use it. I don't have a pipe threader so I'm sure it will mean many visits to Ace to get it done but once it's in I know the black pipe will be good for years.

Tom

[Surface Tension]

Yeah not a lot of people have those tools laying around.

If you can get it laid out and take the list to the hardware store and find pre-cut and threaded lengths that will work without having to add couplers to make it work. Renting is an option and it'll be nice to have the clamp and stand on site.

Nothing wrong with copper and you see it used more often today because it is less time in labor.

I know nothing about the SS corrugated tubing

[Tom7227]

My dad and his family used to own a hardware store on Rice in Saint Paul and so I have done a share of cutting and threading. The smell of the cutting oil triggers a lot of memories. I've also spent time laying stuff out for the guys with the lists - can't find anyone to do that any more. Of course the problem is that you still only made $7 for the parts even after you spent an hour putting it all together on the floor to see if it worked the way the guy wanted.

[Redlantern]

I think Frattalone's in WBL will cut and thread pipe for you.