Power Pro questions

[Ed Carlson]

Well I was out fishing the other night and broke the line twice on hook sets. The first break I set the hook felt the fish for a second then snap it broke above the swivel. I just let that one go thinking maybe my knot was bad which was a polamor. So I retied and casted out again. Then I caught a Flat no problem. Next bite I had was a miss. Then I get another bite set the hook same as the first time felt the fish for a second snap. When I realed that on in I noticed saom fraying about where the swivel was. Anyone else have problems with fraying or just breaking for not much reason?? I wasnt useing a mono lead either so could that of been the problem with the first fish that broke off since there is no stretch?? What do you guys use for a lead line mono sam eline as you got on the reel and what pound test lead do you use?? I just put this power pro on. Before I put power pro on I used fire line and never haqd a problem with it breaking. But I have also never caught a reel large flat either. Any help to solve this problem would be great!!!

I recommend you test all the guides with a Q-tip and see if there are any snags or chips on any of the guides. Bad guides will scuff and weaken the line.

Also test the bail or roller bearing with the Q-Tip and if a baitcasting reel test the line guide for wear.

Superbraids age, and it is wise to shead some line from time to time, and to backspool the line to another reel once a year.

With heavy use in tough conditions about 1 year is a good life expectancy on most braids...longer if less heavily used. Cat'n is generally heavy wear use.

A very good line treatment for braids is the Ardent Line Butter, it really helps to get the most from your line and extends the life expectancy of the line significantly. Inspect your guides often, they are very often the culprit to diminished life expectancy of any line.

[rushing]

Ed brings up a good point about guides and line life. Also not all guides are created equal, some are kinder to line than others. I have stared using Reel magic on my line. Mostly because of my one complaint about PP is that the coating comes off and makes such a mess, reel magic has helped alot with that.

[Gordie]

a few things that I do to try and reduce the breakage are check line frequently,spray with reelmajic,check my guides but not nearly enough thanks for the reminder Ed,take a bit of extra time tying knots and alway use plastic beads inbetween the swivel and the sinker. The greatest line in the world cant take the abuse of 5 or a 6 ounce no roll slamming into the knot repeatly somethings got give and I bet money it wont be the sinker..

I do not use Power pro but I do this with all line that I use BTW I use 80lb fusion and 65lb tuff line and to date the tuff line has pulled in my two biggest flats

[MinnesnowtaWild]

Gordie is the Fusion the neon colored stuff you had at last years gathering?

[Shack]

I may worry too much, but I always check my No-Rolls & bank sinkers for burrs. Even check them if I get them back after being hung up. Although starting this year I have found plastic weight gliders with extra large snaps. If at all possible I like to have no contact with my braid and lead. Plus I like to remove the weight when the line is not in the water. Mainly for travel to & from the river, but also for storage & mainly while in the vertical rod holder while the boats underway. I just can not stand seeing the weight bang into the rod and I am sure it does not do the line any good. On flip-side, No Rolls are just so cool to use.

I know this does not apply to Dtro's experiences, but could the "line breakage" upon hookset be knot failure?

I use Power Pro and have not had any sudden failures I could not have a reasonable explanation for. IMO once broke in, pretty good line. Not opposed to Sufix. Actually the last two times I have purchased heavy braid I went with the mindset of purchasing Sufix. Both times they were out of stock.

The one brand of heavy braid I have had line breakage above the swivel knot is the Cabelas brand braid. I gave it such a chance and even have one of my back up rods spooled with it. This is the High Vis. black & yellow stuff.

[harvey lee]

Shack, yes the no rolls are tough on the line. That weight banging on the rod in the same spot for an extended period is also bad for the rod blank.

[Loose]

But, does your buddy have issues now that he installed Suffix?

Since all he did was change his line.

He hasnt hooked into a nice fish yet, time will tell.

[MinnesnowtaWild]

I have been trying to think of a way to stop no-rolls from chewing up my line. I tried sinker slides but they didn't work well for me. Today I tried drilling the hole out a little larger through the no-roll so I could insert plastic coffee straws in them but I couldn't successfully drill through the lead.

Those no-rolls definitely do a number on my line going in and out of the car, carrying out to the river, and casting. I usually cut off a couple yards and retie before I go fishing again but doing this multiple times a week really wears down the amount of line I have on my spool.

[Scott K]

Lol..

[bobbymalone]

i thread some big arse berkley big game mono through the hole in the no-roll, stick a bead on there, and then thread it back through the hole. The bead keeps the sinker from slipping off the line. Tie a loop on the other end and then hook that loop on to the sinker slide. Does that make sense?

it's either a direct rip-off or a modification of something somebody else posted on here a long time ago, I can't remember.

[rushing]

Today I tried drilling the hole out a little larger through the no-roll so I could insert plastic coffee straws in them but I couldn't successfully drill through the lead.

You couldn't drill through lead?

[Ed Carlson]

The greatest line in the world cant take the abuse of 5 or a 6 ounce no roll slamming into the knot repeatably somethings got give and I bet money it wont be the sinker..

A very Good point... and I'll share a tip that will fix that issue.

For years I have used a shock absorber between my no-roll sinker to protect the knot from wear from the weight.

I generally use a #3 or #5 barrel swivel to my leader/hook....and just above that I insert a 1" to 2" piece of aquarium tubing....and a large plastic bead on top..then my weight.

The tubing protects the knot and the tube fits tightly to the barrel of the swivel...and the lead beats on the bead...the tube absorbed the abuse. I also feel this rig can often help to pop free of snags....this bumper effect pops the lead free when you bang on the line.

Just Take a side cutters and shear up a handful of the tube shock absorbers from a section of aquarium hose, and you will loose less rigs to weight wear.

[MinnesnowtaWild]

You couldn't drill through lead?

Nope the electric drill I was using sucked...the drill bit kept getting stuck inside the sinker. I will have to bust out my drill press.

[Gordie]

Gordie is the Fusion the neon colored stuff you had at last years gathering?

Yes it is

Thats a great idea Ed thanks I will be givein it a whirl

Cant drill thru lead now thats funny right there

[ec30_06]

It's like I've been saying for years, PP sucks on the mn river. I have been using suffix since it came out.

[Ed Carlson]

Elwood you can take that trick one step further if you wish to tinker....and got a good drill handy.

On the 5 and 6 oz No Rolls, you got lead and thickness to play with. Drill them out, and pull through the tubing inside the lead, now it has a internal sleeve to protect all the line it rids on.

I would still allow for some tubing to poke out the back to also protect the knot...get my drift bud?

[Scott K]

Just a thought, wouldnt the braided line just put a slice into the rubber tubing and cause it to stick?

[Scott K]

I have to honestly say, I really dont have any issues with the no rolls doing damge to my line at all, or the knots. I put the no roll on, then tie a swivel on then a leader and hook. This will usually last a good month, if not longer, before I see any damge to my line. When I snag my line, the leader will always break off, and the main line stays strong. I dont use a bead, or any other trinkets, just weight, swivel, leader, hook. I had my main pole last all of last year with out cutting any line off due to wear. I did replace my line this spring, but it was 3 years old, just maintenance.

I will monitor my line, and I will re-tie if and when needed, but it is very seldom, and sure wouldnt bother changing, or adding things to my line, to try to change what I am doing.

[Ed Carlson]

Just a thought, wouldnt the braided line just put a slice into the rubber tubing and cause it to stick?

I run mainly #65 Power Pro, or FireLine Tracer Braid in the same test weight, and it has not chewed through the tubing so far.

I have seen the super braid cut through the plastic weight slides, as in the Team Catfish weight shuttles. You can add a silicone bumper behind them and up against the swivel to to help that problem out too.

[MinnesnowtaWild]

I have to honestly say, I really dont have any issues with the no rolls doing damge to my line at all, or the knots. I put the no roll on, then tie a swivel on then a leader and hook. This will usually last a good month, if not longer, before I see any damge to my line. When I snag my line, the leader will always break off, and the main line stays strong. I dont use a bead, or any other trinkets, just weight, swivel, leader, hook. I had my main pole last all of last year with out cutting any line off due to wear. I did replace my line this spring, but it was 3 years old, just maintenance.

I will monitor my line, and I will re-tie if and when needed, but it is very seldom, and sure wouldnt bother changing, or adding things to my line, to try to change what I am doing.

My line might be getting banged up from transportation as well. I keep the sinker as high up to the tip as possible when it goes in and out of the car and house, so that line is rubbing tight against the top eyelet.

[Scott M]

At least this Ford Chevy debate brought up some other good points (checking guides, not setting the hook too aggressively on a no-stretch braid, checking line for nicks). I'm like Larry; I've been using PP for years without a problem. Then again, I don't get 5-6 nights a week out on the water either. I will give Suffix a try the next time I buy. I think the Hi Viz stuff is the way to go on the river, but I'm still using my PP muskie line.

I was taught by an old muskie guide to get the largest diameter stuff you can get, so I bought 100# PP. Do you need 100# PP on the river or for flats? No. But the trick is, if you do a lot of casting, like you do when muskie fishing, you won't get the bad rat's nest backlashes because the bigger diameter line won't let line cut into the spool as bad. When I was getting used to the heavy gear and baitcasting rods when I started muskie fishing, when I switched from 50# to 100#, I found the guy was right. So today when I'm throwing 100# PP with the larger diameter, I haven't noticed any problems with breakoffs, probably because I'm way overloaded as far as line breaking strength.

These discussions go back and forth. Hooks, rods, weight mold styles, line, boats...everybody's got an opinion. Find what you like or go with many. Don't be too stubborn to change your mind either.

[hanson]

Food for thought here... lot of guys who were having "issues" with PowerPro were fishing 65lb or 50lb line. They then switched to Sufix 80lb and have had no "issues". So was it the line test or the brand?? Hmmmm.... tough to compare since all the variables were switched.

Personally, I started out with 50lb PP 6-7 years ago and snapped it left and right on hooksets. Since moving to 80lb PP, I have never, ever, EVER had an issue with the line. Some of my line has been used over multiple years as well and I'm currently casting muskies with it as well.

Not that it matters but it seams those who are new to the sport struggling to catch fish blame it on the line, then we'll blame it on the hooks, then circle vs j-hooks, then onto how we hook the bait, etc, etc.

I'm not saying line won't snap but I've got 30-40 yards out into the river snagged up and I've got it wrapped around my bait net handle to get a good tug on it and I'm afraid I'm going to pull my boat off anchor sometimes. I've fallen [PoorWordUsage] over tea kettle into the boat when the line finally gives as well. Say what you will, I see no reason to switch lines after 6-7 years of using 80lb Power Pro.

[harvey lee]

Thats makes some sense Chris. I switched after I broke of on a sturg with brand new 65# PP.

Drag was set but firm and the rod was brand new as I built it for the trip.

I had broken off before and I blamed it on nicked line and about everything else but the line.

After the new line and new rod, that was it for me. I have also used a wood handle to break the line and could not and ended up bending a hook.

I guess I simply had a few bad spots in the line. I do not know what else it could have been and now really does not matter.

At the cost of braided line, I would not respooled 5 abu reels if I believed it was ok.

[MinnesnowtaWild]

I've used 80 lb PP and 80 lb Suffix and it was pretty obvious to me that the Suffix was the stronger and better line. The limper line and easier to tie and tighter knots were what did it for me.

But I guess it's just a personal preference.

[hanson]

I have also used a wood handle to break the line and could not and ended up bending a hook.

Speaking of bending hooks... is the line really the problem when you can half straighten a 10/0 Gammi when intentionally trying to break the line??? Its unbelievable when you think of it.

So why does line break when you don't want it to, but you can't snap the stuff when you do want to break it? This is one of those deep thoughts on a dark night deals...