chuckwagon Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 What is a common set up for running deep to medium crank baits for bass? Rod ... action and rating, reel ... spin or caster, and line ... weight and diameter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritsnham Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 I started using a 7' MH moderate action with a 6.4:1 gear ration reel spooled with 15lb floro. I love it for just about any cranking application I have tried so far shallow runners to deep runners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigums Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 chuckwagon I don't want to hijack your thread but I also have a question......How many of you guys use braid for cranking? Ive got a 6'8'' Medium action rod that I mainly throw spinnerbaits on, It currently has 15lb mono on there but I was thinking about switching it over to 20lb braid and using it for shallow and medium diving cranks also, what do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cecil Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 i would be careful with braid on shallow-med cranks. You will have short line most of the time and that is even less stretch than on a regular crank that you cast out as far as you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurnUpTheFishing Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 Rod, I prefer graphite to fiberglass. I hate not being able to rip weeds and junk free of my bait with a whippy glass rod. Id say 7' MH power and moderate action would be a great all around bass cranking rod.Reels, I go with the 5:1 but a 6:1 ratio would get it done too but may wear you out if you throwing big deep runners all day. Id say stay away from 7:1 ratios for lipped cranks.Line, Im old fashioned 10 lb copolymer for me but fluoro is a good choice too. Im really am not a fan of braid on cranking rods. No stretch can result in lost fish when hooks tear out plus I hate using thin braid on baitcasters and Id never crank with 50lb + braid.My setup is this. A graphite, Heavy power, moderate action rod, 5:1 baitcaster, and 10 lb copoly. I like the Heavy power rod for ripping baits free of weeds and debri. The moderate action combined with the stretch of the 10 lb copolymer line helps me keep from ripping hooks out on the initial hookset and keep lightly fish hooked while they make runs on me. The 5:1 gear ratio makes it easier on me to throw big deep diving lures. This setup I use mostly for deep cranks but have used it a bunch for shallower diving baits without any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Off Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 I agree with most of what has been posted. My own preference is 7' MH e-glass cranking rod with 5.2:1 baitcaster and 12# flouro. I go with the 12 because I really wind up and toss those big cranks and I'm afraid that 10 might snap on the cast.I do pretty much the same on medium depth cranks but use 6'6" stick and 6.2:1 reel with 10# test. No need to toss as far and baits not generally as heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckwagon Posted June 15, 2010 Author Share Posted June 15, 2010 thanks all for the information I have a lot to go off now when I choose my cranking rod! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RK Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Hiya - For medium to deep divers (DT-6, -10, and -16, Strike King Series 5, etc.,) I use a 7'11" MH-Mod rod, a low gear ratio reel (either a Revo Winch or an old Lews BB-1NG) and 12# fluoro. I like the longer rod for making long casts, and I think I lose fewer fish with a long parabolic rod.TUTF - I use braid for cranking sometimes in August and September when I'm cranking really thick coontail edges. You can sometimes break even 12# fluoro trying to haul a bait out of the coon, plus you end up dragging weeds back a lot because the fluoro stretches too much to snap them off. But with the braid you can snap weeds off and not waste a cast. Have to have the right rod for it though - I use a glass rod, but a glass/graphite composite would be good too. Too fast a rod and you'll loose fish. Even at that have to be careful with the lack of stretch. I use a low gear ratio reel too - an old Curado 3.8:1. Keeps me from over-cranking when I'm fighting a fish, plus slows down my retrieve so I can walk baits through the weeds better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cecil Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 I also use a low gear ratio reel for most crankin. However, I just set up a rod and reel with a higher speed reel and cranking rod. A LOT of the elite guys are starting to see the benefits of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 My cranking set up is a 7'MH moderate fast action with a 5:1 reel and 12 pound mono. I really like this set-up for mid depth divers like DT 10 and 6 but it can handle shallow and deep divers just fine too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bemidjibasser Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 My newest cranking rod is an 8' Castaway that I built with micro alconite guides spiral wrapped. It weighs under 3 ounces complete and is listed as a mhm, but fishes more like a mm to me. Lots of flex way down the blank, but the butt end is powerful. I paired it with a super tuned team daiwa advantage in 6.3 to 1. Love it so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiseforever Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 I tried some deep water cranking last year. The gears in my 5600 C-3 stripped out after a day or so. Has any one else had this happen? My old 5600s just keep purrring along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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