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diesel utility tractors?


lawdog

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After this blizzard kicked my tail I'm thinking about trading the skid loader for a tractor with blower. Need a big one. My dad has a John Deere 4100 utility tractor with the 3 cyl yanmar diesel and a 47" two stage blower. Nice machine I brought it here and finished up my yard after this storm. My question for you guys is this: I've never had anything diesel. His is in a heated/insulated garage all winter and runs fine. I don't have a heated or insulated garage. Do I need stick with a gas unit or what will I need to do to keep the diesel operating in weather like this, its down below zero here now...

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I've had a John Deere 2010, a Kubota L4330 and now a Kubota M6040.

20 hp, 40 hp and 60 hp respectively.

They've always all started, the Kubotas we use for hauling logs out of the woods offsite, and all have started even at -20 without being inside or plugging them in.

You won't have any problems.

My 2 Kubotas also have a cab with heat and air, which is a real blessing when running the blower.

I've got a 74" blower on the back of the M6040 that I use to blow snowpiles back.

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Make sure you have winter blend diesel, maybe use an additive for insurance and you'll be fine. If you have a place to plug it in a few hours before use, it will start easier and run better.

I would get something like that if I had a large enough job for it. I love my diesels.

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Just .ike others said, use blended fuiel and add additives if needed.

I also have always handy a 5 gallons can of kerosene (same as #1 diesel) in wintertime to mix to the diesel of my skidsteer. I've been running it at well below -30 and no problem whatsoever.

If you can plug engine it will start easier, then good fuel flow is a must to run during cold months.

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Lawdog, what kind of skidsteer do you have? I bet on our farm the hour meter is 4 to 1, skidsteer vs utility tractor, we get MUCH more use out of the skidsteer and would be hard pressed to get rid of one.

If your skidsteer is big enough, have you ever checked out a snowblower attachment for them? Might be something to look at.

Just had a friend trade off his New Holland utility tractor and all the attachments for a skidsteer with a few attachments, he's got a small hobby farm and could get more use out of a skidsteer instead.

Mike

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I have a tiny skid loader, Case 1816C, about the smallest there is. 20 horse gas motor and a 40" bucket. From what I've seen you are talking 15-20K to get into a skid that can run a blower then another 2000 for the blower. Not feasible...

I have used the skid loader a lot and its handy to have, but it just can't handle a big snow like we just had.

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If you keep winter blend fuel in your machine, and have a good battery you shouldn't have too much trouble. I plug mine into a timer on the nights when it snows so the block heater is on for about 2 - 3 hours, and it works great.

If you put a blower on your skid loader make sure it is matched to your machine. You have to consider horse power, flow rate, and flow pressure of your hydraulic fluid. If your get it set up properly you will love it.

I bought a used blower to put on my Bobcat 773 (46 H.P). It didn't work right at first, but after a little research, I ended up putting larger diameter hydraulic hoses on it. It works much better now. My local Bobcat dealer was a huge help getting me set up correctly. The hydraulic motor on the blower is not the ideal one for my skidloader but it is close. I can throw snow about 25 to 30 feet.

You will not throw snow as far with a hydraulic driven blower as you can with a PTO driven blower. In my opinion being able to move forward, and see what you are doing without looking over your shoulder is a much easier way to move snow and having a cab, and not throwing 50% of the snow down the neck of my coat is a real bonus.

I live on a small acreage, and since the Wednesday before Christmas I have spent over 16 hours in the seat trying to get everthing cleared out.

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Not to hijack the thread, but for others reading along, another way to look at it, is that with a tractor, not only will a PTO blower throw better than a comparable HP hydraulic blower, but a tractor allows you to have a bucket on the front and blower on the rear.

With mirrors, you don't have to turn around like a skidsteer, just watch the mirrors.

You also have a bucket already on the piece of equipment to break up piles or stack other piles if need be.

I spent 20 hours last week blowing snowpiles out of parking lots.

I would break up the frozen piles with the bucket, then turn around and blow the piles out of the parking lot.

Unless you were using a Lorenz snowblower (has teeth on the auger) you would never get a blower to just chew through the frozen slush piles unless you broke them up with the bucket first.

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Just .ike others said, use blended fuiel and add additives if needed.

I also have always handy a 5 gallons can of kerosene (same as #1 diesel) in wintertime to mix to the diesel of my skidsteer. I've been running it at well below -30 and no problem whatsoever.

If you can plug engine it will start easier, then good fuel flow is a must to run during cold months.

#1 diesel and kerosene are not the same thing. The difference between them is like the difference between #2 and #1 diesel. As crude oil is refined there are many different substances created depending on the point in the refining process. The following fuels are progressively thinner, becoming less like oils and more like gases.

#2 diesel -

This is the heaviest of the four. It provides the best lubricating quality. It has the highest BTUs per gallon rating. It has the highest boiling point therefore it is the most stable but also the first to gel as the temperature drops.

#1 diesel -

Lighter than #2. Less lubricating quality. Lower BTU per gallon output. Lower boiling boiling point than #2 so it is less stable and has a lower gel point.

Kerosene -

Lighter than #1 diesel. Less lubricating quality. Lower BTU per gallon. Lower boiling point. Less stable. Lower gel point.

Gasoline -

Lighter than Kerosene. Less lubricating quality. Lower BTU per gallon. Lower boiling point. Less stable. Lower gel point.

If you run kerosene in your diesel engine regularly, I would expect your mechanic will get to know you on a first-name basis and your engine and injector pump life will probably suffer. It will work in your engine but because it has a lower flash point, your engine is probably experiencing some pre-ignition. I know I could hear the difference in my old 6.9L when I ran #1 in the winter compared to #2. Think of it this way. What would happen if you ran gasoline in your diesel engine? Kerosene falls between #1 diesel and gasoline.

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Not to hijack the thread, but for others reading along, another way to look at it, is that with a tractor, not only will a PTO blower throw better than a comparable HP hydraulic blower, but a tractor allows you to have a bucket on the front and blower on the rear.

With mirrors, you don't have to turn around like a skidsteer, just watch the mirrors.

You also have a bucket already on the piece of equipment to break up piles or stack other piles if need be.

I spent 20 hours last week blowing snowpiles out of parking lots.

I would break up the frozen piles with the bucket, then turn around and blow the piles out of the parking lot.

Unless you were using a Lorenz snowblower (has teeth on the auger) you would never get a blower to just chew through the frozen slush piles unless you broke them up with the bucket first.

I was gonna say the same thing about needing a bucket as well as the blower. LwnmwnMan2 said it well.

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