Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Finally starting my '09 fish house project!


SapperACE

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 218
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My last house was 6.5x12. It weighed about 2600#. I really wanted an 8' wide house so thats why I sold it. It was a really nice house though. This new one is 8' wide and has a 3' V to boot.

Thanks. I am looking into different materials that would make it lighter. I am in the process of building a 8'X16' with 4'v-front.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exactly elkrivermn. The reason I always do clear poly is because it brings out the knots and wood grain, but it maintains a natural "pine" color. If you like darker wood, you can stain it. It's all adout what you like. I have seen guys do red cedar stain on knotty pine and it makes it look like cedar. I really like the natural pine look myself though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got the house home today from the spray foamer. I thought it turned out really good. It's nothing pretty, but it is rock solid! You'll never see it anyway. It cost about $275. I was very pleased with H.I.S. Foam. They are out of Mankato and they treated me well. They got my house done really quick, and I thought the cost seemed fair.

I'm sorry about the picture quality. It was night when I took them, and I'm no photographer.

DSC00066.jpgDSC00065.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My brother is having them come to spray a crawl space and 300' of under ground water lines. I have someone that will spray my house for $750, but then I have to get it there and back and I thought if the price was fair I would have them do it, save the hassel of moving. I have one arm in a cast for another 2 weeks, so the house project is moving slowly. I have been able to spend alot of money getting most of the things I need or lined up so when I can go it going to go fast. They have done work in the past for us, but when I called about spraying this house, they said over $1100 for a 8.5x12 with 3' v, I thought that was alittle much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a good price for the foaming job. You will now have a warm floor with the added benefit of no road salt coroding the underside of your trailer. By his reply it sounds like he either thinks it is alot or a good deal. If you bought the pink board insulation, and another layer of plywood and something to protect the trailer from rusting i would venture to say it would cost around the same. Great decision to have it spray foamed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Kevfish1, Hawkeye had me wondering.

Like I said, I thought it seemed pretty fair. I didn't do alot of checking, but this place was the cheapest most convienient one I found in my area. Fish houses can be tough for these guys to do. It is messy and it takes alot of work to set up and clean their equipment. That figures into the cost alot I think. Anyway, I was very happy with H.I.S. Foam, and like Kevfish said, once you figured out the cost of pink foam, plywood, something to undercoat the frame, and my time, it seemed worth it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I been down the road before with spray foam. You should do the bottom before the house is built and build the walls, panel the walls, wire and everything else, then spray from the outside. The clean up is much easier for everyone. I know that doesn't work for all people. I will see what they will charge me on Wed. when they come

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The method of fish house construction you mentioned, hawkeye, works great if you have a place indoors to build your house, and have the foam guy come to you. Every foamer I talked to has a minimum fee just to set up their equipment, then they charge you for the foam on top of that. Thats why I had no choice but to do it like I did and take the house to the foamer. You should talk to your foamer. I bet if you took your house to a jobsite where he already has his equipment set up, it will save you a ton.

Also, contractors I know don't build homes by sheetrocking the inside walls, then insulating, then wiring, then plumbing, and then finally sheeting the outside walls and putting on the siding! I realize they don't have a roof over their heads to allow them to do that, but they figure it out. If you know how to use a tape measure, wiring a fish house is never a problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey hawkeye i know a guy in your area that has built a few the way you mention----I built a house last year and was going to do it that way but was hesitant because of the travel to the foam company. Also i figured i would be more apt to want to change the interior than the siding so i went and sided it before the foam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to cross brace it with 2x2 to hold everything straight, just like you would do when you build a house. The foam company said they would take them off and once its foamed there isn't a chance it will shift. I also weld 3" bolts to the frame and drill holes thought the plywood so the bottom plate can be bolted to the frame. I have seen screws pull out of the frame that went thought the plate and the plywood, when that happens then you got your work cut out for youself. Once I get my hand out of this cast and moving again I will start posting pic. as we start building. The only thing I have to get is the cargo door with the entry door in it yet, other than that I have a big pile of a house sitting there. I have been drawing on the floor where I want things and what might get moved yet. The foam company already did the underside of the house last week when they did another project for my brother. They tipped the frame up its side, and done. $125 was the cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry I have not posted new pics in a while. I had some vehicle troubles which has set me back a bit $$$!!! I hope to get rolling on it again soon. I look to really kick into gear mid september at the latest. I will start posting pics again as soon as I do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry I have not posted new pics in a while. I had some vehicle troubles which has set me back a bit $$$!!! I hope to get rolling on it again soon. I look to really kick into gear mid september at the latest. I will start posting pics again as soon as I do.

Did you get the trans rebuilt, or purchase a re-manned one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I traded up for a different truck triple B. Hated to do it, but what can you do?

Now I just returned from an unsucessful archery elk hunt in Colorado, which I had the tag bought before the truck trouble. Still had alot of fun. That killed alot of time and $$$ though too.

Hopefully I can get to work on the house finally, and have few additional setbacks! Ice is coming!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a couple questions as I am looking to build another wheelhouse.

1.) Did you use any metal strapping to help secure and stabilize the framed walls?

2.) Did you use fiberglass in the ceiling or sheet foam?

3.) I am planning on building a 6.5'x12' house with a 3' v. Do you suggest 2x2 or 2x3 walls.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.