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Finally starting my '09 fish house project!


SapperACE

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your t&g still holding up, any signs of warping yet? one of my houses from last year is smooth and tight but that problem one is getting worse every time they fish in it. we are tearing it out on monday and trying something else. just don't get how two fairly similar houses can be so different. hope yours is still looking good.

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So far so good duckie. I havn't noticed any warping at all. I'm hoping that the glue and the air gap between the outside studs is the trick that will help the stuff hold up. I also think that the horizontal installation will help as well.

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SapperACE

Im new to this site but have read this thread twice now as we are in the process of building our first ever house. I appreciate the way you have kept us updated and we are using a lot of the suggestions you and others have made here.

I was really interested in your idea that involved some sort of outside light coming on when a rattle reel was triggered. If you run into some extra time I was wondering if you could shed a little more insight into how you went about this process?

Thanks

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wstnodak,

In the scramble of getting this thing ready for this season, I did not complete the "auto pilot" as we like to call it down her in the southwest. I'm planning on doing that before next season, although i'm not sure how i'll do it yet. I also have to get the stereo and some other 12v accessories in this summer.

I do have a couple of buddies that have done auto pilot a couple of different ways though. I'll try to get some pics the next time i'm in their houses and post them for you.

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That was actually one of my concerns when I opted for this frame. If you look back on page 3 of this thread, however, you will see how high the house is up off of the ground when in the upright position. In my opinion, it will be no different than when you have to change a tire on any other kind of trailer. You will have to jack it up to do it.

Of course we all know that on a conventional fish house frame with the wheels outside, you can just set the house down and change the tire just like that. Easier, yes, but I guess thats the trade off. Hopefully I'll never have to change a flat on the side of the road when its -10.

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OK. Started on the next set of fish houses & wondering if your t&g groove is still looking good. If so I am gonna go with your furring strip, air space, vertical run, & glue idea. I would greatly appreciate an end of season update if you would have time or u can drop me an email if you wanna instead, [email protected]

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Lip Ripper,

I have definately been satisfied with my frame. It has worked really well raising and lowering, and the thing goes down the road like a champ! Made a trip to Red and a Trip to Winnie. Total, I suppose I have put 1000 miles or so on the trailer. I would recommend them to anyone. The best frame for the $$$ in my opinion.

Duckie,

So far so good with the T&G. It's holding up really well.

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I did my T&G similar to slapper except I put insulation between the furring strips and have no air gap. I just pin nailed it on and did not use glue. Just made one trip with it so far. No moisture or warping issues so far....In my opinion the steel studs and furring strips run horizontally are the best way to go

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When you pull up to a spot to fish, can you drill holes with the house up (to keep slush out), and then set it straight down on the holes? How high from the top of the ice to the top of the floor? It looks like about 6" or so.

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Couple questions for you, I'm finishing out a 7x14 trailer very much the same, using the T&G pine. How did you make the cabinet doors? Was it pretty easy using pine boards and a a router and then just fitting everything together? Why are the rattle reels at ceiling height, just to get them out of the way on the floor? You also mentioned you are using the mattresses from FHS, are they pretty nice? I've looked elsewhere, but I really can't find anything small enough to fit in the house, most mattresses are too big. Also, have you had any of your T&G shift when trailering?

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Alot easier on the eyes and the back when your rattle reels are at a eye height or better. No need to bend down all the time 2 release some line when fish bites. That and alot less of a tripping hazard when there mounted high. Keep stuff outta the way.

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Frigid holes,

When I drill my holes, I just set the house down on the ice and drill them. I get a little bit of ice inside, but I clean it up as best as I can and the furnace quickly takes care of the rest. You were right about the height off the ice. It is about 6" up.

Garvdog,

The doors, how I made them anyway, are pretty simple if you have a table saw and a miter box. I first miter all of the 1x2's to make the outside frame. I then take each individual peice I just mitered and make a groove with the table saw that the t&g will fit into. I do this by setting the table saw blade as high as the t&g is thick and the fence of the saw as far away from the blade as you want the t&g overlap on each side. You then set the height and the fence to finish out your groove. I then glue and nail the outside frames together. Lastly, I put glue in my groove I made with the table saw and glue the t&g pieces in. Simple as that. I'll try to post some pictures if I think about it. This is a pretty primative way to put doors together, but it's the best I can do with the tools I have.

The rattle reels are where they are for a few of reasons, and BucksnDucks pretty much nailed the biggest ones. All a rattle reel has to do is hold line, and tell you when you have a fish, so they really don't need to be at waist level. Also, when they're high up, you don't have to worry about whacking one with the auger, or your drunk buddies elbow. The biggest thing is the line thing like Bucks said. Its nice to be able to see the line move, and be able to dump line quickly when you get a hit (like from the top bunk at 3 am). To top it all off, its a clean look that I like. I hate those reels on hinges that alot of guys use. They look chincy to me.

The matresses are very nice and pretty darn comfy too! They were a little spendy, but you won't find matresses or foam much cheaper anywhere else, especially those sizes like you said. Best of all, FHS is a great store with awesome service, and they will get them to you quick.

lastly Garvdog, The t&g is holding up great so far. No problems yet from shifting or moisture. This is a steel studded shell so I think it sould be a bit more solid than a wood studded house.

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I put my rattle reels up high also. When you go to set the hook you don't zing a bunch of line off the spool like when I had them at waist level. You can re-bait quicker not having to untangle way more line than needed.

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Frigid Holes,

Congrats man! You won't be disappointed. Shoot me an email if you want to. I have some info about your frame to share with you if you'd like. My email address is in the top post on page 12 of this thread.

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Sapper,

Couple more questions for you:

How many coats of polyurethane did you put on the knotty pine? Did you sand in between coats if you did multiple coats? I see some of the ice castles look like the knotty pine is unfinished, but I would think that would get dirty fairly quickly.

Thanks a bunch.

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I just bought a 6.5x12 custom made King Crow style house and am looking at putting an additional bunk in above the one existing bunk. What did you use to frame out the upper bunk with the chain supports? 2x3's or 2x4's?

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