Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
ice_it_06

First Time ATV Buyer Help

26 posts in this topic

Looking to get a used 4 X 4 for ice fishing (pulling 1,800 house) and light plowing.

Never owned a ATV before so I'm not sure of what make or model best fits the bill. EFI or not, IS or not (been told no for pulling/towing)

Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki are of those in my mind. Should I be looking @ 500 cc and up ?

Any thoughts and recommendations greatly appreciated.

Looking @ a $3,000 budget and what to look out for in a used purchase.

Many popping up for sale now day's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Straight forward, the best bang for the buck would be a Solid Rear Axle (SRA) machine like the Kawasaki Brute Force 650. Tons of power, SRA, good 4x4 system.

Another good option would be a Polaris SP500. Although it is an IRS machine, there's after market products out there to absorb the tongue weight of a large wheel house and the machine is only pulling the house, not supporting the tongue weight. The downside to the product I'm thinking (I can't recall the name) is you almost need little to NO SNOW in order for it to work properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really look over a used machine. ATVs are notoriously abused and so you'll want to be cautious with used machinery. Some dealers may offer a 30 day warranty if they go through them.

Check the joint boots, brakes, final drives for damage.

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had gotten same advice from Friends like BobT is advising. But due to the fact of too much Uncertainty, I decided to Buy new. Now I will be the first to admit I don't know what is best for the use you are descibing.

I do know that Yamaha is running some super deals right now on getting an ATV . No matter if you are looking at 350 up to the 750. I have no doubt the others do to. I would look at their programs and see if the financing is something that you might be able to swing to get a new Machine with a warranty.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lep, is that something that goes on the fish house?

"hooks"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you are going to do any trail riding or snow riding or mudding i would get a irs i have a 2006 arctic cat 400 irs it will pull anything but i need to crank my suspension up all the way same thing with my 08 king quad 750

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lep, is that something that goes on the fish house?

"hooks"

It's like a 2 wheel dollie with a ball hitch on it and a hitch that connects to your ATV. My brother in law has one and I can't think for the life of me what it's called. I have to step away from the computer for a couple hours but will do some searching when I get back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually was looking @ a New 650 Brute Force (Camo)4X4 Solid Axle with full 1 year warranty for $5,600.. Just not sure if that is a good deal, or if I want to drop another 3g in financing just for a ice fishing rig. confused

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 1800 pound fish house won't be the problem. It's the tongue weight that is the problem. A solid rear axle has the hitch mounted on the axle, A machine with IRS has the hitch mounted to the frame so the weight goes to the suspension then the axle. Any machine bigger than about a 350 will have enough power. That's not even an issue. Either way the tongue weight is probably more than the machine is rated for. But that wouldn't stop me. These things are tough. There is a clamp on device you can use on an IRS machine to lock out the rear suspension and make the springs solid to handle more weight. The dollie that LEP is talking about sounds like a better choice. Go shop all the machines and take your best deal. For what you are after any of them will be a good choice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I received a call back from the brother in law this evening. I guess he fabbed up the dollie himself.

He bought a hitch, mounted it onto a piece of steel tubing, welded that onto a piece of 4x6 steel tubing and mounted a couple wheels like you'd find on the front of a lawn mower. Topped it off with a ball and hooks that to the fish house.

This way there is little to no weight on the ATV. The only thing the ATV needs to do is pull. If a guy really wanted to be creative, he could mount a ski under the dollie instead of 2 wheels to allow it to ride over the snow easier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Me neighbor told me that is more or less what his son did.

He welded a tongue jack on the fish house trailer tongue with a 12" wide steel framed ski that was about 12" high @ the curve.

He attached heavy duty plastic off a 55 gallon drum to the ski frame.

Curved part of the barrel for the front of the ski frame and another foot of flat stock for the under side.

Told me he would lower the house just until the tongue weight would start to stress the ATV suspension, back it off a bit and away he went.

Worked slick he said and it would climb over 10" of snow no problem.

I would not be dragging the house thru such stuff so that would not be a issue, but good to know if I went with such an idea !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually was looking @ a New 650 Brute Force (Camo)4X4 Solid Axle with full 1 year warranty for $5,600.. Just not sure if that is a good deal, or if I want to drop another 3g in financing just for a ice fishing rig. confused

That is actually a pretty good deal! I bought a 650 kawi brute force last fall and LOVE it! Lots of power and is a great ride! Mine is the single rear axle and I actually think it rides just fine and the it tows with no problem. Go with the Kawi, you won't regret it!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When Kawi introduced the Prairie 650, it was hands down the best riding SRA machine money could buy.

I had the chance to ride one of the first machines sent out to the dealers who had a demo to get the word out. This machine was just plain sick as far as acceleration and handling. It was that good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is what I did locks up the rear suspension when needed and nice comfy ride when not needed. Added a leaf spring to the rear that removes easy by pulling one pin and its off. Would post pics but dont know how?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually was looking @ a New 650 Brute Force (Camo)4X4 Solid Axle with full 1 year warranty for $5,600.. Just not sure if that is a good deal, or if I want to drop another 3g in financing just for a ice fishing rig. confused

You will be well over powered for pulling a 1800# fish house. I used my 350 yamaha big bear to pull my 3000# fish house this year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Size need is a unknown being I've never owned a wheeler.

Initially I looked @ a Honda 420 Rancher 4 X 4 new for $4,300

but again unfamiliarity with my needs and function is something I need to decide.

From a resale perspective do people gravitate towards "larger" cc machines like above 500 cc ?

This unit will only be a early/late ice fishing unit to access the lake, pull my houses out and around when the truck cant be out there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a 2006 Suzuki LT700 King Quad; on k-bid. No idea about condition. Auction ends in an hour. Just an option. Right now its at $2100.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lep,

The reason that I ask is because I bought a suspenion lock thing for my IRS. I put it on the wheeler when I am pulling the wheel house and take it off when I'am not and have the full suspension back again. The tongue weight of the wheel house is on the wheeler with this set up.

Thanks,

"hooks"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no such thing as overpowered with a wheeler. Get all the juice u can. Half throttle is always an option. I use a grizzly to pull my light 6 1/2' x 10' house. At some point in time your going to need the power. When the snow gets deep like it did this year it sure helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why does power make a difference in snow??? I think that weight, traction and clearance would be more of an issue than power when it comes to snow and ice! I had a 350 sportsman that would go through just as much snow as my new 650 Brute Force. Snow and ice is all about traction which is what chains are for!!! As long as the wheeler has low gear, it will pull just fine!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Why does power make a difference in snow??? I think that weight, traction and clearance would be more of an issue than power when it comes to snow and ice!
I couldn't agree more - my experience has been the same.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lep,

The reason that I ask is because I bought a suspenion lock thing for my IRS. I put it on the wheeler when I am pulling the wheel house and take it off when I'am not and have the full suspension back again. The tongue weight of the wheel house is on the wheeler with this set up.

Thanks,

"hooks"

That's the other option to keep the rear of your wheeler from squatting with a heavy tongue weight. The down side is, it might not disperse the weight throughout the machine, thus causing your front end to become light. In that case you risk losing your steering ability.

Personally, that would make me a little uncomfortable with 1800 lbs of fish house behind me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see your point for the weight dispersment but I haven't had any problems steering or anything yet. It has worked really well for me and the tongue doesn't weight 1800 lbs. so it might not be as bad as it sounds.

"hooks"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would say anything 200cc and up. Traction is the main concern, none of them are any good without chains or studs. 4X4 doesn't matter much on ice unless you stud the front tires, (its always good to have a few just so you can steer), or if you are going OVER big drifts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

fishnhooks,

I hope you didn't think I meant the tongue weight was 1800lbs grin

Usually the tongue weight will range between 300-500 lbs.

I hooked up a neighbors camper one day to pull it to his front yard. The camper had a 300 lb tongue weight. Needless to say, I won't be doing that again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts



    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
    • Try a compression check. And make sure the choke is opening all the way.
    • They are not the best out their but for the price and your average person not too bad I guess, Its going to send lead to where its pointed. This is probably what is going to happen he is going to buy a package shoot it for awhile then start upgrading everything to how he wants it and it is going to end up costing way more than if he just built one himself how he wants it.  
    • Hello, well I convinced my brother in-law to pick up my buddies old 1980 185 although pretty sure he said it was bored out to a 200? Here is the deal it's been sitting for a solid 8 years. I know it ran fine before. Not the delema-----   It starts right up (he bought a new carb odd amazon) although it sounds like a jet with high rpms. Looked at the throttle cable that's fine. Floats are fine. So he plugged this hole in the air filter and got it to idle down although when he hit the gas wouldn't get any power. Read a few things online and they tell you to just bypass the filter box and all that so back to amazon we went to get one of those filters that mount right up to the carb and it's still the same issue..   I just haven't seen anything like this? Do you guys have any thoughts or tricks that we/he could try?! Thanks in advance
    • Hi Everyone,  I'm looking into buying my first true fish finder and I'm a little perplex with the mapping card situation.  I'm looking at Humminbird Helix 5's and 7's.  I'm drawn to the autochart feature.  From my understanding, you can record 8 hours of charting onto the internal storage, but, is there any native mapping included on the unit or do I absolutely have to get some sort of mapping chip, zerolines or lake master, or navionics?  Can I store data on a blank SD card?  I've been researching this a lot and haven't found any conclusive answers. Thanks everyone!
    • Saul Good, Man.....  LOL 
    •   When do the not so rare Highjack birds show up?  Oh ah. 
  • Our Sponsors