Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
letsgosioux93

bait

19 posts in this topic

ive been gettin a lot on eros. they never let me down. My buddy was catchin em on the gulp maggot things though. We also got some on minnows so idk, maby we were just on a hot spot smile

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

eros are the ticket for me, waxies smear unless you use a new hook everytime and not let it get any bet dall

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you find em when they are bittin good, you can throw just about anything down there and pull em up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i like to use plastics tipped with eros, gets them to really go after em and hold on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is my personal opinion. But presentation and location are far more important than bait choice. Lure size, drop rate ect...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DD is right. I ran out of bait one time, and caught sunnies on a gum wrapper. HONEST.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Euros seem to hold the hook better and not just tear-off. waxies when theaded on the hook seem to pull right off so you have to rebait after every fish or so. Minnows the right size is key if to big hard to set hook to small most times smaller fish. Just my opinion or food for thought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A GUM WRAPPER !!!

That is motivation.

I'm sure its just me.. but I dont have near as much luck with Minnows as I do waxies or plastics.

my $.02

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

spikes were working early on,now its waxies during the day and minnows while its dark,havent tried the gulp yet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Euros seem to hold the hook better and not just tear-off. waxies when theaded on the hook seem to pull right off so you have to rebait after every fish or so. Minnows the right size is key if to big hard to set hook to small most times smaller fish. Just my opinion or food for thought.

even though a spike wont come off,id reccommend changing the spike after every fish anyways cuz they have a scent pouch on the blunt end of the spike and all the scent will run out,i change my spike after every fish caught

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh yeah I change my gum wrapper too. Winterfresh seems to work best. laugh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I make sure I have everything with me because ya never know what they will be hitting that day. I can always catch fish on a small plastic and a waxie though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to say that colored euros have worked the best for me,hands down. I tip a small jigging spoon with 3 or 4 and the pannies have been going crazy! I bought a couple scoops of minnows a few weeks ago and only used a couple.The crappies wouldnt even touch them compared to the larvae. I picked some up in the beginning of Jan. and they have held up great in the fridge inside the bait puck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last weekend crappie minnows out caught waxies on my spring bobber probably 2 to 1. Also, the fish that hit the crappie minnows were all keepers versus what was on the waxies. Not sure if that wasn't where I had the minnow in the pack of fish versus I almost always fish the top fish marked with a spring bobber and waxie. Shrimpo/Ratzo with a plastic body on and could attract them but not get them to bite with just the plastic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts



    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
    • Try a compression check. And make sure the choke is opening all the way.
    • They are not the best out their but for the price and your average person not too bad I guess, Its going to send lead to where its pointed. This is probably what is going to happen he is going to buy a package shoot it for awhile then start upgrading everything to how he wants it and it is going to end up costing way more than if he just built one himself how he wants it.  
    • Hello, well I convinced my brother in-law to pick up my buddies old 1980 185 although pretty sure he said it was bored out to a 200? Here is the deal it's been sitting for a solid 8 years. I know it ran fine before. Not the delema-----   It starts right up (he bought a new carb odd amazon) although it sounds like a jet with high rpms. Looked at the throttle cable that's fine. Floats are fine. So he plugged this hole in the air filter and got it to idle down although when he hit the gas wouldn't get any power. Read a few things online and they tell you to just bypass the filter box and all that so back to amazon we went to get one of those filters that mount right up to the carb and it's still the same issue..   I just haven't seen anything like this? Do you guys have any thoughts or tricks that we/he could try?! Thanks in advance
    • Hi Everyone,  I'm looking into buying my first true fish finder and I'm a little perplex with the mapping card situation.  I'm looking at Humminbird Helix 5's and 7's.  I'm drawn to the autochart feature.  From my understanding, you can record 8 hours of charting onto the internal storage, but, is there any native mapping included on the unit or do I absolutely have to get some sort of mapping chip, zerolines or lake master, or navionics?  Can I store data on a blank SD card?  I've been researching this a lot and haven't found any conclusive answers. Thanks everyone!
    • Saul Good, Man.....  LOL 
    •   When do the not so rare Highjack birds show up?  Oh ah. 
  • Our Sponsors