Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

  • 0
Cooperman

Battery powered jump starters

Question

What is your opinion about these jump starters? Do they work, or are they just a waste of money? I'd like to have something portable for jumping all the dead batteries I have every time I go to start something.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

10 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Buy a good one and you won't regret it, buy a cheap one and you will wish you had saved the money!

I have a good one that still works great, it is close to 15 years old and has jumped countless vehicles! Make sure to get one with the highest cranking amps you are willing to afford. I have found the ones with compressors and lights and gadgets are often not as good.

Edited by Macgyver55
Added thought

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

And make sure you plug it in when not in use to maintain the battery charge or it is just a big ole weight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
14 hours ago, Macgyver55 said:

Buy a good one and you won't regret it, buy a cheap one and you will wish you had saved the money!

 

I have a cheap "Peak" one, like 600 cca, but I bought it for a different reason (led lights in fish house) and it does decent for my reason But I have also used it for jumping and it has been so so for that. It will jump and get you started when not really cold or on a smaller engine, but a 350 with pretty dead batt when it is really cold, no way. I cursed that thing as Mac said...

For pure jumping, I would get a good one of those smaller versions (but high amp) - some are pretty small now and I have heard they work well even though they almost fit in your pocket. For a sort of "catch all" one, I would make sure it has a light (might does not) and a USB plug (mine does not). I would not get a pump built in. And get the biggest amp you can. Dont get the Peak 600....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

If you get a good one they are very handy to have around, 4 wheelers, lawn tractor, boat and vehicles. I bought a middle of the road Schumacher and its worked well so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Macgyver states it the way it is.  I received a Schumacher (about $80) as a gift a couple yrs. ago and wish I'd returned it.  Only thing it IS good for is inflating tires and that is if I remember to charge it every 1 to 2 wks.  As far as jumping assist, I might as well hook up reg. jumper cables, hold the loose ends and say a prayer.  Get a very good quality unit without extras built in on it.  Am thinking about one of the new lithium compact units, but not sure which to get.  Good luck with your purchase.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I bought a $60 Power On Board Jump Start 450 crank amps 18 years ago. This thing is amazing. Starts my RV 454cc engine, many cars, serves as a test battery for all my fishing equipment with the Cig. lighter outlet. Its always in my boat wheel house UTV 4 wheeler, when on the lake, its been a life saver. Always charge it after heavy use, last time charged was back in early March - just checked, still has a full charge. Like other posts, buy a good high crank amp one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Thanks all,

lt looks like it will cost about $150 to get a good one according to the review I've been reading. But I think it will be worth it, with all the batteries I have to keep maintained, and the portability.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I have to agree with papadarv. We use ours a lot, even to trim up the outboard so we can pull the boat up to the garage to put the batteries in each spring. We have a couple of Sears Diehards & they were on sale for about 1/2 of that. I think as long as they don't have all the extra stuff & some good CCA's they work pretty well as long as you charge them after using

Edited by gunner55

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Why not just get and keep the electrical systems working? I get a kick out of some of my neighbors. They park their farm equipment on hillsides so they can roll them downhill to get them started. What a pain in the neck that must be to always have dead batteries. It really takes very little maintenance to keep batteries in top condition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Believe me Bob, I try. I must own 6 battery maintainers and 3 battery chargers. I have a lot of battery powered equipment.

3 riding lawn tractors

a pull behind Ranch king, electric start

a John Deere and an Alice Chalmers

2 ATV's

3 boats

an Yetti ice house

A truck, a car and an SUV (usually not a problem, except for the SUV that has 26 computers supposedly, and if you don't drive it for a week or two the computers drain the battery.

the other day I pulled the JD out of the garage that had a battery minder on it. It started fine. A day later I go to start it, dead. Also, some of the equipment is at a property of mine that has no electricity.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
  • MWO