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First Wheel House Construction (Advice Please?)


Fuzzbient

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your doing a great job, Im getting ready to build me a condo ice house, I spend alot of time on the ice and I plan on being confortable, with a grandson spending alot of time with me this coming winter Im keeping it all simple fast and easy, and of course safe, as I seen in them pictures of a little one, I encourage you to consider some kind of useful fishing covering for the hole, so I put together a deal you know the wire shelves in your refrigerator, I put hinges on them plus I can fish with them covering the hole, no lost articles that seem to flop in the hole especially when your not looking, if I catch a fish I just lift the cover, Ive built several ice houses and learn alot from each one, I own a roofing co. also you will want to put terminator bars on your roof to prevent the wind from ripping it off plus you will never have any leaks, screwing a 2x3 is only asking for leaks in the long run, no need for any caulk on the roof as long as its gued down, what about a roof vent man your gonna cook in there, I dont use rubber no more epdm I use torch down, but you had better know what your doing or you set the place on fire, dont forget carbon monoxide detector, and a fire extinguisher.

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I used 3/4" treated floor with 1/2" pink ridged foam and thin louan plywood on top. I carpeted mine and am happy with it.If you don't carpet it, I would use thin treated plywood instead of louan.I made my ceilind too high which caused more weight and is more difficult to heat.

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your doing a great job, Im getting ready to build me a condo ice house, I spend alot of time on the ice and I plan on being confortable, with a grandson spending alot of time with me this coming winter Im keeping it all simple fast and easy, and of course safe, as I seen in them pictures of a little one, I encourage you to consider some kind of useful fishing covering for the hole, so I put together a deal you know the wire shelves in your refrigerator, I put hinges on them plus I can fish with them covering the hole, no lost articles that seem to flop in the hole especially when your not looking, if I catch a fish I just lift the cover, Ive built several ice houses and learn alot from each one, I own a roofing co. also you will want to put terminator bars on your roof to prevent the wind from ripping it off plus you will never have any leaks, screwing a 2x3 is only asking for leaks in the long run, no need for any caulk on the roof as long as its gued down, what about a roof vent man your gonna cook in there, I dont use rubber no more epdm I use torch down, but you had better know what your doing or you set the place on fire, dont forget carbon monoxide detector, and a fire extinguisher.

Good advice Charlie! Post some pictures when you build your condo ice house, I'd love to see how it will work.

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so take the treated plywood then pink foam board then anyother sheet of plywood. then the carpet right??

I decided against the sandwich method. I'd hate to be that far off of the ice plus I don't like to add all that extra weight. What I did is put the 1 1/2 inch foam sheets right in between my frame braces and then layered on top of the frame right on the foam with 3/4 inch treated. This way I'm only 3/4 inch off the frame for the tops of the holes. The plywood is attached directly to the frame. So far with just a tiny heater during construction the floor stays plenty warm.

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this is just a thought of mine i didnt read everypost on here

but the one thing i've found in these bigger houses is the way

the heaters are installed

my gf had a ice castle 8 x 18 plus the nose

the heater was on one end of it and rather than blowing out the long way it blew out the other way right toward the bunk on that end so at night that person cooked the persom on the other end froze bad bad design in my opinion

she sold that one and bought alittle smaller thinkin she could get on the ice sooner

and this one had a heater kinda the same thing one end to warm the other to cold and was controled by a thermostate the wasnt really to good either way to warm or to cold

i think i'd try to find one that had like hi..med..low

i would put some thought in it for sure

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Good points Gregg. I was planning on getting a small direct vent and putting it across from the door. It's only 6.5 x 12 so it shouldn't take much to heat it. I'm sure it will still have issues being evenly heated. It will be nice to have the windows that can be cracked open on each side. The top bunk will still likely be much warmer than the bottom bunk.

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We have a 7x16. We put in a forced air vented furnace. It came with 2 air outlets, but we actually teed off one and we now have 3 ducts. The furnace is located in the middle of the house, under the counter. One duct blows to the front, one blows out in the middle, and the 3rd blows directly under my bunk in the rear. Ahhhh, nice and warm...This is hands down better than radiant heat. It still gets warmer for the guy on the top bunk, but that is hard to control...

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hey Fuzz. It doesn't have to be a permanent bunk it can run lengthwise and can be folded up. Make a box the size of the matress out of 2x4's(plywood on the bottom) and lay the mattress in the 2x4 frame and when not in use fold it up on hinges and it should only hang out of the wall at the most 4" when hinged against the wall.

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hey Fuzz. It doesn't have to be a permanent bunk it can run lengthwise and can be folded up. Make a box the size of the matress out of 2x4's(plywood on the bottom) and lay the mattress in the 2x4 frame and when not in use fold it up on hinges and it should only hang out of the wall at the most 4" when hinged against the wall.

Would be possible, but for the layout with the door and heater and windows, I will be building stacked bunks on one end and have a bench with storage already built on the other end. I plan on fishing while I sleep so this layout will work best so I don't cover the holes with a bed and will have good seating on both ends during non-sleeping hours. If I put a fold up bed on the long wall it might fold up and cover the window or heater too. I need a space where I can stack two bunks so there's room for family or friends to camp as well. It's a little shack, more of an ice-cabin than an ice castle. :-)

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Got it pretty much done. Still have a few girly things to add like window treatments, but it's ready to fish. If you see me on the lake, stop by and say hi, but don't guarantee I'm actually on any fish. Thanks to Fish House Supply for the great service and prices on the heater and the propane lamp!

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Fuzzbient nice work! Very nice! I just started my first perm fish house project, a little different (turning a pop up camper into a 12ft x 6ft fish house). Wondering if you can help me out w/ some advice...

How tall should the house be inside?

With the rubber roof, was it pretty easy to install? I saw your pics, wondering what the process is...looks like you had it up right away (wondering how that connects to the siding, etc.).

How did you connect the house to the frame? Did you bolt it to the trailer?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Again nice house!!!

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    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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