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Nils


O2Fish

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It might not hurt to do the "choke trick" too. I went through the two tank break-in thing one year ago and it still wouldn't cut. It would just grab the ice and bog down. I called the distributer out East and he told me to try the break-in again only this time gun it without the auger attached and close the choke a few times until it almost quits because sometimes they sit for a long time in the warehouse and the diaphrams dry out. I did this and it finally started working fine. I had never seen anything posted about this before so I was glad I called out there.

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Here's another question for you. How much (if any) grease did you put into to gear houseing? I see in the manual is says to add some every 50 hours or so but nothing about when you first start with it. It didn't look like it had any residue on it so I'm wondering if they put any in when it leaves the factory. Fishinguru I kind of wondered that too but I imagine once the adaptor is set tight, thats probably just where it is, but I really don't know.

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Originally Posted By: FISHINGURU
when you guys connect the powerhead to the adaptor do you get all the threads in there so the powerhead and adaptor is flush or is there a little bit of space between there?

does anyone know before i take this thing out on the ice and let her rip?

I tightened mine up as far as I could get it.

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It might jump a bit when breaking through the ice especially when ice is less than a foot. If your getting a lot of wobble check to make sure you auger shaft bolt is tight and the locking nut tight as well.

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i tightened mine like an animal and couldn't get all the threads completely in...guess she's ready...i finished off another tank and did the choke thing a few more times for good measure also.

When I checked mine this weekend the allen head bolt was tight but I was able to tighten the locking nut by about a 1/4 turn.

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Well I put my trust in you guys and went ahead and pulled the trigger and ordered me a Nils. Now I have to wait! I hope its a good purchase and you aren't all yanking my chain!! So when I get it (just to clarify one more time) I need to run a tank through it by letting it idle for a while, revving it up and down, and operating the choke in and out? Just don't want to mess anything up. Its a big investment for a college kid. Might have to go without books next semester!!

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This is what I was told by Nils when I called to verify break in on mine last week. I drilled with it Sunday and man its a sweet drilling machine.

First tank 50:1 then 75:1 or 100:1 mix Synthetic oil

89 or above octane

Run with out the auger shaft on at first. Prime the ball twice, full choke, then half choke then no choke. Open up full throttle cycling the choke back and forth. Lubricates the diaprham.

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Tighten the adapter only as far as it goes, it will tighten itself when it drills.

so it will tighten a little more when i start to drill? i have a washer in the parts bag but it doesn't seem to fit on the allen wrench threads or the threads coming out of the powerhead...where is the washer supposed to go?

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I think that is a spare for your plug? You only need the nut, bolt and the adapter. Note, make sure that the big hole on the adapter is facing the flat part of the auger shaft. Insert the bolt thru the big hole and tighten it with the allen wrench first, then attach the nut and tighten together with allen wrench and the motor wrench.

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Originally Posted By: Juha Pentti
Tighten the adapter only as far as it goes, it will tighten itself when it drills.

so it will tighten a little more when i start to drill? i have a washer in the parts bag but it doesn't seem to fit on the allen wrench threads or the threads coming out of the powerhead...where is the washer supposed to go?

I think the washer your talking about is the one you use behind the wing nut when you have it set up as a hand auger.

[From Admin: Nils Master @ Outdoor Pro Store.]

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
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    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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