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How do you bleed or flush an entire brake system?


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If you do not have access to a flush machine, I will remove all fluid from the master cylinder with a squeeze bulb type fluid removed, fill with clean/new proper type of fluid, have someone in the drivers seat, raise vehicle in air, have person in drivers seat pump up peddle and hold down while I crack the bleeder. I start in the passenger rear side tire, crack bleeder, fluid push’s out (make sure person keeps holding peddle down and put some rags down on floor cause it will get messy), tighten bleeder, have the person pump peddle back up, hold again, crack bleeder. Keep doing this until clean fluid is spraying out of bleeder. Then I lower vehicle and top off fluid in reservoir, raise back up and move to the drivers rear tire and repeat, then pass front and then drivers front.. Some will go back to each tire after for one last pass around each tire for good measure. There are other methods like vacuum type bleeding, gravity bleed and the mason jar bleed, but this is the tried and true method I have help assisted and have done many, many time over the years.

Make sure you have a nice tight (proper sized) wrench for bleeder, so you do not strip out. If bleeder is rusty or dirty, used a little wire brush to clean bleeder and use rust penetrate to help free bleeder. A stuck/rusty bleeder can break off and that spells more work.

Is their a reason you will have to do this?

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1. Jack up car.

2. Grab wrong size wrench

3. Use wrong size wrench and break off bleeder

4. screw around with an easy out for a hour or so

5. go to dealer and pay to much for new bleeder

5. go home and put in new bleeder

6. try to put fluid back in - large puddle on floor, run out of fluid, assistant has to go pee, you think your done.

7. test drive - peddle goes 1/2 way to floor and you think you're going to take out the neighbors mailbox as you back out of driveway.

8. Tow it to Jakes and have him finish it off.

All kidding aside - why would I want to have the system flushed.

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Good story, and I am sure has been lived through many times! The reason is to get the moisture out of the fluid, moisture boils when hot and then you loose pedal when its needed the most! Also moisture corodes the interior of the calipers, and wheel cylinders

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I flush the fluid in my 72 Cutlass every 2 years or so. the car sits quite a bit and also the headers run close to one of the brake lines.

the old fluid is usually a dark color as opposed to the new fluid. The car had 4 wheel drums and I can feel the difference in braking after I flush it. I realize 4 wheel drums are different then a newer ABS braking system, but it makes me happy

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airjer - what's the approximate cost of a flush? I don't know if you can post it or not, so you can email me at [email protected] if you can't. Thanks!

$89.95 at the location I work at (Woodbury Autocare). All of our service location should be in the same ball park. You can click the Linn Company link in my signature to find locations and phone numbers if needed.

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