hanso612 Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 I'm about to put my tree order in for the year. I noticed this site was a little slow. I usually throw out a contoversy to get things fired up, but habitat seemed like a nicer way to go. What projects do you guys have planned for the year? How are you funding them, How are you getting volunteers to help?I want to put in pot hole and am looking for advice on best piece of equipment to rent to get the job done. Would it be cheaper to hire a farmer? Murray co, twenty yards wide, in old pasture. I want to grow cattails but not a lot of water. I want it bermed so birds can tuck in out of wind. This is a harvest plot so drifting in winter isn't a conscern. Any body know a good way to get cattails started? Is it easier to make it round or long like a mud pull? Any permits needed? Hans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
123fish Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 hanso612 I've got a buddy in Nobles County who is looking at putting in a pond also. I believe he contacted the local Soil Conservation Service for answers to the questions like you have. Otherwise contact Wendy Krueger at the DNR office at Slayton Minnesota. She would be able to help you out. There may even be some funding available for your project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Wettschreck Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 The Murray county soil and water conservation office in Slayton is another avenue. They have assisted in funding similar projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKJACK Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 To get cattails started just go harvest some cattail heads right now, when you're done with the dirt work, or early next spring, just fluff out the heads all the way around the edge. They need to be started in the dirt, they won't establish anywhere with grass. Ponds with a constant level are hard to get cattails established, they need the high water to drown out the competing grass, then when its lower, the mud that is left around the edge is prime cattail growing ground. I have about 6 ponds, the ones that have stop-log structures are fairly easy to get cattails in, the others with just dirt berms don't get much for catails in, they're usually at a constant level, so if you want cattails, put in a water control structure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UGUIDE Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Hnas, I'm not much help on the potholes but I am adding 3.3 acres of Farmable Wetlands CRP CP27/28 this spring. Added 30 acres last spring and have another 14 acres planed for spring 09. I also drafted a tree plan to add a lot of field windbreaks to my farm (about 250 acres total). That one might not go in until 2010. I've found you can't get these thing sgoing too far ahead. The PF biologist is running with the plan from their and it will take ALOT of planning to make sure it is done right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer Handle Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Definately call the Soil and Water Conservation Office.They are a big help and will give you tons of advice. They will even test the soil to see if it could hold water all year.And, it is FREE!At least it was for me when I built a pond last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer Handle Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 By the way, I have planted thousands (yes thousands) of trees by hand in the land 10 years. Typically at least 200 a year or so.But lately they all seem to die. Only the pine trees seem to live for me. It is frustrated to plant 300 maple and oak trees in good soil...and 3 years later not one is there....I will keep planted, but now the numbers will be less and the trees will be bigger. The trees from the county just don't seem to make it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Originally Posted By: Hammer HandleBy the way, I have planted thousands (yes thousands) of trees by hand in the land 10 years. Typically at least 200 a year or so.But lately they all seem to die. Only the pine trees seem to live for me. It is frustrated to plant 300 maple and oak trees in good soil...and 3 years later not one is there....I will keep planted, but now the numbers will be less and the trees will be bigger. The trees from the county just don't seem to make it. Hammer those little trees need weekly water,and its been awful dry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKJACK Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Hammer, I've also planted a lot of trees and now a days I won't even consider it unless I also have the time to put fabric around the tree, the fabric serves as both a weed barrier and retains moisture, once I get that fabric around the trees I'll get a 90%+ survival rate. Do a search on 'Shaw fabric', that stuff was developed for high plains tree planting. And as Sparcebag said, it has been very dry the last couple of years. Last year I planted about 15 apple trees and I hauled water to them to keep them going. I had some spruces that were 6 foot tall die out last year, its been dry!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UGUIDE Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Originally Posted By: BLACKJACKHammer, I've also planted a lot of trees and now a days I won't even consider it unless I also have the time to put fabric around the tree, the fabric serves as both a weed barrier and retains moisture, once I get that fabric around the trees I'll get a 90%+ survival rate. Thats great info Blackjack. I have 12 acres of CRP trees with fabric. 5000 plum and chokecherry and have not had to replace a one in 5 years. I will definitely go with fabric on future plantings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muc33 Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 UGUIDE stated a great resource with the PF Biology teams. Contact them and find out from your local biologist the best type plantings for your area. Like UGUIDE stated, chokes and plumbs work fabulous and we have also only been using eastern red cedar for our plantings. depending on what you are looking for a row of lilac or honeysuckle for windbreak or shelter is great as well. Fabric, A MUST, unless you have time or lots of water tanks, and get a good mulch to put under the fabric! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UGUIDE Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 I just came up with a new one. I probably have about 20-30 acres of road ditch around the place. Basic brome grass and not much wildlife value. Talking it over with a few folks (PF biologist for one) and they thought a great idea to restore nesting cover. So, my plan is to interseed(drill) with alfalfa and spray the grass with roundup. The brome will eventually come back in and hopefully taller version. The "A" adds a forb component and is also great erosion control and easy to maintain. Hopefully, bird production increases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer Handle Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 Yes, the fabric and watering is nice...but I don't have the time and money to do this to 300 - 400 hundred trees a year.Yes, I could do less...but I plant these trees in many different locations mixed in the woods. For now, I have scaled way down and order larger trees. Or, buy potted trees. The ones from the county have bare roots and don't seem to make it. Only the pine seem to survive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKJACK Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 hammer, I'd encourage you to at least try some fabric. Plant 50 trees in a row and put fabric on every other tree and come back in 5 years and see which ones have survived and which ones have grown better. The fabric provides moisture retention AND weed control. I've seen trees planted in sod, in five years if they're alive they've barely grown at all. To cut down on the costs, on the evergreens instead of laying the 6 foot roll down the entire length of the row, I use the 4 foot squares on each tree. More labor intensive though. On shrub rows, since they're planted closer together, I try to get 2 foot rolls of fabric and run it down each side of the row. You're right, potted trees are good but they're spendy. You could buy good bareroot stock and put down fabric for the same price and get more trees planted.Another thing to check on is your local soil and water district, and pheasants forever, they might have cost sharing on the fabric (and trees). Nowadays I won't plant a tree without putting fabric down. I'd rather plant 100 trees and have a quality planting with 95% survival rate vrs 500 trees with a 40% survival rate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanso612 Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 I have had luck buying bare root stock and potting them in gallon pots. I keep them in my yard at home for a season or to then they get transplanted down to the farm. A year with water and no competition helps, but I have had a setback or two planting potted plants used to regular water and then not getting any down on the farm. I have to plan my plantings around the weather to avoid this transplant shock. Hans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom7227 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 If you plant 500 trees and only 10-20% survive you clearly need to re-think the work you do. If you planted 100 trees and put fabric on them you might end up doing the same amount of work but have 100 good strong trees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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