Jiffy auger problems.

[littlemikey]

I have a jiffy 3 hp stx 10" auger and it doesnt idle at all. when your cutting a hole it runs ok as long as you keep on the throttle, but if you let off and then try to pull on the throttle again it cuts out and dies unless you can prime it fast enough. also if you let off on the throttle it will not idle at all. I bought auger last winter and have had the problem since it was new. was wondering if anyone else is having problems?? also i heard it might have something to do with the idle and high speed screw on carb, but i have no idea which one to turn or how much to adjust it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[fishinalot]

It should be under warranty. I would bring it in to get tuned.

[Surface Tension]

This was a common problem with a lot of new out of the box augers. Emission standards put on a utility 2 stroke engine that by nature isn't intended to run so lean. Severe cold weather use only makes that problem worse. The colder the the temps the more fuel an engine needs. Thats fine and there are ways around that. Without touching any adjustments here is what everyone can do. Warm your auger up to operating temp before you start to drill. If you need to participially choke the auger during that warm up then thats what has to be done.

With more power augers in use today, we're at a time where more folks new to using 2 stroke engines. Having to adjust a 2 strokes carb, whether it be a weed wacker, chain saw, old snowmobile, or auger, it has always been a common thing to do at some point.

Basiclly theres 3 adjustments to a carb. Idle speed- is a simple stop screw on the external linkage to set idle speed.

Low Speed Adjustment- this will meter the gas/air mixture inside the carb.

High Speed- this will meter the gas/air mixture at high speeds.

Turning in - Clockwise = lean

Turning out - Counter Clockwise= Richen.

If the won't run without having to prime or without giving throttle you are too lean at Idle Speed. You want to richen that mixture.

At high speeds if the engine won't run without priming you'll need to richen that adjustment.

In an attempt to make small engines friendlier, we start seeing limiter caps on High and Low Speed adjustments or no adjustments at all and fixed jets are used.

If this is a problem that has just started then you should look into having the carb cleaned and rebuilt. Here is more reading on carb adjustemnts

[gill man]

Have they gone back to using adjustable carbs now? When I bought my Jiffy model 30 8 or so years ago they had first come out with the new sealed carbeurators. I had 2 model 31's and a model 30 with the new sealed carb. They all had problems. Some wouldn't start for dump, some wouldn't idle, one had no power at all. Scheels was great about dealing with me and taking these back.

Finally the guy at Scheels found a last year's model 30 with the old style adjustable carbeurtor. I bought that one and have not had any problems.

If the carbs are sealed (no high and low speed adjustments), I don't really know what to tell you besides try working with the store you bought it from or talk to Jiffy.

I'm sure Jiffy changed something from that year I had soe many problems. If they were still like that I don't see how they could sell an auger to anybody.

If you have an adjustable carb, everything Surface Tension said is right on.

When adjusting, the high speed screw should have a spring on the screw, while the low sped does not.

The high and low speed will be right next to each other. The idle seed screw will be up closer to the throttle linkage, and will be a smaller screw than the high and low speed screws.

gill man

[BIG DS]

If the carb on your auger is not adjustable, the jets can be drilled out to make it work better. I have done it on a couple of the newer Strikemasters and one new Jiffy. Don't let just anyone do this though. It takes someone that really knows what they are doing. My guess is however, your low speed circuit in the carb is probably plugged. I've seen a bunch come out of the box that way. The easy fix to that is screw out the low speed adjuster screw, if it has one, and spray some carb cleaner through the hole. That usually clears the obstruction. When you put the screw back in, turn it in all the way and then back it out a turn and a half. That should get you close. If you carb has only one mixture adjust screw, that is for the low speed and it has a fixed high speed. In any case, I would not run it much until you get it fixed right. It is obviously not getting enough fuel and you could do damage to the engine because of that.

[Wild Willie]

Surface Tension is right on the mark. The 3-hp has to meet EPA standards when it leaves the factory. They are calibrated to meet that standard at room temp where they are made, I'm guessing at about 75 degrees. Take that same 3-hp powerhouse out into 0 degree temps and you've got an auger that won't start, idle or cuts out.

I read some where that it is not just a Jiffy issue. It is a issue than can happen with practically all 3-hp engines. I think the 2-hp is exempt from this problem, hence the pressure release swith.

I also read some where that the thing to do with a 3-hp right out of the box is to: 1) read the manual and do what it says, 2) put the auger in the garage or where ever and let it get cold, lets say about 15 -to- 20 degrees, 3) prime, choke and start engine, let it try to warm-up, 4) the mixture is going to be too lean so turn the idle screw counter clockwise until the engine idles smoothly, 5) now its time to adjust the high speed, hold the auger up above the ground while it is ideling, hit the thottle, if she sputters or cuts out you will need to turn high speed adustment screw counter clockwise just a bit, until you get max/consistent rpm output

Most folks don't give the 3-hp (which is a legitimate engine/power house) enough time to warm-up, most assume the 3-hp should be warmed-up and ready to go just like its the 2-hp.

That's what I have been told or heard. Good luck!

[Surface Tension]

If its new and you can't get it to cut and idle after a warm up then you could pretty much figure its too lean. I'll add to that, it should start with only a couple pulls. Thats assuming your priming and choking to start. Its normal to warm up with some choke or feathering the choke on and off till warm up. Normally you'll give it full choke, once it fires take the choke off but be ready to give it some choke to keep it running till it warms up some.

Like I said earlier you might be better off bringing it in and have it serviced over returning it. You'll probably end up with the same problem if you do return it. An authorized Jiffy or Strikemaster small engine shop will know what to do.

You'll run into one of these for an auger carb.

No low or high speed adjustments means you have a fixed jet. Yes they can be drilled but better yet you can get a larger jet. Depending on the severity of the problem you'll determine how much larger. I rejetted a carb that started good, ran good, cut good, but needed a long warm up. I went .0037 to .0038 and it made a noticable difference. Remember giving the engine more fuel doesn't mean you hopping it up. In this case returning the correct amount of fuel to the engine after Emissions standards compromised the engine. If your not comfortable doing it yourself a small engine shop can do that.

One low speed adjustment and no high speed. Again a fixed main jet.

Limiter caps, they can be pulled.

Low and high speed adjustments

[littlemikey]

Thanks for all the help. I'm going out this weekend so i'll give it a shot.

[MASON38]

Besides the Strikemaster or Jiffy shops, any small engine shop that deals with Tecumseh engines should be able to help you as well.

[dewey1]

one of the biggest problems with 2 stroke idle problems is old gas. If your gas is more than 1 month old, change it! Fuel additives may help, but the best is to change it.

[backlash 1]

Every new auger I have ever bought, Jiffy, Nils, and Strikemaster, have had problems with idling. All I did was set up the idle speed a little higher and the problem disapeared. I set it up as high as possible without having the blade turn while idling. Took care of the problem on all of them.

[moosedrool]

In addition to dewey1's post, make sure you use the high octane/no ethanol fuel.

[Lunder99]

I was having the same issue with my 3 hp Jiffy. I spoke to a Jiffy rep and he stated that he actually wished they would quit making the 3 hp because with emission standards, they just do not run as well as they once did. I exchanged my model 30 for a 2 hp Jiffy STX pro 10". Not only is it 10 lbs lighter, but it seems to cut just as fast if not faster than the model 30 did.

[Rebeleye]

correct me if I'm wrong, most 2 stroke oil's should have some sort of stabilizer already in them right?

[woodboat]

I had the same problem so I spoke to the folks at Feldmann Engineering (they make the Jiffy Augers) As stated in another reply, the engines are set-up at the factory in warm weather/temperatures. This makes them run way to lean in cold temps. Feldmann recommends that you "turn the right cap (red caps on the carb) counter clockwise 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn. This will allow more gas into the engine." I took the red cap off and adjusted the mixture screw. My auger works much better now and I no longer curse Jiffy while trying to start or keep my auger running.

[BIG DS]

Quote:

---

correct me if I'm wrong, most 2 stroke oil's should have some sort of stabilizer already in them right?

---

You are correct. Most oils do have a sabilizer in them. But dewey is also correct. If you have an auger, chainsaw, or any 2 stroke that sits for any period of time, you should dump the old gas and start fresh before firing it up. Stablizers do not stop the gas from going bad, they just slow the process. If you can find non-oxygenated gas, and the pump will be labeled, that will last 3 times longer than any gasoline you will find at the pump. That includes th 87,89, and 92 octane rated gases. Cenex stations seem to be the most common place to find non-ox gasoline.

[theoilman]

AMSOIL Saber Professional is not rated as having stabilizer in it. However many people experience that it does seem to do the job of stabilizing the fuel. Personally I have used gas mixed with Saber Prof. that was 9 months old with no apparent problem.

Another problem plagued by 2-cycle mix - most petroleum oils and some other synthetics will separate and gum in a few months. The AMSOIL Saber mixed in gas does not separate in storage.

The purpose of stabilizer is to prevent gasoline deterioration, to prevent octane loss, prevent varnishing and other related problems so that the gas remains usable. Different brands provide different levels of protection. AMSOIL's gasoline stabilizer will provide up to 18 months of storage protection.

Another solution to the problem - ice fishing season you use it in your auger, use the same gas mixed with AMSOIL Saber in your other 2-cycle pre-mix air cooled engines - chain saw, string cutter, blower, and other tools - many people have use for it year-round.