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Winterizing


marine_man

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Check out these links on the steps to take to winterize your boat & motor:

Winterizing Boats & Motors

Winterizing thread in Equipment Forum

For a direct injected motor (Optimax, Etec, FICHT, HPDI):

I would run some fuel stabilizer through the engine (don't just dump it in the gas tank and call it good, treat the gas in the tank and run the motor for a while to make sure it's all the way through the fuel system). The best way to do this is on the last trip of the season dump some fuel stabilizer into the tank - by the time you're done with your fishing trip the gas in the motor is stabilized.

Then, stop at the gas station on your way home and top the tank off to prevent water in the gas due to condensation. Keep track of how many gallons you added and be sure to add the appropriate amount of treatment for that gas.

Drain the lower unit lube and refill it again until you have a good stream coming out the top hole.

Pull the spark plugs and squirt some fogging fluid into each cylinder. Reinstall the spark plugs, but leave the wires off and turn the motor over a couple of times to get the fogging fluid spread around in the cylinder. Put the wires back on when you're done.

Pull the battery connection, put some form of mouse deterrent and put it away for the winter.

marine_man

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As posted in the Winterizing Four Stroke Outboard Thread

In my manual for a DF90 (90hp suzuki 4-stroke) it explains to run the engine at idle for 15 minutes to cycle the fuel stabilizer. Next spray the fogging oil in the air intake port on the side until the engine smokes while at idle, and then shut it down. After stopping the motor you're supposed to remove the plugs and spray fogging oil in each cylinder and turn the the motor over by hand. (I just turn the key with the kill switch removed). Don't forget to replace the oil, oil filter, and gear oil. According the the manual you don't have to drain it.

You don't have to drain the fuel system is what Mark is referring to.

marine_man

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My Mercruizer I/O has a lower unit gear lube reservoir. Is it necessary to drain both the lube in the gear case and reservoir? Seems like a waste since I don't think the reservoir lube ever gets cantaminated (and that lube is spendy).

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I sure the manufacture says to, but you're right, that oil probably will never even see the upper drive let alone the lower. It's main purpose is to let you know if you are losing oil. It's more of a monitor in that respect. Then again there's not very much oil in the whole thing anyways.

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The link on the first post says to run the motor and spray fogging oil into the carbs until the motor stalls.

Do I need to do this on my 2 stroke outboard before storing it for winter, or can I just remove the plugs and spray it into the cylinders as Marine Man suggests?

This is certainly easier to do.

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The link on the first post says to run the motor and spray fogging oil into the carbs until the motor stalls.

Do I need to do this on my 2 stroke outboard before storing it for winter, or can I just remove the plugs and spray it into the cylinders as Marine Man suggests?

This is certainly easier to do.

My directions are for direct injected motors only (no carbs to spray into).

marine_man

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That wouldn't work too well.. I'd get a socket that would fit the flywheel nut and turn it over that way.

If you can't do that, pull the kill switch or pull the spark plug wires and turn it over real short with the electric spark.

marine_man

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2 questions, about how long should I run the motor to make sure things were treated(I am done for the year and will just back it into the water to run it awhile) and what about removing any line from the prop area. And should I put in new plugs every year??

Thanks,

BHS

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