Slipbobbering Basics

[Stick in Mud]

Hello all,

In recent years, I've found myself fishing slipbobbers more and more, especially in the spring when boat traffic, winds, and shallow-water walleye make anchoring up on a rock reef more enjoyable (and often more productive) than backtrolling, jigging, casting, pulling raps, etc. Maybe I'm too lazy, but I find the visual nature of using bobbers and the lighter tackle much more fun--I actually get to set the hook, the fish fight more, and it's a blast for those of us who take people out who aren't adept at jigging or rigging.

So, after a few years of fun and frustration, I'd like to ask a series of questions. The real impetus for this post, though, is last weekend, when the eyes were hitting bobbers fast and furious, but equipment issues kept getting in the way.

1) What type of bobber stop is best? I use three kinds--the thread, the rubber stop, and the litttle plastic thingy with four holes in it. After sliding the stop up and down the line a few times, each seems to fray the line to the point where I need to retie. This gets very annoying, and I've broken lines numerous times because of it.

2) What type of line? Our usual is 8 lb. Trilene XL, but it requires constant re-ties because of line fraying, damage from the sinker, walleye teeth, etc. I've used fireline a few times and it seems to work OK, but I tend to break off at the mono/flouro leader b/c of the shock to the knots. And the bobber stops seem to slide much more on these lines, though obviously the fraying and line-breaking issue is minimized. I've avoided using the leader, but I do notice a decrease in bites, esp in clear water.

3) Jig or plain hook? One thing about jigs--a wide gap jig is much better for hooksets, but it straightens out after only a few fish. A plain hook works well too, but fish tend to get gut-hooked and the leech will often times ball up on the hook and/or swim very high up in the water, thereby moving the bait too far off bottom.

I think that's enough for now. IF any of you have encountered different problems or issues, please share them. I'm sure I'm forgetting something.

[slipperybob]

Warning: Subjective opinion...

First which kind of bobber,...

The mill lacs thill bobber has a bigger hole opening on top so a bead is required, tie on bobber stop always.

Center sliders (again thill) are generally a good choice. I prefer these with plain hooks.

A Stealth type float (thill) with only the eye on the bottom works better for light bites. I prefer these for jigs.

Line...

I prefer more anti-abrasive lines - copolymers like Silverthread, Gamma, Maxima, Suffix. They're smoother and slides better. I don't like limp line when casting for distance or in windy conditions. Stiffer lines prevent less wind knots/twists. Right now I'm testing Stren Magnathin 6lb. Casts really well, but I did get a few wind knots.

I always use a swivel and bullet slide sinker for plain hooks.

Jigs are tied right on the line.

[Stick in Mud]

We use center sliders (I think).

Do the anti-abrasive lines limit the weakening of the line caused by constantly changing depth?

And how important for you is getting the bobber far away from the boat? I usually anchor right next to the structure to obviate the need for long casts because long casts tend to cause snags and knots around the sinkers (at least for me). I also find that the longer the cast, the more difficult the hookset, especially in windy conditions.

Do you do most of your fishing during the day or evening? I ask because i wonder whether or not line considerations change depending on the light conditions. It seems like one could get away with heavier line and/or braid/fireline at night, but I don't know for sure.

[Coach1310]

1. I prefer the thread/knot type of bobber stop. Always wet the line when sliding it up or down to change depth. When putting on the bobber stop, don't trim the excess too much. Leave a decent amount on each end. This will allow you to cinch it again if it becomes loose. Don't cinch it with all your might when you put it on and make sure all the thread falls into place so you have a nice pattern look to the stop when cinched, not a big knot looking thing.

2. I predominatly use 6lb Trilene XL. I have a few problems with fraying because of the stop, but not much. For sinkers, try to find the ones that have a zig-zag clamping system, not the ball shaped ones with the flanges on them. They have worked well for me. I don't use a leader, so I can't help you there.

3. Most of the time I use a jighead, but if there are multiple people in the boat then we do a 50/50. Half colored hooks, half jig heads. For me, any color will do as long as it is chartreuse!!

This is a system that has worked well for me:

thread bobber stop, bead, center sliding thill bobber,

zig-zag cinching sinker

chartreuse jig head

By the way....all the mistakes I was saying don't do.....I DID THEM ALL FOR A LONG TIME. Good luck. Make sure to post some pics of the big hogs you catch

[slipperybob]

I'm always changing depths depending on location (water depth and structures) to find fish. Definitely wetting the knot helps prevent line fray. Also time, in low light I tend to go more shallow. In night time, I maybe 3 feet or less. Daytime, I generaly go deep, 3 feet or more to within inches off bottom. Sometimes nightime requires going deep to within inches off bottom. It all depends on the fish.

I'm a shorefishing guy, so I need the distance to cover location. As so far as boat, cast only as far as you need.

Windy conditions, I tend to upsize some things; bigger bobber, heavier sinker, heavier line. Usually in very windy situation's if I can do without slipbobbing, I don't. I deadstick or twitch fish. That means I put on a bass tube or worm up a little on the line. It's crazy that sometimes I get a bass hitting the thing, when all I'm trying to get is crappie. But so far as walleye's I think they tend to hug bottom on windy days.

[Wellesy]

I'm not much of an expert here but I'm much like Slipperybob in my set ups. I use the Mille Lacs center slider with a bead and knot, also good advice in another post reading the tag line on the knots as I relearned a lesson about trimming them off too close to the knot as I had two come undone on me. I like the center sliders as they don't offer too much resistance to tip off the fish.

As for line, I've use the 6 pound Magnathin and I like really like it. I tried 6lb Berkley Sensation this year but that seemed to sink too much and too fast for good hooksets. I've used Gamma and Sufix Elite for other applications and would think they would work well also.

[slipperybob]

I used to use the Berkley Sensation but then switched to Silverthread Excalibur. I'm now testing Stren Magnathin. Now the Magnathin is not a copolymer line so it's not as antiabrasive. It is the thinest mono line out there that I know off compared test pound for pound. The six pound Magnathin is as small as the 4 lb Excalibur. However I did get a fray on the Magnathin, bird nest, and it broke on me. It was a fairly small bird nest. I do like the fact that I can cast much further with the Magnathin line and it has perform quite well for slipbobbing. I've hooked fish nicely so far.

I've been thinking of trying some Suffix and Gamma, but I've still got several spools of Silverthread (except 4lb and 6lb).

[bobberup]

Hi,

I just wanted to share a little something I do to the

slip bobber knot.I put a lighter to the ends of the

knot after I trim them.I've had the string come unraveled

before and get all tangled up.This helps prevent that.

Just touch the ends of the string with a flame for a half

a second and it keeps them from unraveling.Just be careful

of your line.I've done that too

[Fishing Junky]

I quit using Thill bobbers a few years back. I had problems with the line cutting into the line slide and sticking my bait a foot or two under the surface. Took me awhile to realize what was going on. Ruined a few outings for me into the bwcaw. I use about a 8.5 to 9ft steelhead rod. 6lb Maxima green line on the spool. The combo makes casting effertlessly. On clear water I try and be about 3ft or so off the bottom when fishing around rock piles. I also don't anchor right on top of a spot, stay back about 60ft or so to allow for a nice long sweeping hookset. Sometimes use a barehook, or hook with a bead. Just some of my techniques. Love to bobber fish. Junky.....

[Wayne Ek]

Since 90% of our trips are for walleye and well over 50% of our clients are novice anglers or children, we slip-bobber fish quite often. I've found these tricks to help me:

1. Longer rods, they increase casting distance and act as big shock absorbers when you have a good fish make a run at boat side.

2. Center floats when fishing water over 6 feet deep. Shallower water we use pegged floats on the longer rods.

3. I like the tread style bobber stops and larger beads.

4. If you're using sinkers use the round sinkers not the eared sinkers, you will get less line twist with the rounds.

5. I like light long shanked jigs, that naturally hang horizontal for leeches. If I'm fishing minnows we go with circle hooks for novice anglers so we can just have them start to reel (no hook set). Otherwise I like Kahle style hooks for most bait fishing.

6. Do not cut the tag ends of the slip-knot to short, leave a little.

7. If you need to adjust the knot make sure you wet it first, I like to smear smelly jelly ( petroleum jelly type fish scent)on the line when adjusting an overly stubborn knot, this let's it slide right along.

8. Don't be afraid to space your split shot weights out.

9. I use small black swivels above most jigs when fishing leeches to help eliminate some line twist.

[fishmarket]

do you put your swivel above the sinkers or below?

[Wayne Ek]

Generally I only use the swivel when fishing leeches on a jig head.

[Bassboy1645]

Jigs in waves or chop and hook in calm or clear water or at night. Waves and chop throw your float around that works the jig too. eyes in calm or clear water seem kinda wary of squirming bait on jig....My observations/opinions

[Bruce Mosher]

I started using Berkley Crystal Fireline this year for slip bobbering. All you need on your line is a good String Stop Knot. Leave a little tag on each end so if you need to tighten it you can. I then put a swivel and about 3 feet of Vanish with a split shot, and at the bottom I usually put on a glow red jig (1/16 oz). If it's windy I put a 1/8th oz jig on. The Crystal line casts great and I don't have problems with line twisting up etc. And to top it off I always use the Wave Buster Bobber. I don't need a plastic bead. I can snap it on and off instantly and go back to jigging without the problem of a bead on my line. It has high visibility and you don't have to keep adding split shot to properly weight it. Just slide the Orange sleeve down and trim the bobber accordingly for sensitivity. When it gets dark I poke a toothpick hole into the top of the bobber and then insert a 3mm light stick for 6-8 hrs of night fishing.

Fun Fun!!! Nothing better than seeing the bobber go down.

Bruce Mosher

[Larry Alexander]

I used to have the same problem with the line cutting into the plastic line slide at the top of the bobber . I have cured this problem buy taking the plastic out and replaceing it with the head of a copper pop revit, no more cut plastic and I think the line slides smoother.

[macgruber]

stop, bead, bobber, bullet slip sinker (either 1/8 or 1/4 depending on depth and speed of drift-usually 1/8 workds just fine), swivel, 2-3 ft. 4 or 6 lb. mono, bare hook.....

hook the minnow or leech in the back so they can swim naturally...... the line below the swivel also helps with this.....

if it's windy and you need longer casts, shorten up the line below the swivel or tangles can become frustrating....

i'd never had a problem with the line fraying until the most recent bwca trip.... lost a big fish when my line snapped above the bobber stop..... set the hook, the line popped, and my bobber started swimming toward the watery depths.... bout ten minutes later it popped up after 50 ft. away sans fish and bait...... have to remember to wet the line next time....

[1Yogi]

I don't seem to have a problem with line abrasion but I always use a bead between the bobber and the slip knot. Another trick to avoid abrasion is to wet the slip knot before you adjust the depth.

[deacon]

Great info, I have really increased the amount of time I spend bobber fishing and can truely say my catch rate has gone up. When on fish anchor and slip bobber. Now all we need is MN to allow two lines in the summer like all our neighbors.

[fishermatt]

I use Fireline on the spool of my slip bobber rod(s), because it's very easy to adjust the knot and never frays the line. (D'oh, I hate that) Also when using fireline (or other no stretch line) you don't need a jolting hookset, just start reeling in and a slight pop when you feel weight, the fish is hooked. You actually have to be careful not to set the hook too hard. I also use a swivel and a mono (vanish)leader.

[1Yogi]

Another thing I have seen, is people pushing the bead into the tube of the bobber and making it stick there after the line is threaded into the bobber.

[deja vu]

Quote:

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In recent years, I've found myself fishing slipbobbers more and more, especially in the spring

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Bobber fishing from a boat for spring walleyes, crappies, or panfish, I use a cane pole. Hard to beat for simplicity and efficiency, if you’re anchored or gently drifting in less than 10-12 feet of water.

Difficult to locate genuine cane poles nowadays, but the artificial cane poles work very well, actually much better… Cabela’s has a 16’ model for less than $10; remove the base 4’ section, and you have a 12’ pole, just right for early crappie and panfish outings…

I prefer a braided line, tied to a mono leader about 18” or less in length. If you use a double hangman’s knot (also called a double UNI-knot) to properly tie the line and leader together, the leader becomes an extension of the line. Attach split shot sinkers below the knot, i.e., to the leader, not the line… (if you use a slip bobber, attach one small split shot above the knot, to keep the bottom of the bobber from banging the knot). A swivel isn’t really necessary; if you like to use one, install it at the top, between the cane pole tip and the braided line.

Long-shanked, wide gap hooks, either snelled or tied to the leader using a tight hangman’s knot, work best for me; I want the hook shank to be an extension of the leader. Mustad Sneck pattern hooks were the preferred design 50 years ago, but they’re no longer available in America; the same Eagle Claw Aberdeen pattern hooks I use for ice fishing work quite well...

I like to use a slip bobber on this cane pole rig. The slip bobber drops to the bottom of the line, just above the sinkers and the bait, every time you lift your bait from the water. Any type of bobber stop works; a clip-on bobber also works…

The cane pole length usually produces a much better hooking angle, and I believe the long shank hooks are easier to remove from fish that are released.

Around the 4th of July, the walleyes in the lakes I fish head for the offshore reefs and deeper water, and I put the cane pole away until next year…