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deja vu

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About deja vu

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  • Birthday 12/07/1941
  1. These comments may be off topic, but maybe not, since the posters are pro-staffers. Otter said: Quote: In most cases, of all the fish I've seen come to my boat, a very small percentage of them have the hook "buried". When and if that happens, the line gets cut and the fish is on its way. Northlander said: Quote: Too many people try to dig out a hook rather than cut the line. Im not that cheap. If more people just cut the line we wouldnt lose a lot of the fish that die. These gentlemen apparently believe that all you have to do is “cut the line”, and “the fish is on its way”. Please, tell me how this obvious miracle comes to pass? My common sense tells me that a walleye with a hook “buried” in its gullet is a soon-to-be-dead walleye, even if its gills are not torn. This fish is going to starve to death. My experience confirms this… I’ve never caught a walleye with a hook in his gullet; I’ve never heard of anyone else catching a walleye with a hook in its gullet. How about you? How is this fish going to get food from its mouth to its stomach, if the pathway is obstructed by a hook with a short snarl of mono leader attached to it? Does anyone really believe the fish’s stomach acid is going to eventually ‘dissolve’ a steel hook and plastic leader? Or that the fish is going to somehow slough off the hook and leader, and spit it out or discharge it naturally? Take a look at the size of a fish’s anal hole the next time you catch a nice one… Tell me, please, how a corroded hook and a snarl of mono leader are going to be passed through that opening… Otter estimates that only “a very small percentage” of the fish he catches swallow the hook. My percentage is probably a lot smaller than Otters, because I use shorter leaders and larger long-shanked hooks. But it still happens… When a nice walleye swallows the hook, and I can’t legally keep it, I look in the fish’s mouth to see if the point and the barb of my 1 or 1/0 Aberdeen or Sneck pattern hook is exposed. If it is NOT exposed, and I can’t expose it with a minimal amount of tweaking, then I carefully nip the leader from the eye of my long-shanked hook and return the fish to the water to die… just like Otter and Northlander. If I can see the exposed point and barb of the hook, I use a special magnetized nipper to clip off the point and barb of the hook, so I can pull the hook out from the eye end… OR, I might use the nipper to clip off the shank of the hook as close to the bend as possible, then use a long-nosed pliers to clamp on the point and barb end of the hook and remove the embedded portion. Now, that fish may still die of infection or numerous other causes, but I believe it’s got a much better chance of living with the obstructing hook removed. Lots of confidential information revealed in this thread, about leader lengths and what to do with fish that swallow the hook… I have one final question for you… After you put your bait on the hook, do you have a special way of spitting on it before you drop it in the water?
  2. Quote: When using a shorter snell, in most cases, this almost always means giving the fish no line and typically a much more aggressive hook set. I certainly agree with the first part of your theory. But the "aggressiveness" of the hook set is entirely within the control of the fisherman, isn't it? So, if you drop the tip of your rod when you feel the 'tic', then set the hook... Using my theory, the live bait is going to slow down and drop slightly, and the attacking walleye (theoretically, of course) is going to move from a position level with the bait to a position slightly above the dropping bait, in a much better position to be hooked when I immediately set the hook. From my point of view, fishermen using your rig wouldn't even know the walleye was there until it swallowed the hook... The truly "aggressive" hook set would be necessary when you have six feet or more of leader between your line weight and the hook. Also, fishermen using your rig would probably be using an Octopus pattern hook (excuse me... a 'walleye' pattern, exclusively designed by Lindy, or Cabelas, et al.), and if the fish has time to swallow that little short-shanked hook so deep that it nicks its gills, the fish will die. On the positive side, if you use genuine 'walleye' pattern hooks, you should also carry a special SST long-nosed pliers to recover your hook (a pliers recommended by Rufus Catchalot, only $25 at the appropriate gear display in the bait shop). So, in a roundabout way, I attempt to defend my initial thesis... (Pardon me, Northlander... I didn't see your post until I posted this one.)
  3. Quote: I don't think there is a relationship between leader length and hook mortality. Of course there's a relationship between leader length and hooking mortality... but it's probably subordinate to the hook design and the actual size of hook being used. There's quite a bit of data out there to support an opinion that released fish have a better chance of living if they're caught on long-shanked oversize hooks, i.e, Aberdeen, Sneck, Kirby, Carlisle, et al. (Not certain how Circle hooks would fit in this opinion, but then I don't know anyone who trolls or drifts for walleyes using Circle pattern hooks.) On the other hand, growing up on Rainy Lake and LOTW during the development and introduction of mono leader material, I can recall numerous trials of experimental trolling rigs developed to replace the ubiquitous Prescott Spinner rig. The results included many successful walleye trolling rigs in the 9" to 12" range (with nothing longer than 18"), and that was back when most fisherman used braided dacron, nylon, or linen baitcasting lines on their reels. The shorter the distance between the sinker and the snelled hook, the better the chances of hooking the fish, when the fisherman set the hook. Then the Lindy rig was 'discovered', and all that data was overturned... or was it? ____________________________ A few items in the bait shop display are actually made to catch fish; but most of the items are made to catch fishermen. Once upon a time, an expert fisherman was someone who could tell the difference; today, an expert fisherman is someone who expects a percentage of the gross...
  4. Slip-bobber fishing for walleyes in metro lakes in August? If you use worms or nightcrawlers, small perch and panfish will nibble up/steal your bait as fast as you can rebait your hook. Same is true for smaller 'crappie minnows' and smaller leeches... I like lively medium-size chub minnows(a bit larger than the largest 'crappie minnows'). Use the female minnows in your minnow bucket first, then give the males away before you head for home. If you discover that most of the minnows in your bucket are males, find another bait dealer... If you want to try leeches, buy the 'jumbo' size, or larger. If you don't get any walleyes, you still may end up with a nice string of crappies and larger bluegills. Good luck.
  5. Quote: In recent years, I've found myself fishing slipbobbers more and more, especially in the spring Bobber fishing from a boat for spring walleyes, crappies, or panfish, I use a cane pole. Hard to beat for simplicity and efficiency, if you’re anchored or gently drifting in less than 10-12 feet of water. Difficult to locate genuine cane poles nowadays, but the artificial cane poles work very well, actually much better… Cabela’s has a 16’ model for less than $10; remove the base 4’ section, and you have a 12’ pole, just right for early crappie and panfish outings… I prefer a braided line, tied to a mono leader about 18” or less in length. If you use a double hangman’s knot (also called a double UNI-knot) to properly tie the line and leader together, the leader becomes an extension of the line. Attach split shot sinkers below the knot, i.e., to the leader, not the line… (if you use a slip bobber, attach one small split shot above the knot, to keep the bottom of the bobber from banging the knot). A swivel isn’t really necessary; if you like to use one, install it at the top, between the cane pole tip and the braided line. Long-shanked, wide gap hooks, either snelled or tied to the leader using a tight hangman’s knot, work best for me; I want the hook shank to be an extension of the leader. Mustad Sneck pattern hooks were the preferred design 50 years ago, but they’re no longer available in America; the same Eagle Claw Aberdeen pattern hooks I use for ice fishing work quite well... I like to use a slip bobber on this cane pole rig. The slip bobber drops to the bottom of the line, just above the sinkers and the bait, every time you lift your bait from the water. Any type of bobber stop works; a clip-on bobber also works… The cane pole length usually produces a much better hooking angle, and I believe the long shank hooks are easier to remove from fish that are released. Around the 4th of July, the walleyes in the lakes I fish head for the offshore reefs and deeper water, and I put the cane pole away until next year…
  6. Sounds like your pup is acting like every pup I've ever owned. I was always told it is typical pup behavior... Even older dogs will often eat cat or dog feces. Sometimes a small spray bottle of 'taste deterrent for dogs' can be used to spray on objectionable items, if you're quick enough to spot and treat them before the dog finds them. Good luck.
  7. Quote: I use deet and the dog gets frontline as does the other 3 dogs in our group. Although we picked ticks all weekend only the people had ticks on them.....go figure. Frontline works so don't be afraid of it. Muriel claims that the flea and lice drug in Frontline will kill ticks in '24 to 48 hours'. BUT THE TICKS DROP OFF YOUR DOG AS SOON AS THEY RECOGNIZE THAT YOUR DOG IS TOXIC. Usually that occurs in your house, cabin, or tent, and those ticks that drop off are still alive and looking for some other warm-blooded animal... like you or your family! If you read the link to www.extension.umn.edu/ in my earlier post, you know the state entomologists recommend using 'permethrin', which really does kill the ticks. Don't take my word for it, check the various active ingredients on Wikipedia
  8. Ticks are really, really bad this year in northern MN (Koochiching and Beltrami Counties). A short walk in light brush near a grassy trail 10 days ago resulted in 200 ticks on my dog and 70 ticks on me! I apologize to all the vets peddling Frontline Plus for Muriel, but IMHO the 'fipronil' active ingredient in Frontline just doesn't do the job in that kind of tick infestation. Bayer (the aspirin people) compete with Muriel's Frontline Plus in the dog market. The Bayer product is called K9 Advantix, and it contains two active ingredients, 'imidacloprid' and 'permethrin'... the 'permethrin' is there specifically to kill ticks. Additionally, several insecticide mfgrs (Bio-Spot, Cutters, Sawyers) offer topical doses of just 'permethrin' to target only ticks. Permethrin is not a prescription drug, and it's not obscenely overpriced, but it is very potent and overdoses could cause problems with a dog. It cannot be used with cats. Question: If your dog is already dosed with Muriel's Frontline product, can you safely add an immediate dose of K9 Advantix or Cutters Permethrin? Or should you wait a month until the next dose is due, then not use the Frontline product? I wish my vet didn't have to augment income by both prescribing and then selling overpriced Muriel's Heartgard and Frontline products. It's a real conflict of interest in this situation...
  9. Quote: I was going over my dog for ticks after a run in the field and I found he has 5 or 6 "spots" on his groin area. They are red. They have a very defined outer ring that is dark red, the inner area is red or pink and there is a small (Contact Us Please) of dark red in the center. They are mostly the size of a dime or slightly smaller. The distinct red ring around the 'bite' area is a classic indication in humans of a 'bite' by a Blacklegged tick (deer tick), the Lyme Disease carrier. Have you had your dog tested for Lyme Disease, or vaccinated with the recently developed Lyme Disease vaccine? Click here for more information.
  10. Quote: ...Frontline!! ...high % Deet!! Thank you, but Frontline (fipronil is the active ingredient) and DEET are great for fleas and mosquitoes, but quite ineffective when there are lots of ticks around. Heartgard (sp?) and Frontline Plus are both made by Merial, and only sold through vets, or with a vets prescription. Vets make quite a bit of money selling these two prescription drugs, and some of them choose not to recommend non-prescription drugs like Permanone (permethrin), even though tick repellents containing permethrin are much more effective. Bayer competes with Merial in the heartworm, flea and tick repellent market. Bayer's K9 Advantix (imidacloprid and permethrin are the active ingredients) actually outperforms Frontline as a tick repellent because it does contain permethrin, but many vets don't carry or recommend it... I'm looking for a better solution, and Merial and most vets don't want to talk about it. Incidentally, I did find a link to an online article by the MN state entemology department, entitled "MN Ticks and their control". The state recommends we should "Use a repellent on dogs that contains the active ingredient permethrin.". http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/naturalresources/DD1013.html
  11. Quote: ...dashing in from storms, figuring things out on their own; a requirment to growing up. Man...I was lucky! Nothing worse than being overtaken by an afternoon squall... sitting hunched up by your little motor, still a quarter mile from shore, and suddenly overwhelmed by thunder, lightning and heavy rain. If you survive the first time, you learn to watch the weather closely for the rest of your life!
  12. Quote: ...At this point, I'm leaning towards going a bit further out of my original 200 mile range. More than likely we'll be heading out to Kabetogema lake. If you're going to go that far north, you should take a good look at Upper Red Lake... URL has just as many woodticks and mosquitoes as Kabetogama, but a lot more walleyes... If your boat works on Kabetogama, it will probably work on URL, and you won't need to hire a guide to find the best fishing. Good luck, whatever you decide to do...
  13. Quote: As a boy, I ruled the lake with an 1942 Evinrude 3 1/2 HP outboard; had to spin it 180 degrees for reverse. Sometimes I could see a wake. In the bow, my American Water Spaniels ears would flap in the wind...a bit. I hear ya... My starter motor was a 2.5 hp 1938 Johnson Sea Horse twin... I've been told it was the first outboard with an auto rewind starter. It was mounted on my mom's Dunphy cedar strip-built boat. Even had a fore deck that I could crawl under during a hailstorm. Standard equipment was three oars, two anchors and lines, and two or more life preservers. I learned to swim at about 6 years old... as soon as I could pull that rewind starter I was off fishing or exploring almost every day. Today, my favorite rig is an old 15' Grumman Sportcanoe with a 2 hp Honda 4-stroke... still carry oars, paddle, two anchors, and multiple life preservers. I think kids should learn how to use a sail and oars, before they start using an outboard motor. Raised two that way...
  14. What was the bottom depth where you were fishing, Chris, and how far off bottom were the fish you found?
  15. Quote: What size of hooks do people like to use when fishing with leeches, minnows, and crawlers? Short-shanked hooks end up deeper in the fish's mouths, and are more difficult to remove without killing the fish than are long-shanked hooks. A number of catch-and-release and slot limit studies have confirmed that short-shanked hooks kill more fish than long-shanked hooks of the same size. And long-shanked hooks are definitely much easier to carefully remove if you intend to release the fish... Long-shanked hooks also help to properly align the sharp point of the hook, when you strike a biting fish. This is especially true when using fine leader material... I'm primarily a walleye fisherman, although I occasionally fish for crappies. I use the largest hook size I can get away with... Sometimes I carefully bend the point outward with smaller sized hooks to increase the gap and improve hooking odds. When ice fishing, I tend to use Eagle Claw Model 202EL extra light wire Aberdeen pattern hooks exclusively. I believe that these fine wire hooks keep my minnow alive and active longer in extremely cold water. In the winter, I use #1/0 size hooks for large (4+") minnows, #2 hooks for large crappie minnows, and #6 for the very smallest minnows. Fishing for walleyes during open water periods, I prefer the #1/0 size discontinued Mustad Sneck kirbed hooks. Extensive tests by walleye fisherman on Rainy Lake during the late 1940s and 1950s confirmed that this hook style was superior to the larger Carlisle hooks then furnished on the famous Prescott spinners. Sneck style hooks are still available with some difficulty from Mustad Australia. Good luck.
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