Fertilizing tip - not having to mow every 3 days in the spring......

[LwnmwnMan2]

I figured I'd post this idea for all you guys that want to fish / enjoy something other than the chore of mowing every 3 days.

If you can at all do it, don't use the national brands' fertilizers.

When you look at the numbers xx-xx-xx in the fertilizer, chances are, the first number (Nitrogen) is going to be 20 or higher.

The second number (Phosphorus) SHOULD be zero, since most communities around Minneapolis / St. Paul have 'outlawed' Phosphorus due to it helping algae growth.

The last number (Potassium) helps the root system, which is when you buy a winterizer fertilizer, the numbers will be more along 5-0-20.

In this area, generally speaking, we don't need a large amount of Nitrogen. Nitrogen is what's causing your grass to grow to the point of needing to mow it every 3 days.

When you don't mow it every 3 days, and the grass gets long, that's what's causing your thatch.

I've switched to a 10-0-20, 10% iron.

This means that instead of a 25-0-10 (roughly) like the national brands I'm putting down less than 1/2 the amount of Nitrogen. The nitrogen basically turns into top growth on the grass, causing you to have to mow it every 3-4 days.

The 10% iron in the fertilizer I'm using causes the deep dark green without the growth. Also, the grass will hold it's green color longer when there's a lack of rain fall. With the high nitrogen, you need rainfall to cause the grass to green up, which also makes it grow again.

You'll have to hunt a little for the fertilizer I'm talking about, but it's out there.

Also, it's a 65% slow release blend, which means it doesn't all head straight to your grass as soon as you put it down.

Check the next time you're at Home Depot, or Wal-Mart, or the other big box stores. You'll see their products carry about a 5-10% slow release, which means that your fertilizer is basically going straight to the roots, and quickly to the leaf of the plant.

The slow release will stay in your soil much longer, giving benefit to your turf over 10-14 weeks, rather than the 5-8 weeks the national brand fertilizers will give you.

Look for fertilizers with lower Nitrogen numbers, but higher Potassium numbers, with some iron in it, if possible, and as high percentage of slow release as you can find.

You'll have a green yard with much less mowing time.

I DO have to put this disclaimer in though. You'll have to have soil samples performed as well, in case your yard's percentages are completely out of whack, which can be fixed with the right additives. Your local county extension office should be able to help you out with this.

[harvey lee]

I have soil samples done every few years to help with what fertilizer to apply. Those reports are great to find out what you need and what you dont.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Exactly.... that is the most important thing to a good, healthy turf.

Too many of the national brands just dump nitrogen to your yard, so the homeowner 'thinks' the fertilizer must be doing its job, look at how the grass is growing!!!

Truth be told, you MAY be having your lawn die a slow death.... or at least causing you more work than need be.

[Steve Bakken]

So what kind of brands are we talking about here, and where could one find them?

[LwnmwnMan2]

Look for a local Lesco, if you have one, or you can order the product online as well.

Also, if there's a "UAP" in your area, or John Deere landscapes.

You may even have a feed mill in your area, if you're in the outskirts, which may be able to have a 'custom blend'. However, you'll usually have to buy a pallet or two in order to do that.

I run out of Lesco.

If you REALLY want to skip on mowing, there's chemicals out there that don't allow the grass to grow, you'll have a green thick lawn that you'll have to 'trim up' once every 8 weeks. However, it'll cost you about $100 / month for the chemical on a 10k sq ft lawn.

[hotrod1]

Last year i used that same 10-0-20 product you mentioned on my lawn and it worked great! very good color. I'l post a picture tomorrow when i have time.

[LwnmwnMan2]

I guess I should clarify one thing though.

If you've got a crabgrass problem, you're going to be somewhat stuck. Most crabgrass preventers that are mixed with fertilizer are going to be higher in Nitrogen.

The only thing you can do then is try to find something that has a very high percentage of slow release. Either that, or use a regular fertilizer, like the 10-0-20, and find someplace that carries "Drive 75". Drive 75 is a post-emergent control for crabgrass, meaning you can kill crabgrass AFTER it's appeared.

Again, like most professional chemicals it's not cheap, but since it's a solid product that you mix with water, it tends to have a longer shelf life than chemicals that are already mixed.

This method will work if you're only trying to kill crabgrass along the driveway, curbs, sidewalks, against the edge of the house, spots here and there in the yard.

[fishinphilth]

i havea couple questions for you guys. What is the best thing to do with dog pee spots? And when should i start fertilizing and taking care of the lawn?

[LwnmwnMan2]

Quote:

---

i havea couple questions for you guys. What is the

best thing to do with dog pee spots

? And when should i start fertilizing and taking care of the lawn?

---

Try your best to get the dog to pee on a "mulched" area of the yard, or a back corner, whatever.

If you search the internet, there's many household remedies, whether they work.....

Anyways, the larger (and probably smaller) garden centers will also have many products to use as well. I'm a straight commercial property maintenance guy myself, so I don't run into the pee spots personally.

As for taking care of the yard, now it's a complete waiting game. Temperatures are going to hover at 40 or below all the way through next Thursday, with lows at night around 30 or lower, so below freezing.

Grass isn't going to really look good until the ground temps get to around 50+, so..... with that said.... it's looking more and more like a late, late spring as far as turf goes.

Fertilizing now is going to really do nothing, even if you put down the crabgrass preventer, chances are that, if we don't get some real warm temps real soon, you'll have to do it again. Worse part about that, is that the big national brands all have fertilizer with them, so if you have to put down the crabgrass preventer again, and you're using Scotts, or other brands sold at Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, Wal-Mart, etc., that you're going to be doubling the amount of fertilizer you put on as well. You'll be mowing 2 times / day, forget twice / week.

[uphill]

For dog pee spots I have used Lyme, in pellet form I hand spread it on the the really bad spots but I put some in the spreader and cover the area where the dog goes with some as well and that worked quite well last summer. I think I had to do it a couple of times and then I would just spot treat the bad spots. I am not an expert but it worked for me. Phil

[RussDaBuss]

I like this post!! I mow a lot and if I could cut that down I would be pleased. I called a local mill that sells fertilizer. He said the closest he has is 13 0 21 9 - he said the 9 was sulfur. He said they did not have anything with iron?? Sulfur/Iron the same result? Probably not. He also said the first number is used to determine the coverage.. Is this correct? Thanks for any help.

[LwnmwnMan2]

No, first number is the amount of Nitrogen. I suppose in a round about way, it's used to determine coverage, since you need to know how much Nitrogen you have in a product and how much to put down if you want 1 lb of Nitrogen / 1000 sq ft.

THE MOST IMPORTANT factor you need to ask him, is how much is slow release.

Our local mill here will blend anything you want, but there's ZERO slow release. This means that as soon as it rains, your fertilizer is going to be absorbed into the ground and 100% is going to be worked on by your grass. Sure, you'll have fast greenup, but you'll also have unbelievable top growth, which isn't the best for your turf.

And no, sulfur is not the same as iron.

[RussDaBuss]

He did say it was slow release. I hope he knew what he was talking about. I am going to stop by there and see what they say again. Otherwise look around town as well. Would really like to try this. Anyone know if a store in St. Cloud has??

Thanks

[Tippman]

The fertilizer I use from St. Martin Co-Op has sulfer in it as well and I was wondering more about it??

[LwnmwnMan2]

The sulfur is used to create the slow release.

[MuleShack]

Technically he was correct, as the 13 represents 13% nitrogen out of a 50lb bag = 6.5lbs of nitrogen in the bag. Using that for you application rate will give your your coverage.

Slow release technology

I second that about the slow release...only way to go. Lesco has some great products!

[NAGORSKI]

So I went to Lesco and got that fertilizer but what about crabgrass preventer. Is ther another fertilizer I need to get or is it in there?

[Shack]

Lesco!

I am happy to see people useing this brand. I have had very good luck with their seed. Nice color, good growth and very little weeds. I have heard they make mowers and other equipment. I use Menards ferilizer/crab grass preventer. It's cheap and it has seem to work for me over the years. About 3 years ago, I got a great deal on Lesco brand crabgrass preventer at a local store and used in mid season and it worked great. I did have to kill off area first with round up and reseed first. Good luck!

[MuleShack]

That particular package was just an illustration for how the slow release works.

There are 2 good choices for spring pre-emergent fertilizers.

DIMENSION 0.10% 19-0-6 30%PPSCU and a product called PRE-M 0.86% 19-0-11 30%PPSCU

Keep in mind that most Lesco dealers might have different variations on these two products...IE: lower nitrogen and higher potassium content or a different release rate.

I use the Dimension in the spring, as it has some post emergent tendencies to it also. The Pre-M will be slightly cheaper, but it also can color walks and drives as it has a yellow base.

The product on that link is a mid summer fertilizer to slow feed over the hot summer months.

[Mike #1]

Try switching over to organic fertilizers if you want even less mowing, it is also better for the lakes. I have had very good luck. I will make a post at the top of this forum.

[hotrod1]

how does organic fertilizer cut down the amount of mowing and how is organic phospherous better for lakes then any other phospherous in synthetic fertilizer?

[Mike #1]

The reason why it will cut down on the amount of mowing is because the fertilizer is slow release.

Synthetic fertilizers can and do leach away and will wash into our lakes, with an organic program, nothing goes to waste and nothing is washed away. Since I do not want to hijack this forum I have a post titled “Organic Lawn”