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Steve Bakken

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About Steve Bakken

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    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family

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  • Location:
    New Richland, MN 56072

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  1. Depends on where you live. North of the metro there's Kabekona Custom Boats near Bemidji, in the Metro area there's George's in East Bethel and if your in southern metro or south of there, we could sure take a look at it for you. Steve at Bakken's Boat Shop
  2. Rivets are to a boat what the 10mm bolt is to a car. Very rarely do we work on a boat without having to drill out and replace rivets Steve at Bakken's Boat Shop
  3. Now your boat rings a bell. We just had one similar to this in for an estimate two weeks ago. Only the second boat in thirty years we've had to turn away. Brilliant idea by Crestliner to fully weld the whole transom to the rest of the boat. (Insert sarcasm here). Might be possible, this one looks a little different from that other one, but it's hard to say without seeing it in person. The other one had to go back to the factory so they could put it in a jig to disassemble the sidewalls from the transom without them springing apart.
  4. The wood won't always appear rotten in the areas you check it. We have had many jobs where the center is soup, but the outer areas are rock solid. If the motor is flexing more than normal, that's usually a fairly sure sign. As for the electrolysis, this in itself won't make the transom weak. However, if it is so bad that it has corroded all the way through, then you are now allowing water to enter through the pinholes, which will of course accelerate the decay of the wood. Steve at Bakken's Boat Shop
  5. Unfortunately the sides have to be peeled up. We've seen many repairs where they use new wood that is narrower than the gunwales, but this puts stress on the wrong part of the aluminum and will eventually stress crack it. We have to peel them up very carefully, and then lay them back down after the repair. Most of the time the end cap covers far enough up that it doesn't show, otherwise we end up painting that part where the paint was damaged.
  6. Just a quick update. Got it home and pulled the plugs. Put a 50/50 of brake fluid and trans fluid down each plug hole. Came back after an hour (I should have let it sit for a couple days but curiosity got the best of me) grabbed the bottom pully with my bare hands and it turned over just like butter. Letting it soak some more now while turning it every couple days, just to make sure the bores are nice and clean. Here's a pic of when we pulled it out of the guy's barn and one after my son cleaned it up
  7. Yes that's the plan. Im not even going to attempt to start it when we go out there. Too many safety issues with tires, brakes, etc, not to mention doing more damage to the engine. This is a project car for my twelve-year-old and me so it will be a slow, patient project we will be doing after we trailer it home
  8. I haven't been out there yet. Going on Sunday to look at it. It was well maintained and ran when he put it in the shed, so I don't anticipate it to be seized, just VERY dry
  9. So I just got the opportunity to buy a low mileage '78 Calais from my old high school friend. Ran great when he parked it but the engine hasn't turned for twenty years. Aside from the obvious fluid changes, fresh plugs, etc, what would be the best procedure to free up and rotate the engine so I don't cause more damage?
  10. There is no pinging under any condition. Compression is 9.7-1 so I run at least 92 octane. I checked the timing and the distributor is tight and right at 8 degrees btdc where I had it before. The mechanical Advance is moving freely. I only have the plugs tapped at .045 which I believe is factory spec and where I had the old ones at too. I did put the old cap and rotor back on to eliminate the possibility of thos parts being bad. Spark seems strong. It jumps 3/4" when I pull the wire off. Gonna pull out the ignition module and have it tested. If that and all else checks out good, I guess I'll have to pick up another set of plugs and give that a whirl
  11. I should have thrown out a bit more info at the beginning. It's a '76 block with HEI. the carb is a Quadrajet from Year One for a 1970 442. I have adjusted the idle mixture as rich as they will go, and the idle speed is at 400 RPM's but with a fairly healthy cam and exhaust, its still a bit on the lean side. It has always ran great for the last ten years but I thought I would try a bit cooler of a plug to see if I could band-aid the lean idle. I just don't see how two steps colder would affect the actual way it runs. The spark should be the same, just the actual temp of the plug itself should be a bit cooler, right?
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