96trigger Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Hi boys, I bought a used switchback XT, and when I draw it back it feels a little bit weird. When I anchor, the string is touching the side of my face. On my old bow, it was up right next to it, but not really touching it with any pressure. It feels weird. Also, when I look through the peep sight, I don't feel like its ligning up right, it feels like the peep and anchor are too low. Is this because it's not adjusted for me? I'm assuming thats the problem and that I'll have to take it in and get it fit to my anchor point and set the peep to my eye level. Am I going to have to get used to the string being against my face? Or will this maybe get taken care of when I have the peep adjusted? I feel like that will make me flinch upon relese.I also need to buy new arrows. I'd like to stick with the 100 grain tips. I don't need expensive carbons, but I don't want the cheapies either. I've used carbon xpress and had pretty good luck. How long should they be with a 29 in draw? Also, I've been cutting my own with a pipe cutter, I read that thats not good for the carbon arrow, but I haven't noticed anything bad about it yet. I'm sure that I'll get a wealth of info, thanks in advance. Like to keep this page going, it gets a little bit slow during the offseason. I'd love to take the bow out turkey hunting but I don't think that I'll feel comfortable with it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoot Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Yep, it sounds like you have a set up that's not quite right for you (yet). It sounds like the drawlength is too long for you and the peep's not aligned right for you (two seperate issues). First you'll need to get the correct drawlength. The Switchbacks don't have an adjustable drawlength so you'll need to get a different module put in it so it fits your drawlength (I'm pretty sure they aren't adjustable, are they?) As far as the peep goes, once you have the correct drawlength try this- close your eyes, draw your bow, come to your normal anchor. Get good and set in this position. Then, open your eyes and look at your pin. DO NOT move your head or body. How does the peep line up? Adjust it down if it's too high or up if it's too low. Do this several times so when you come to your anchor point and open your eyes your peep is perfect without having to move anything.Not sure on the arrows as far as a pipe cutter.Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96trigger Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 I should probably restate that the anchor point is OK. its where the string is that is a little bit bothersome. I shot bows before I purchased and my drawlength was 29in, it was by far the most comfortable for me. However, this bow has a string loop, with gives it another 1/2 inch, that might be a problem. You can't adjust the drawlength on the Switchback, and I don't want to buy a new cam. So I'll have to make due. Is it really that important to use a string loop, I never did before, to be honest, I don't really like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghotierman Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 The string loop is adding a bit to the drawlength..thus the string on your cheek. If you'd rather go without, thats your choice. The loop is helpful in preventing string twist, and wear and tear on the string serving...but it needs to be factored in to drawlength. If there is no post adjustment on the cam....eliminate the loop and see if it still fits your DL. The advice on the peep was right on..that's the technique I was trained in and used in our shop.As for cutting carbon arrows....a high-speed saw is best. you would be better off with a dremel type tool or other high speed cutter. You may be cutting okay with the pipe cutter, but without a perfectly clean edge, you risk the arrow's spine and it could potentially shatter. Also the twisting of the pipe cutter with pressure may compromise or weaken the shaft. There is also the carbon fiber/dust factor. Most pro-shops have a table saw with high speed carbide blade that can cut the arrows cleanly and accurately...it's a quick service and cost is reasonable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delmuts Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 good info. one other thing; if you glue the inserts in your self! take a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, and clean the inside of the saft until it comes out clean. then let dry. del Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deitz Dittrich Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 96- is there any way you can get someone to take a picture of you at full draw and post it on here?... then I can help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96trigger Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 I could ask my wife, but then she'd know I bought a new bow. I'm going to take it into an archery shop soon and have then take a look at what I need. I don't like the peep so I'm gonna see about a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deitz Dittrich Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Ok.. well the offer still stands.. we can learn a lot from pictures at full draw.. make sure to have an arrow in it.. and aimed at something safe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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