Blazer Auto 4wd button no workee

[TTfromBlaine]

Can anybody tell me were to start trouble shooting? today I tried my auto 4wd button but all I got was just a flashing lite and then it would go back to 2HI by itself, the same thing happened when I tried to go to 4HI I did not try 4LO.

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

ICE-DOG1 OUT.

[anyfishwilldo]

Sounds like the shift motor on the transfer case. Common that they quit working. Climb underneath and feel the side of the T/C while someone else shifts to see if it is moving. Another possibility would be the vacuum system that engages the front end. My guess, T/C motor though.

[Shawnny B]

Amazing another person with a Sh*&y Blazer with the 4 wheel button out! Mine started acting up last year and then this summer it Died totaly on me. Worthless POS!

ShawnnyB

[huntnfish]

I have a 98 and have had similar problems, but I think it was because I wasn't in drive. When I shifted to drive it went in fine.

On a side note, what other problems are everyone having? My odometer doesn't work, wipers quit, and my turn signal relay clicks. I haven't tried fixing the odometer, but got the wipers working good again. The turn signal is a shorted wire in the steering column but I haven't gotten the ambition to tear into that yet. If anyone is having problems with their wipers not working all the time on a chevy the fix is very easy. Take the cover off the front of the wiper motor and disconnect the connector. You will need a torx screwdriver for this. Take out the circuit board and resolder the solder joints on the big connector and your wipers will work fine.

I do agree with Shawney. These blazers are POS's. You couldn't give me another one.

[jwhjr]

I know that the switch itself is prone to going bad as well.

[Shawnny B]

Well, lets see I also have a 98 and the rear motor had stopped working, I fixed that. We have redone the entire front end, Yup shocks, brakes, ball bearings, tie rods, you name it I bet its been replaced if its in the front end, and guess what. IT needs it again. F#(&*$# POS!!! Hmm What else, The odd does still work has 169,000 on it, we have replaced the heater core, power window motor. Im sure there is more that I have replaced but I just cant think of it. I was told that the 4X4 was something to do with a solinoid, is this the motor that your talking about?

Maybe Air will pop in with some answeres like let someone steal it!

OH the door doesnt stay shut all the way on the drivers side on my POS, well wait, thats the wifes old POS, she is now driving my 97 Grand Am with 156,000 Miles on it, Oh and my 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer, Yeah that has 90,000 Miles on it, hehehe Can you tell we like to drive? The blazer was purchased with 60,000 on it the lancer was brand new and the grand am had 85,000 on it.

OH yeah, I also have the (Contact Us Please) clickin from the turn blinker, but if you put another source of power on to it, such as a break or the actual blinker it stops right? I figured it was the actual assembly in the steering colum, looked it up it was near 200 buckaroos!

Im sure there is more to talk about but Imma go build a snowman with my daughter

ShawnnyB

[beer batter]

ShawnnyB,

Sounds like we must have purchased vehicles off the same assembly line. Replaced the motor (yes the whole motor), octopus valve (feeds the fuel injectors), starter (2 times), main flywheel after a starter took 2 teeth out of it, that solenoid for the 4wd, who knows what I'm forgetting.

POS is right. Dumped it for $5k, after paying $18k and sinking nearly $7k into repairs over 5 years.

If I remember, that 4WD solenoid wasn't too bad though. Only costed around $250 for the job which was a bargain compared to the other repairs I was used to.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Quote:

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Maybe Air will pop in with some answeres like let someone steal it!

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I know just the nieghborhood!!

TT I kneed to know the year.

I'll do some checking tonight and post some ideas. Sometimes the testing can get a little complicated (i.e. strike with hammer ) but I may be able to give you a couple of things to try quick.

[huntnfish]

I think the blinker clicking is the wire harness coming from the switch. I saw the magic smoke come out of the column one day and once the magic smoke leaves it is impossible to get it back in. I have also rebuilt the entire front end of mine. The odometer hasn't worked for a couple of years. I used to be able to bang on the dash and make it come on and get a quick look at the mileage but that doesn't work anymore. I talked to the service manager at the chevy dealership and he knew exactly what I was talking about, the part number for the whole dash and the price off the top of his head so I think it is pretty common occurance. My rear washer fluid also doesn't work. It will be going down the road very soon. Whenever someone is riding with me I tell them to get their seatbelt on because I won't be braking if a deer steps out.

[Craig_S]

I've got a '96. Things fixed: Transfer case solenoid, two fuel pumps, rear hatch leaks, and rear wiper doesn't work. Oh yeah, the kid hung by his hands on the side view mirrors when he was three. Replaced one and used plastic welder on the other. The glued up one is more solid than the replacement. Which was spendy.

But at 248,000 miles it owes me nothing. And it's still ticking! It now becomes a challenge to shoot for 300,000.

I agree, it's not the best vehicle in the world, but from $24,000 new, and wifey abused it for 10 years, I'm not complaining. Now I get to drive the junker. And if it leaves me on the side of the road, It goes to the crusher.

Funny thing is I just replaced it with a 2006 Mercury Mariner fully loaded for $26,000. And I find them very comparable vehicles. Not much of a mark-up in 10 years. Plus the Mariner is all leather, moon roof, ya-da ya-da yada. And the Mariner gets much better gas mileage. Around 25. Compared to 18 on a good day for the Blazer.

Craig

[Macgyver55]

My brother has a 96 also. He is in the same situation though, it owes him nothing! Sounds like his experience has been different than the others here though.

Things fixed...intake manifold at 165,000, (by me). Other than that I've only done regular brake work and tune up stuff for him. The poor thing was in a fairly good wreck when his son started driving at 16 so there was some front end work done by some one else but was covered by insurance. It still has the original (knock on wood) fuel pump, transfer case solenoid and for some unknown reason the oil cooler lines still dont leak enough to be a concern, and everything on it still works! He keeps up on the maintenance though as far as grease and oil changes and I make sure that he changes the fuel filter often. I'm a stickler about fuel filters and insist on changing them every 12000 miles and never letting the tanks go below 1/4. That may be the reason I haven't had to put a fuel pump in any of our cars in my family (all GM). I have a Lumina 220,000 with original pump, two Cavaliers 170,000 each both with original pumps and my Tahoe has near 140,000 with the original.

[Shawnny B]

Yeah that was another one I forgot the fuel Pump! Thanks Air, Ive been thinking of trying to get one from a junk yard cuz that darned clickin from the turn signal just drives me batty, after awhile It doenst do it that much,I didnt see any magic smoke though....wonder if the wifey did.... . Anyhow Thanks Air, You ROCK! btw, not to change the subject but you goin to the burntside bash-a-roo?

ShawnnyB

[JScott]

It all sounds so familiar. My '88 had the auto four wheel engage go out and it turned out to be the vacuum. At least that was an easy fix. Along the way it was this and that constantly. Worse riding truck I ever had, and WAY under powered. Later, the intake went bad and the motor was fried. My friend's five year old Jimmy just had the same problem. After all these years the same old problems still keep coming up with these GM vehicles.

Now, I'm on year seven with my Tundra (135,000 miles. Still rides like the day I bought it, never been stranded, plenty of power, routine maintenance, that's it. I see where Toyota will overtake GM this year in overall sales. There's a shocker.

[TTfromBlaine]

Sorry Air, it's a 99 4dr. if that matters, geez guys I havent done anything except basic maint brakes/shocks/tires. although I did replace the front wheel bearings at a 140k. I just hope it keeps me going for awhile cause I need all my cash for fishin . isnt there a electrical connecter that hooks up to the t-case that may be corroded? and where is the vacuam deal somebody mentioned? I just got my floor jack back from the ex today so I thought I might crawl around under there tomorrow on my birthday and see what I can see

[ice_it_06]

Check your transfer case motor.......to test it,remove the fuse marked TCCM for 5 minutes....plug it back in. WITHOUT starting the engine, cycle the key on-off 5 times.....this erases the "power failure to memory" code from the TCCM caused by pulling the fuse. You want to start off with a CLEAN memory in the TCCM module. Try shifting into 4 hi..... see if it works. When the t-case shifts into the 4 wheel mode, the vacuum switch causes the front axle actuator to lock in the front axle....no shift..no axle lock-in.

Your lights will not indicate the 4wd is working because the sensor or switch that activates the lights is on the front axle actuator.

Put it in 4 low, If it is locked then you can narrow it down to the front axle or the vacuum switch/relay or lines going to it. Check the harness connections to the vacume relay (unplug and reconnect) I think is located under battery area running to the actuator. Check connection @ firewall and the dash switch itself.

Pretty common problem but I'm not sure what model years are set up the same but I think OBD I is like pre 95 so check your codes if it has thrown one.

[TTfromBlaine]

Thanks ice it, that will give me a place to start, ya know I did have the battery replaced this summer at FF, they used a battery and plugged it in at my cig lighter to maintain my radio codes so I wouldnt have to go to the dealer to fix that.. this may account for the power failure to memory. I'll start with the fuse deal and see were I end up and keep you posted thanks

[castindad]

any info on chevy s 10 1999 power window motor would sure be appreciated. how big of a deal is it to maybe change on and is it advisible to get one from junk yard and what is the price? only 75000 mile on chevy blazer casdtindad thanks

[ice_it_06]

You can get a OEM new for about $90 I think with a new regulator, a reman for around $60 and a yard part for $30.

They are not that difficult to replace once you get the panel off. Some are a breeze and others a pain, I'm not familiar with a S-10. Room to work and good fingers are the trick (lol) Disconnect the wire harness & regulator and pop motor rivets. Most motors are riveted on but you just run sheet metal screws in on the new one.

[castindad]

tyhjanks ice it may give it a try this summer castindad

[Jeremy airjer W]

I think thed first thing that you need to find out is if the front drive shaft is turning. If it is then we can eliminate everything except the front diff actuator. If its not then we need to find out if its the transfer case motor or the switches.