Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

  • 0

98 GMC K-1500 Temp is fluctuating


Sutty

Question

15 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

You'll want to suck out some of the coolant with a turkey baster or something before you take off the old thermostat. Otherwise you take off the old thermostat and coolant goes all over since the thermostat is just a bit lower than the top level of the radiator. Squeeze the main hose going to the theromstat to get the coolant out of it too.

Use a clean plastic jug to keep the coolant in and then you can put it back in when done. I suppose you could just drain part of the radiator but sometimes that isn't convenient to get to without making a mess either.

ccarlson

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Be carefull. I forgot to mention that after I changed the thermostat, I put about 30 gallons of fuel in and put the new 07 tags on. Then on the way to town the tranny went. You just know that this is all related.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Are you sure its just not low on coolant. I would check around the intake usually right where it meets the head. These are real common gaskets to leak. Also there is a quick connect fitting on the passenger side of the motor (if I remember Right) these are prone to cracking and leaking.

Then again it could just be the thermostat. Tyoically they just stick shut or open thats the only reason I questioned it.

Also If the vehicle still has dexcool (GM exteneded life coolant) now would be a good time to flush it out. Especially if the vehicle has been run low on coolant or if the vehicle is nearing the expected life of the coolant. These systems can be converted to the regular (green) coolant to save you a few bucks and with out any ill effects (would highly reccomend using a flush machine to do the conversion, Dexcool and regular coolant DO NOT mix well!!!)

Have fun Sutty!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I had it flushed twice last year with the green stuff in. First time it didn't seem to clean it all out ended up with some brownish colored coolant. It has stayed green this time... It is a little low right now. I checked it after a twenty minute drive and it is about at the cold level in the resevoir.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I brought it in yesturday and had it pressure tested. They didn't find any leaks, they suggested bringing it in cold next time maybe it will show than. I didn't do the thermostat yesturday since I was sitting in the shop. Going to put it in today in the daylight. Probably lose all my coolant on the way to ortonville tonight....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

what Airjer said, my '98 with 140000 started to fluctuate badly, check coolant, a little low, checking around under the hood an noticed a little coolant around that intake on the passenger side, grabbed the hose, and boom! that fitting disintigrated. Of course under pressure. Very bad design. It took many hours to remove all of the pieces of thread left in the block. Fun times.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Also check and make sure the sending unit wire isn't exposed to a warm part on the motor. Had that happen one time also, was resting to close to the motor making the temp guage act up. More than likely it's just needing a new thermostat.

Good luck in your repair.

Farmer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Thanks for the tips. So far it is holding steady. I replaced the thermostat last friday (three trips to the parts store....) The guy had a pretty good laugh at me. 1st trip was for the thermostat second trip was for a deep socket my deep sockets were not quite long enough to grab the nuts... than the third trip was to get a smaller socket I thought I needed a 9/16 and it was 1/2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
    • Blessed Christmas to all.  
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.