Thrust washer and prop

[Scoot]

Put a different prop on my boat yesterday. The prop seems to fit fine, but when I put the thrust washer on, the slots in the washer don't reach the grooves in the drive shaft so it sits at the end of the prop without actually fitting into the grooves of the drive shaft. Is this ok?

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Scoot

RodsbyEngel: custom made fishing rods

[Surface Tension]

I don't think so. What the year, make and HP of your outboard and whats the prop id numbers or hub code on the prop.

[delmuts]

scoot. before you do anything, check to make sure the prop is sliding over the washer! i had a problem with a rebuild that they had painted. it would not go on either. i wire brushed the paint off. ( with a cordless drill and a circular brush) the prop then would fit over the washer and the nut screwed down to the cross drilled hole. del

[rtwills]

as a related subject I just got a turning point stainless prop.They sent me the hub kit but no washer.will this prop take the same washer as the hustler aluminum that I used to have?

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If people weren't supposed to eat animals.
Why are they made out of meat??
FM Stickersl

[Surface Tension]

Scoot, After I read your post again it sounds like you put the thrust washer on after the prop? If so, it goes on before the prop.

[Surface Tension]

rtwills, I fairly certain you'd use the same thrust washer.

[Valv]

Whoaa, wait a minute.

Here's the order it gets installed:

First thrust washer (the large one with tapered hole) goes on driveshaft (be sure it's tapered the correct direction), then the propeller, then the lockwasher, then the nut and cotter pin (if available).

I think you put thrust washer backwards, and lockwasher won't fit over splines before nut.

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Val Vignati

www.kvesurplus.com
[email protected]

[This message has been edited by Valv (edited 08-18-2004).]

[Scoot]

OK, now I'm thoroughly confused. If the thrust washer goes on before the prop, why is there a recess at the back of the prop that fits it perfectly? It sure looks as if it the large, thick, splined washer I'm asking about goes on after the prop goes on. Am I wrong on this?
The way I'm putting it on is the way it was when I purchased the boat and the way it was when it came back from the shop after I had some work done recently.
Given what Valv said, the previous owner had it wrong, I've got it wrong, and the shop that just worked on it got it wrong- is this right?
Also, if the thrust washer goes on before the prop, why is there a recess the exact size and shape of the washer at the back of the prop (i.e. in the spot where you'd fit the thrust washer into AFTER you've put the prop on)?
Thanks all for the info and input. I'm not trying to be argumentative or disregard your input. I'm just confused and it doesn't seem that all of those who have worked on the boat would have gotten in wrong in the same manner.
Valv, my guess is that you'll say I still have it in the wrong order. Also, I didn't notice that the thrust washer was tapered. I assume the outside of the washer is tapered (obviously the inner, splined part can't be), why the taper? Seems that everything is cylindrical and not getting bigger or smaller from front to back.
Confused...

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Scoot

RodsbyEngel: custom made fishing rods

[Valv]

Scoot,

it was tough to describe it without seiing it.
If your prop has already the taper on it, you will not need thrust washer at end.
If you look at driveshaft, you will see it's tapered at some point (toward gearcase), that's where the prop rests.
I mentioned just in case you installed it backwards, which would have set prop approx 1/4" toward splines.
You are correct (and everybody else) on lockwasher which goes after prop installs.

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Val Vignati

www.kvesurplus.com
[email protected]

[Surface Tension]

Thrust washer means just that. The prop's forward thrust pushes against the thrust washer. The thrust washer is splined and bottoms out on a shoulder on the prop shaft. The flat face of the thrust washer goes toward the prop.

Now it's possible you don't have a thrust washer at all and your calling it a thrust washer.
Thats why I asked what make,model and HP outboard you have!

[Scoot]

ST,

I just got lost in all the details and forgot to reply to your questions.

It's a 2000 115 4st Yammy. Prop ID or hub info- I'm a little lacking in that are. I'll see what I can see tonight.

[Dusty]

Scoot
I just put a stainless prop on my 115 yammy and had the same issue as you. I called the prop shop where I bought it and they said it was OK to mount the washer and nut that way, that is the washer not sliding onto the splines. I have put 15 20 hrs on it since with no problems. I also have talked to another person who had the same situation and he hasn't had a problem either.

[Scoot]

OK, I've got one more question:
When I put the large, splined thrust washer on after the prop goes on, I also put on a tiny little washer, then the nut. However, when I have this tiny washer on I can't quite get the nut down far enough to get the cotter key in place. Can I go without the tiny washer and have the nut run right up against the thrust washer? If I leave the tiny washer off, the nut will go down far enough so I can get a key in place.

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Scoot

RodsbyEngel: custom made fishing rods

[Dusty]

Sorry, I didn't have that problem, Although I had to crank the nut fairly tight to get the cotter pin in

[Surface Tension]

OK, one more time..The thrust washer goes on BEFORE the prop.

What your calling a thrust washer is really a splined spacer.

I'm betting your old hub/prop is 4" and the replacement is 4.5" Go measure them both. If the replacement hub/prop is 4.5" then don't use the splined spacer. While your there look at the prop shaft, you'll see the thrust hub sitting there.

Heres the order of parts on the prop shaft. Thrust washer, prop, splined spacer {or not), washer, castle nut and cotter pin.
The castle nut should be snug but not tight.

[Scoot]

I think I'm gettin' to ya, huh?

I appreciate your patience and help. I realize I'm pretty dense when it comes to mechanical stuff. I'm using the same lingo that the dude at the shop used, but apparently it's wrong. I realize now the language mistake I was making. However, I think I'm finally clear on what I need.
Thanks all,

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Scoot

RodsbyEngel: custom made fishing rods

[Surface Tension]

No your not getting to me and your doing fine, well better then thing-a-ma-bob, whacha-ma-jig and Du-hickey any way.

You should be good to go now, unless your Johnson rod needs replacing.

[klbowe]

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/service/service.asp

Go to the above HSOforum
Highlight Parts and Service
select view owners manuals
Enter 2000 outboard 115hp
go to page 94 of 124

There you will find a picture that clearly shows how to install your washers and prop.

If you do not have all of the correct washers they can be ordered as a kit.
40 bucks I think.

[ChuckN]

I know what you are talking about. I had a plastic washer that is grooved to fit the prop shaft splines. An SS prop I had would not allow the plastic washer to reach the splines, and the fit was not perfect. As long as the washer is there between the prop and the lock nut, you should be ok. I used it for years like that and never had a problem. Just my experiences...

[This message has been edited by ChuckN (edited 08-18-2004).]