I have been trying to find a short in my trailer lights, which seems to have appeared after I replaced the lights with the same brand lights and re-wired and re-decked the trailer. All of my wires coming from the lights appeared to be shorted to each other. Going all the way back to the lights themselves, using an ohmeter I find continuity between the tail, stop, and ground circuits when the bulb is in. When I remove the bulb the continuity goes away. A guy at work says I have to remove the bulbs in order to find shorts, that the bulbs themselves provide continuity. Can someone verify this, and explain how the lights can work when there is continuity between both the circuits and the ground?
Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday.
What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures.
Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets. Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome. You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.
24V 80lb. 60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat. They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to
not being the anchor person any more). With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely
that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing.
I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the
new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
Dang, new content and now answers.
First, congrats on the new boat!
My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V. 80 might be tops? I’m partial to MinnKota.
How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.
All weather or just nice weather?
Casting a lot or bait dragging?
Bobber or panfish fishing?
Spot lock? Networked with depth finders? What brand of depth finders?
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GoodToGo
I have been trying to find a short in my trailer lights, which seems to have appeared after I replaced the lights with the same brand lights and re-wired and re-decked the trailer. All of my wires coming from the lights appeared to be shorted to each other. Going all the way back to the lights themselves, using an ohmeter I find continuity between the tail, stop, and ground circuits when the bulb is in. When I remove the bulb the continuity goes away. A guy at work says I have to remove the bulbs in order to find shorts, that the bulbs themselves provide continuity. Can someone verify this, and explain how the lights can work when there is continuity between both the circuits and the ground?
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