Diesel transmittion fluid change

[MIKE IN lINO III]

It's time to get my fluid changed in a F250 Diesel, do I bring it to the dealer and pay the $500 plus or can I bring it to a local shop? All the oil changes have been at the dealer.

If I can bring it to a local shop, does anyone know of a reputable shop in the Lino area that deals with Diesels?

Mike

[Whoaru99]

Whew...

$500 sounds like a lot, but maybe it takes a special fluid?

FWIW, sometimes paying more now is worth a lot if you have problems with the tranny down the road. All service done by dealer, etc...

[efgh]

If you changed all the fluid, radiator, trannie, power steering transfercase and rear ends, the cost should not be any where near 500 dollars, I would take my business else where.

[Ufatz]

STOP! For goodness sake do not go NEAR anybody who tells you it is going to cost $500 to change your transmission fluid. If you have been going to this business in the past my hunch is you have been getting really REAMED!!

Yes, have your transmission fluid changed regularly. I have it done every 30K and am now on 135,000 on my F250 and have never had a problem.

Do yourself a favor and stay away from that outfit! Makes me furious.

[iffwalleyes]

I just changed the tranny fluid in the Allison on my DMAX and it was right around $150 for fluid and filters. It shouldn't be as much as you say

[Powerstroke]

2 things.

If you've been getting your oil changed at a Ford dealer than that means you've been paying $100 every 5k miles?!?!?!? The oil costs under $50 and the filter is less than $15. All you need is less than an hour.

Secondly it is responsible to get a flush and fill at 30K miles if you tow regularly with your diesel but I wouldn't get one at 30K otherwise. Wait till 50 or 60K. I would got to a quality shop that isn't called jiffy or speedy or instant. Find a full-service shop. You'll still pay around $100 but not like the (Contact US Regarding This Word) stealership price.

Since you considered the stealership for your oil changes than that would lead me to believe you let them do your fuel filter changes too every 15k miles. This is a $30 filter and 10 minutes under the hood.

I hope they don't charge you for the lubricant too when they bend you over.

[upnorth]

I really question the flush theory. I had the tranny in my Ranger flushed and it hosed the tranny. I brought it in to a transmission shop and the first thing the owner tells me is that if thoes things worked he would have one, needless to say he doesn't. What he told me is that the flush just forces everything in your transimission through the filter and plugs the filter and that is what kills most trannies today. Best to drain the transmission best you can, change the filter and refill. This was advice from a pro.

[Valv]

To replace fluid in tranny it takes 2 gallons of ATF fluid, at $ 2.50/quart makes it around $ 25.00 depending on brand, filter kit with gasket is another $ 20.00 depending on part store (get rubber gasket, not cork). Labor involved, 1 hour at $ 100/hr (very expensive shop) it will total to approx $ 150.00 with tax.

Oil change it takes 2.25 gallons of oil (Powerstroke 7.3) at $ 7.00 (Rotella T 15/40 best oil you can buy, unless you have synth), filter $ 20.00 for a good Wix.

I personally would do oil change myself, I have over 2,000,000 miles with diesels (all brands) and best oil you can get is Shell Rotella T 15/40, no dealer will use good quality oil unless they are forced to and then charge a fortune for it. Yes you will mention warranty, but it will expire after a while, and the results of cheap oil will stay with you AFTER warranty is done.

My best suggestion is to find a good small service shop and use it, something you can trust and talk to them.

BTW, my current oil change is at 7500miles as prescribed by mfg, and at 198,000 miles my oil looks just darker than when new, after many 1000s of miles....but oh yess I am talking Cummins here, not International, sorry

[Powerstroke]

Powerstroke 7.3 is 14-15qts (3.75 gallons) but who's counting Val.

I totally agree with you Val. Everything you said is right on. I sold my Crewcab 4x4 diesel for "more economical" V-6 SUV and I regret it often. If they ever off a diesel in something other than a Jeep Liberty I will be very interested.

[Valv]

Sorry, I had all 4 diesels motors in past 2 years I forgot which is which....

Powerstroke, yes I saw your SUV, I was going to give you hard time, but I had mercy in front of the kids....

Nice rig though....and thank you for your purchase, as I said if it doesn't work let me know.

[MIKE IN lINO III]

I just called the Ford delaership in Roseville to varify the charges, $277.50,I called a place up by my house and they came in at $185.

I've been paying $79 for oil changes at the dealer but I think I will start doing them myself.

Mike

[gvt]

MIKE IN lINO III,

Regarding the oil changes, if you are willing to do the changes yourself I'd recommend synthetic oil, a by-pass oil filter, extended oil change intervals, and occasional oil analysis to verify the condition of the oil. I do roughly 10,000 miles on my '97 Chev with very good results on the oil analysis. It's much cheaper than going to the dealer. Also, winter starting is MUCH easier with 5W-40 synthetic.

[Valv]

Beware switching from dyno (normal) to synthetic, it might do more damage to your motor if you have many miles. You have to follow some rules before doing this.

The 6.5l chevy has very high blow by exhaust, it does color oil almost immediately, you can change the crankcase breether (which costs $ 60.00) and will help a little but still has a lot of contaminants, keep your oil changed constantly and use a very good filter.

[gvt]

Valv,

I'm going to need a little clarification on this one. What are you getting at?

"Beware switching from dyno (normal) to synthetic, it might do more damage to your motor if you have many miles. You have to follow some rules before doing this."

[Valv]

A straight switch between dyno and synthetic might damage your motor, and it's not suggested. You will have to flush engine with cleaners, then start with synthetic. I had very bad experiences with this and I will not do it on motors with some mileage. If you have just few thousands I don't think it will be a problem, but I had 3 motors going to "heck" after the switch, and one was a 1992 Corvette....