Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Question on Dog Vests for duck hunting


MUSKIE11

Recommended Posts

I have Black Lab and was wondering if any of you have an opionon on those Neopreme Dog Vests for duck hunting. I know that last year hunting late season it was pretty cold out and didn't seem like he was as eager to get in the water after a few retrieves. I'm wondering if this will keep him alot warmer, or if there is any negatives to getting one of these vests. thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the vests. Yeah, it helps keep the dog warm, but it also acts as a life vest for the dog. I've seen dogs that will go and go and go and borderline drown cuz they were tired.

Also, they act as protection if the dog is breaking through thin ice.

Be careful during the warmer early season to moniter your dog. These vests are warm, and if it's warm out your dog can get pretty hot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A long time ago I had a dog get his ribs pierced by landing on a cattail that a muskrat or something had chewed off just below the waterline when he went in for a retrieve. Since then I have learned to be much more careful when selecting a blind location to be sure it is clear of obstacles, and I started putting a vest on the dog for some protection against the bumps and bruises of the activity. Don't know if the vest would have deflected the sharp cattail, but I figure a little help is better than nothing. That was about 15 years ago, and I have had no repeats of that incident with any of the dogs since.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the vest and would highly reccomend them, keeps the dogs warm on those cold mornings and they do help them float.

Also breaks up the pattern a little, camo never hurts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used the vests for many years. They keep the dog warm, keep them cleaner and help deflect things that may poke or scratch. When it is really cold you can see the steam escaping from around the vest. Use the heavier ones instead of the 3mm thick ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 2 year old female yellow lab and she weighs in at 69 lbs. I have a Hodgman vest for her, but if I'm hunting day after day she tends to get rubbed raw in her front arm pit areas and along her belly where the vest stops. Anyone else experience this? She's got a real deep chest, so the vest fits wierd. Anyone have any tips for trimming the vest in the areas where it rubs her raw?

Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just trim the vest with a scissors. When you cut the stitching you can seal it up with Neoprene wader repair glue. Have not had any problems with the trimed vests.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bmc,

My female sounds about the same as yours with a barrel chest and weighing about 63lbs. I had to order a large vest because of her chest, but the rest of her body would have been a small size. We just cut the neoprene away until the whole thing fit snug and there was no spots that rubbed her. We used a scissors and just make sure you get smooth edges, no loose strands or jagged edges. I have a Cabela's brand vest and it showed right on the package how to do it.

Another positive of the vests is that it really protects female dogs' nipples. My female can get pretty cut up in the cat tails pheasant hunting, but once it gets cold enough for her very she never had any cuts at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not much better than a good neoprene dog vest. They keep the dog warm, adds floation and helps keep their chest protected while running through the thick stuff. the thing I like best about a vet is you have a place to grab your dog to help lift them into the boat. I just grab the front and back of the vest and lift my Lab into the boat.

Hodgman's deluxe vest has a tough coating over the neoprene so you dont' have to worry about your dog tearing the vest up. You can even get them for $20 if you don't care if they are a Hardwoods or Nat Gear camo. Man I can't wait to go hunting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a Cabela's vest and a 100# lab. He's got a huge barrel chest too, so I had to trim it. I actually got my wife to taylor it to fit him. She trimmed with scissors and sewed it up on her sewing machine. Fits great! Seams have held for 6 years of use now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone know of a source for vests that are sized for pointer shaped bodies? I have a GWP, deep chest, skinny waist. I have to overlap the velcro to the extreme to get it tight enough around the waist. I have a cabelas now that I trimmed, but it is wore out and need a new one this year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GoodToGo: I sell a lot of vests each year and have yet to run across any brand that has a different "cut" to them. Even at this past years SHOT Show in Vegas, all the vests I looked at were all a standard shape.

I would think your best bet would be to get the vest you like and cut the belly seam and trim the material on each side to fit the thinner body. Then get some Fireline and sew it back together. The Fireline holds a lot better than regular thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem getting a field vest to fit. I took the dog with me to Game Fair and went through vest until I found one that fit. I have had the same camo vest for duck hunting since I got the dog. I have thought about taking it to someone who sews canvas to have a handle sewn on the back to help the dog back in the boat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.