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what weight broadhead and what weight draw?

Bobb-o

By Bobb-o
in Archery - Bowhunting

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Pooh Experienced

Pooh

Posted
Posted

i fluxuate a bit with my weight. bout this time of year i go to about 70 lbs when hunting gets closer i back it down to about 63-65 because of the cool weather and the heavy clothes. i shoot 3 blade 100 grain satelites. i like um but the next set will be muzzys i liked them better.

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BLACKJACK Grand Master

BLACKJACK

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55 pound draw, carbons cut at 32", 100 grain Thunderheads. I like the replaceable blade broadheads because my rule is that once they hit the ground (or go thru a deer smile.gif ), I replace the blades, I want the sharpest blades possible.

Polar Bear, I used to shoot the 2219's with 125 grain broadheads, it was deadly. If I ever went after elk or caribou, I'd switch back.

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bigbucks Grand Master

bigbucks

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Quote:

55 pound draw, carbons cut at 32", 100 grain Thunderheads.

This pretty much matches my setup. I haven't measured my draw weight, but most likely 62-64, that's what's always been pretty comfortable for me. I usually crank it up until it's as much as I want to hold.

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Royce Aardahl Mentor

Royce Aardahl

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In a 300 indoor target round the fatter arrows are nice for cutting the line. Spot shooting is target shooting. I used to shoot the 2512 but switched to Fatboys this year. I think they are close to a 2312. For hunting I use Beman ICS 400's with a 75 grain 1 1/4 inch cut wasp jackhammer. 60 pounds and 28 inch draw. Hoyt Striker II. 2000 model. Puts the mighty whitetail down just fine.

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TomBow Rising Star

TomBow

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Don't worry about draw weight, just shoot what you can comfortably pull back, without having to do a lot of "gyrations". Stand as you would when you are shooting, you should be able to pull the bow straight back to full draw without moving the bow. When a deer comes by, you're not gonna get away with alot of movement and too heavy of a draw weight will cause extra movement. I see guys at the range that have to point the bow practically straight up when they draw--they are drawing too much weight in most cases, or they have learned to draw a bow incorrectly.

Broadhead weight depends on the arrows you are using. Heavier arrows (aluminums and heavier carbons with cresting wraps) will take a heavier head weight to properly balance the arrow for good broadhead flight. FOC is the front of center (distance from the center of the arrow shaft, lengthwise, to the point where the arrow balances) percentage. I use about a 11-12% FOC with my arrows and get great arrow flight. To calculate FOC, measure the length of your arrow, from the groove in the nock to the tip of the arrow, divide this measurement in two, then find the point where the arrow balances. Take the measurement between the center point and the balance point and divide this measurement by the total arrow length and this will tell you your FOC measurement. Too small of an FOC measurement will cause instability in the arrows flight.

Jackson's Archery HSOforum has calculators for various arrow manufacturers that you can use to calculate your estimated FOC. You can put in different point weights, feathers vs. vanes and other components and it will calculate total arrow weight. Check it out and Best of luck.

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Captain B.R.K Veteran

Captain B.R.K

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Bobb-o - like said earlier in a post= it is all dependent on the grain of arrow you shot for it to support a heavier head at the end!

I pull back 60#, shoot Easton Lightspeeds 400's and have 100 grain Steelhead mechanicals at the end of those arrows! Shoots straight everytime:)

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