Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Tying Leaders


CJH

Recommended Posts

So toying with the idea of making my own Flouro leaders. I have read about people using super glue on the knots in order to keep them tight. Has anybody done this and/or noticed any detriment/problems? Any difference in catch rate, vs non glue?

Thanks for any info, just kind of floating the idea around in my head.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You talking about making leaders with a snap and swivel, or adding flouro to your main line?

To add a leader you my main line I use the modified Albright knot.(easer for me to tie) A back to back uni is good too. Don't need glue for those.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never had trouble with fluoro knots and don't see any need to glue them. I use an 8 turn trilene knot, wetting it when pulling it tight and I've never had one fail that I can remember.

I think the easiest way to do it with leaders is just to tie a snap on the end of your main line (like the kind you'd use for a crankbait) and tie a barrel swivel or if using slow a slow death rig, a ball bearing swivel on the end of your snell. Just clip the swivel on your snell into the clip on the end of your main line(or bottom bouncer, walking sinker or whatever you're using for weight))and you're good to go. It's an easy system to use, it's efficient when you want to change leaders on the water and most importantly, it works very well.

No need to make it any more difficult than it has to be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never had trouble with fluoro knots and don't see any need to glue them. I use an 8 turn trilene knot, wetting it when pulling it tight and I've never had one fail that I can remember.

I think the easiest way to do it with leaders is just to tie a snap on the end of your main line (like the kind you'd use for a crankbait) and tie a barrel swivel or if using slow a slow death rig, a ball bearing swivel on the end of your snell. Just clip the swivel on your snell into the clip on the end of your main line(or bottom bouncer, walking sinker or whatever you're using for weight))and you're good to go. It's an easy system to use, it's efficient when you want to change leaders on the water and most importantly, it works very well.

No need to make it any more difficult than it has to be.

Thanks, that's exactly what I am doing, but I was using a Palomar knot. Good to know that the Trilene knots have held up and you haven't had any problems. The ability to change quickly, efficiently, and with however I want to design my snells/leaders is the appeal. Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto on the double uni knot for tying flourocarbon or monofilament leaders on braided line. I find that the knot will work better if I make more twists on the thinner line. For example, when I tie my double uni I'll make about a half dozen twists on the leader, I use flouro, but about 10 twists on the braid. I find that when I get snags the line will break at the hook more often than the double uni this way so I don't have to replace the leader as often.

 

I personally don't like to use snaps or swivels when jigging. I believe they take away some of the sensitivity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.