Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Lifetime minimum maintenance frame


eagle_3464

Recommended Posts

A good part of the interior finishing is completed. Now on to the front "V" framing for the oven and then the FRP can go in the "V" before the countertop is installed. Storage bunks are framed and ready to install after the "V" is finished. It's getting closer so we should be right on time with the ice.

full-15983-50452-dsc03214resize.jpg

full-15983-50453-dsc03215resize.jpg

full-15983-50454-dsc03216resize.jpg

full-15983-50455-dsc03217resize.jpg

full-15983-50456-dsc03219resize.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a sharp house. I really like the white interior; not enough people do that. It really brightens up a small area and makes it feel larger than it is. Also, I dig that this looks like a fishhouse and not a bunkhouse with holes in the floor. I commend you, sir.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, it has certainly been a time consuming but fun project to work on. I'm happy with the way it has turned out and not much I would change. I might think differently once we get some time in it. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles but yet plenty for a weekend getaway, especially once cabinets and TV are in. The original plans were for a bare-bones house costing $4500 to $5000 but we made some additions along the way. I am guessing we are near the $6000 mark in the end. I saved quite a bit on the frame alone building it myself. Most everything I purchased throughout the course of a year when it was on sale. We are ready to get it on the ice and catch the first fish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great build man, it looks awesome, I'm starting a build this weekend and I've been checking yours out lots for design ideas. I was curious how you feel about your suspension now that you've built it and driven it around a bit? I'm still throwing around a few ideas in my head about how to mount my leaf spring. Things like angle of the datum, and positioning of the leaf relative to the tire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mike, you're doing the right thing by viewing other builds and asking questions. This sight is awesome and people have been very helpful in answering my questions prior to and along the way. Thanks all, wouldn't have been the same without all the help.

As for the suspension, I really like the way mine works. I haven't pulled it down the road since completing but I pulled it 150 miles round trip for spray foaming. At that point the house is pretty light and you would expect it to bounce but the suspension did it's job perfectly. I was able to watch my side mirrors and see the suspension working. IMO, the capacity of the springs action is greatly reduced on the majority of frames by fixing one end and creating a pinch point somewhere along the length. Not only does that reduce the spring action but it also creates a high stress point resulting in fatigue failure. If you look back in my build you will see that my entire spring is free to flex and by use of a rubber bump stop, I am applying the loads at the midpoint just as it would be with a fixed axle trailer. Hope this description helps and look forward to seeing your build progress.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks man, that was basically what I liked about your design, it looks correct, any many others don't. I settled on my design yesterday.

full-48866-51702-image.jpg

Here's a pic, sorry about the quality, Look familiar? Haha. I put a 5/8 repad under the leaf for it to rub on with a 2" long slot in it for the bolt in the leaf to slide back and forth in, then I'll attach my shackle to the jack post like you did.

Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread, I'm excited to see your progress to come

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fans are an idea that I preplanned for and ran wiring in my walls to the location of the heater. The idea is to take some of the heat that is all going out the top and draw it down and out blowing it across the floor towards the door straight across from the heater. I placed a panel in the lower end of the heater to block the majority of the large opening to prevent the fans from drawing the cold air at the floor. I have the wires connected to the switch so I can turn the fans on and off. A 3" hole saw is perfect size for the computer fans.

I also have a second set of wires to control the hole light I have mounted in the heater door.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.