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About eagle_3464

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    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 03/04/1964

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    Alex area

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  1. eagle_3464

    Jig Spin

    How are most of you eliminating or at least greatly reducing jig spin? Does an inline swivel 12" to 18" from the jig help? I have mostly micro spinning reels but also an inline reel that is not any better than the spinning reels. If I jig lightly the spin is not so bad but the fish I am on, you need to jig aggressively until you get their attention. Once you have their attention, even so much as a twitch will turn them away. I really need to eliminate the jig spin created from jigging aggressively. I'm going to try my reel with power pro next to see if there is improvement.
  2. Not so sure I agree that a solid axle is better than independent. Have you ever looked at how much flex is in that axle under load when the tongue weight is applied? Before I got a Ranger I used a Polaris 600 and had no problems at all. I installed a chain system to limit the amount of travel in the suspension when loaded while still allowing some travel when not loaded.
  3. A while back I predicted that galvanized frames could become the norm within a few years. Now 1-1/2 yrs later I notice there is alot of chatter going on about the galvanized frame. I think it is great that so many now see this as the best solution to a tough application. Hey, even Berkon is doing it so it must be good.
  4. I'm not in the market for a new auger since purchasing an Ion, but I see FF has a Redback electric auger in their ad. This auger looks similar to the Ion for significantly less money. Does anyone have experience with this auger? Just wanted to bring it up as a possible alternative to those who might be in the market for an electric. As a side note, I am very happy with the Ion.
  5. MLR, how heavy is your house? After reading your experience I was getting worried. Earlier this summer I swapped out my handles with bolts and gave them a brief trial with my old cordless Dewalt. It was pretty much maxed out and likely not the ticket. Just purchased the Dewalt kit DCK283D2 that is 40% off at FF in hopes it might work. I figured the impact driver would work but didn't really want to be hammering on the gear set. Tried out the drill after work today on low speed and it raises my house easily. My house weighs approximately 3000#. No more hand cranking for me. Wanted to get the Milwaukee Fuel but couldn't see spending $275 for one drill. This kit is $167 for drill and driver with 2 batteries and charger.
  6. Looking good, really nice job. I see some features on that frame that look very familiar. It's good to see more people going with the galvanized frame.
  7. Give a call to North Central Speedway in Brainerd. They will order most any color you see from the Wrisco Industries color panel. By far the best price when I built. You order to the length you want and pay by the Sq Ft so you aren't paying for the drop you would have on an 8ft sheet. They order out of Chicago so it will take a week or so to get it.
  8. Was this a new tank? If it is and they did not purge it correctly, the safety valve inside the tank may be restricting LP flow. I had a new tank last year with similar problem.
  9. Matt, placement of things inside will certainly change the center of gravity and make a difference on your tongue load. You could kill two birds with one change. Your pivot arm length would not need to change but you could move the stub axles closer to the pivot point allowing only enough room to attach the front end of your fenders to the pivot tube. Doing this would reduce tongue weight and reduce the risk of your pivot arms twisting under load. Brian is correct, weight will add up quick. I built a 6'6" x 14' plus V and I am just over 3000#. Plus my trailer was nearly 200#'s lighter than you are so I am guessing you will be 3500# or more. Another thing I noticed is your rear winches. Do the winch pillars lean to the back? When framing your wheel wells make sure you allow plenty of clearance on the back side for when the winch handles are straight back. You don't want to have knuckle busters.
  10. Nice start on your build. A few things I noticed and thought I'd comment on. I'm a firm believer in running the hitch tube all the way to the back. It gives you much more stiffness in the rear frame section especially since the tubes just inside your wheels aren't full length. It looks like your distance from the wheel pivots to the stub axles is much longer than it needs to be. The longer that tube, the higher the risk of torsional twisting under load. I like how you contained both ends of the pivot point but I could see your 3/16" tube twisting between the pivot and stub axle. It is hard to tell the size of the springs in the pics. Are you saying each spring is 3500#, or are they 3500#/pair? You mentioned that the trailer is 920# with 200# tongue weight. Typically you want to design to have approximately 12% of your weight on the tongue. You currently have approximately 22%, so at that rate you will have roughly 1000# tongue weight when finished. Good luck as you continue your build. Ice season is just around the corner.
  11. I've completed a galvanized frame start to finish and it is not "lots of additional hours". Less than 40 holes added to my tubing before it is welded takes less than 1.5 hours in a good drill press. Welding time is going to be the same either way. There was about 30 to 45 minutes cleanup on the pivot areas after galvanizing. As a manufacturer you could easily haul 10 frames to galvanizing to make the cost of transportation minimal per frame. Once you have fixtures for welding, nothing needs to be assembled until after the frame is galvanized.
  12. Miltona Blacksmith does a good job. I would request that the center tube run all the way to the back of the frame. If you never plan to sell the house then road legal maybe isn't a big deal. But if you do, that might reduce the value to someone who wants to make road trips legally. In your overall frame size, make sure you consider what type of siding and how you plan to lay it out. I built my frame so that the sides are actually 14'5" to make the best use of 4' wide aluminum sheets. I figured I may as well gain the extra 5" rather than cutting the sheet and wasting it. Lots of things to consider as you begin your build. Good Luck.
  13. I also used the AdvanTech and screwed it down with self-drilling/self tapping screws. Those I used were similar to those used by LRG, but a bit heavier duty and with the star (torx) drive. I ordered them from the big box store, item 09739. They were a bit longer than necessary but shortest they offered in this size. The AdvanTech was highly recommended and the place of purchase threw a piece tied off with a rope into a lake. After a month of being in the lake there was still no swelling of the product. It is a bit heavier than kiln dried treated plywood but it is smoother and flatter with virtually no warping, making it very easy to work with. I used the same style only longer for the wall plates. I counterbored the holes about 3/8" to get a little more length into the frame. These are item 09741. At the same time ordering these, I also order SS screws item 05118 to attach the aluminum treadbrite trim.
  14. Even though they are good copies they are not exactly the same. Also we do now also offer galvanized frames.
  15. Used my new Ion for the first time yesterday and I was quite impressed. Less than 30 seconds to get through 28"+ ice. I am looking forward to using it in the wheelhouse next season.
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