Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

  • 0

Washing machine help?


jerkbait

Question

Any appliance experts out there? I need a little advice. We have a Kenmore Elite HE3T and we are getting an F20 error. I have checked all the drains and inlets, all checked good. Screens and all. Last night I replaced the flow meter and we were able to do 2 normal loads. Before we went to bed last night my wife started a heavy duty cycle and this morning the F20 error was back. So she started a normal cycle and that completed before we left for work. When I ordered the flow meter I also ordered a pressure switch. Plan to try that next. If that does not do the trick what would be the next thing to look at? Control boards are not cheap and living in BFE we are kind of on our own.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Living in BFE I assume you are on well water? Does your pressure seem constant? Or is it fluctuating?

Google also says there are some models of the he3t that an f20 can indicate a bad heater circuit. Could your washer have a heater for steam or something ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

we have all GE profile series products. fridge, washer, dryer. all new with house in 05. all of our circuit boards started going at same time 2 months ago. fridge was 150. washer was gonna b $400 but we opted for buying new one on sale instead (& repairman recommended that)

if its giving you issues and u cant find/verify them, i'd say chances are its circuit board. our washer would always stop mid cycle stating not level/off balance. we had 3 inspections with it everything in perfect condition except circuit board that smelled like burnt wire. sadly these are the items that go first these days on this new stuff.

kinda like a vehicle with a great engine but bad sensors telling it not to start or something else cause the electronics tell it their is something wrong event though there really isnt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I wasn't thinking you could have contaminants in the system, I was more so seeing if you could have a pump or pressure tank going bad. Do you seem to have a fairly consistent and reliable flow of water throughout the house? Try running a hose for a couple minutes to see if the pressure drops significantly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I don't want to steal this thread but since when do wash machines have all these controls? Why? We have a 15 or 20 year old low end rig that seems to get the clothes clean and there are about 6 parts that could go kalfooey. And it is relatively simple to figure out what one is boogered up. No codes involved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Our front load washer is starting to dump water all over the floor if the load doesn't balance itself. I know it's probably just a seal or something easy to replace. The Mrs. demands she get another but I can't justify the kaching to replace something that's going to be a pile of dump in a couple years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

I don't want to steal this thread but since when do wash machines have all these controls? Why? We have a 15 or 20 year old low end rig that seems to get the clothes clean and there are about 6 parts that could go kalfooey. And it is relatively simple to figure out what one is boogered up. No codes involved.

most everything is made to operate like that these days such as newer vehicles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

For every appliance problem, there are usually at least three things that can cause the issue.

Look inside the washer door and get the model number. A Sears model number will be three digits, a decimal point, then eight or nine more digits. The first three may be printed differently, or stamped, but it is the part that tells you who made that thing for Sears. For example, if it's 110.something, it was made by Whirlpool, 911. something would be GE ( which we, where I work, think that's just funny right there).

Once you've found out who made it, call around until you find an authorized servicer for that brand. You usually can bring it to them, it will be a lot cheaper, especially if you consider how much you can put into parts that you didn't need. At the store I work at, we charge $24.00 for an estimate. If it gets the death penalty, we will usually credit half back towards the purchase of a new machine.

To determine if your machine has a water heater, look for a "Sanitary" cycle or "Steam" options. Both will heat the water temperature past your water heater's temperature.

Also, weigh in the age of the machine. New front load washer life expectancy is only about ten or eleven years on the average. Usually, folks will opt to buy new if the cost of repairs gets in the neighborhood of half the cost of a new machine, especially when it has half or more of that life expectancy gone.

Electronics in these machines are a two sided coin. On one hand, they make the machines work so much more efficiently and way more cost effective, but they are often messed up by shorts or electric spikes, which are a byproduct of inconsistencies in our electric utilities not the quality of the part. They do, however, play a big part in the decreased life expectancy of the machine.

Bad news for Tom, even the low end machines have electronic controls these days and the life expectancy of those machine is down to around seventeen years. If you are looking for top load and longer life expectancy, I have two words for you...Speed Queen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

We had that a awhile ago and it took Sears 4 trips out and every switch and module(5 total) before it was fixed. Good thing we had the insurance coverage on it since between the 5 parts and the labor it would have cost us over $1300- about what we paid for it. If the last part they put in didn't work they were going to consider it a lemon and get us a brand new one.

Have you had any power surges lately, we think that is what caused our problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

We sent our Kenmore packing on Monday. The Mrs just got herself a new LG. Only had to replace one pump and it's life here ended with a torn drum seal. No other electronic issues.

The dryer will be the next to go. I've put 3 heating elements in it over 11 years with the most recent installed last week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.