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Aluminium Trailer fix need suggestions


DTro

Question

I was headed up to the Burntside Bash this weekend and as I was heading out, I noticed the trailer was tweaked a bit. After doing some inspection I found that the bolt that the trailer pivots on (to tilt) sheared off.

The both sections of the bolt are frozen solid and I can't budge them.

It looks like there is a welded housing that the bolt slides into. I'm guessing this acts as a bushing or maybe there is a separate bushing inside there as well.

Is there an easy fix here? I suppose I could cut the bolt head and nut off and then drill a new hole next it. But then I think I would have to do the same thing on the other side as well. I don't think I can just run a bolt through either can I? I would need some sort of bushing right?

Maybe a hole saw just slightly bigger than the bolt and smaller than the bushing?

Thoughts?

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You should be able to get it hot enough with even a small propane torch (think plumbing). Get it hot and soak it down with a 50/50 acetone/transmission fluid combination. Let it sit, cool and repeat, then get the surrounding alum hot around the bolt and get on it with an air hammer. I have heard about a candle trick, where you get the bolt red hot and melt a candle into it and the wax wicks itself down around the bolt. Haven't tried it but I've heard it works...

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Flip the trailer over so you can work on it.

Drill 1/4" a hole in the center of the tubing and soak it with PN.

Now give it heat and try and turn the bolt. No go, give it more PB when hot and let it soak.

An impact wrench might not turn it right away so let it knock on the bolt for a while. Coarse giving time for the compressor to recover. Use an air hammer to knock it out after you get it loose. You might have to alternate to a breaker bar because that'll have a lot more torque then an impact wrench. If you have an assistant one of you use the impact wrench(in reverse) while the other guy hits the bolt with a punch and hammer.

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Thanks guys, I totally didnt think about drilling into the tubing/bushing to get some lube in there.  Its pretty much sealed on both ends with corrosion so maybe that will help, I’ve been soaking it from the outside, but not sure its really doing anything.

 

Also thought flipping the trailer would help a lot, but tough to do solo.  

 

Will MAPP gas get hot enough to break this galvanic bond?   Some people around the webz say no that it won’t, that you need Acetylene.

 

Would have been a great place to put a zerk when they built the thing…

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Temps in oxygen;

Mapp 2925 °C (5300 °F).

Acetylene 3160 °C (5720 °F)

I honestly don't know the temp required to break the galvonic bond you have going on. However, in the future you can eliminate it simply by using nylon washer(s).

Having said I don't know for sure, I'm guessing you need some Acetylene.

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Dtro if your in need of acetylene torches My buddy Nick in J town has a small portable set that I'm sure he would loan you.

I will be down that way on Wed and could swing in and give you a hand also.

I would also slather it in anti seize before installing if no zert is used.

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Temps in oxygen;

Mapp 2925 °C (5300 °F).

Acetylene 3160 °C (5720 °F)

I honestly don't know the temp required to break the galvonic bond you have going on. However, in the future you can eliminate it simply by using nylon washer(s).

Having said I don't know for sure, I'm guessing you need some Acetylene.

1,221°F (660.3°C)Aluminium, Melting point

Just saying! frown

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What!!! You don't have that fixed yet. I didn't chime in because I figured you had that baby fixed up already. That's a gravy job there.

Frank gave a great suggestion of flipping the trailer over, it would make it much easier to work on but not that it can't be done where it's at. You got a couple choices, you can heat the bolt, [not the frame]cool, heat, cool. You may have to do this 5,6,12 times it'll loosen then use an air hammer would probably be best. A hammer and drift might bend frame a little.

Or if it was me I'd use a cutting torch and blast that bolt out of there. You got 2 sides to work from and you can do a little each side till your through and then put a small slice to the outer edge of bolt to relieve tension, that bolt will nearly fall out of there now. If you really need precision or more confidence put a new cutting tip on torch. If I was near ya I'd help you in a heartbeat. I've done this kind of stuff frequently and am confident about my torch skills. You need a Acty/oxy torch for this job, mapp gas may work but I don't think it'll have the push for that size bolt. I'm surprised that it puts out that much heat.

Whatever you do make sure you wrap them wire harnesses in a big towel soaked with water so you not making more work for yourself melting wires. When re-assembling if you could put some kind of grease zerks in there, either the pin or maybe one on the back of that aluminim spacer between frame rails. Wear safety glasses and leather gloves. while your at it take the other pivot points apart and clean them up and grease them too. Good luck.

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Blast is to strong of a word. Your just getting a red dot in the center of bolt and gently pushing on cutter lever so you cut slowly. If you think its getting too hot go to the other side, if you still think its getting too hot, take a break for 20 min. or spray some monkey pee on it and in a 5min toss some water on it. Also put aboard between your wood sled bed too to protect it. There isn't really much else to protect and it's a wide open area type job.

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