Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Braid of choice


7mm-08

Recommended Posts

I was thinking of trying some 10lb suffix 832 this year for jigging and throwing small cranks for walleyes. I was kinda concerned about the fading colors i have heard of. So what's your favorite braid and what walleye applications do you use it for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like 832 in hi vis green. I think I have 6 lb and I run a fluoro leader. I would recommend running some type of leader line, especially if you have 10lb 832, because if you get snagged, you may break your rod before the line breaks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would recommend running some type of leader line, especially if you have 10lb 832, because if you get snagged, you may break your rod before the line breaks.

If you get snagged, DO NOT use the rod. Point the rod strait at the snag, grap the spool and just gently pull back. Something cheaper than your rod and reel will give.

I run 30lb 832 on my bottom bouncer rods and the bottom bouncers do get wedged in the rocks. I have never broken a rod or reel getting them out that way. Usually the swivel will give was first, and I use good swivels!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"If you get snagged, DO NOT use the rod. Point the rod strait at the snag, grap the spool and just gently pull back. Something cheaper than your rod and reel will give."

Wonderful advice. I just about puke when I see someone bending their rod half over on a snag. :-) (especially if it's one of mine).

Are you using it on spinning reel or casting reel?

I like the 832 in diff diameters on casting but have had much better luck on spinning reel with the 'fused' type braids. They don't seem to fade or wear out as fast, and are great in cold weater. And you can go lighter than you think. One size under what I would with mono. Jigging with the stuff is amaizing.

Most of the true braids are going to color fade. I'm not out there for a fashion contest or color coordinating so it hasn't really bothered me too much. Although I put hi viz on few rods for a reason so it would be nice if it stayed that way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you using it on spinning reel or casting reel?

I'm going to use it on a spinning reel. Also the color thing really isn't a big deal either just bugs me a little. for those that use braid what is your preference for a spinning reel specifically?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used 2, power pro and spider wire. i noticed sider when twisted i can see in between the weaves plus its more prone to fray, on the line itself and alot on tag ends, power pro I've never noticed any fraying on the tag ends but it does fray a little on the line itself but it usualy stays the most "slick" and when twisted it still stays tight and you wont be able to see the thread weaves, they will always fade in color but it has never changed my catchability. I;d go power pro unless anyone can suggest the perfect braid in terms of never fraying or fading in color, better yet disapears like fluro in water

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like 10lb suffix metered braid + you can troll with out a line counter.

For casting I like 8lb Nono-fil. I like the White/crystal. It is the best for line watching.

With floro leader on both. For abrasion resistance and if a big fish like a Northern rolls up in the line the line won't cut in to the fish in a candy cane stripe pattern. It doesn't just cut into hands when pulled tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup hunk of broom handle with some elec tape on it. I've bent many o gammi circle hooks on the MN doing that. 80# is tough!

As far as braid choice I do like Suffix more than PP, but I have both.

As far as fading goes. I use a black permanent marker (sharpie) and cut a slit on the tip then slide the line 18" or so inches. I do this when I'm tying direct (jig/tube) and want the strength of braid and as natural as it's going to get. 2c

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used power pro for several years on spinning rods. I don't care for it on my muskie rods. I've also tried 832 on some rods the last couple years and I don't think you can go wrong with either.

I tried nano-fil on a rod last year for the first time and you might want to try that. The bright white line is very easy to see and it casts better than either power pro or 832. I personally don't like a hi-vis line. I like my line to be more stealth.

Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used power pro for several years on spinning rods.

Good luck

I put 5 lb power pro (1 lb dia) on a spinning reel (for vertical jigging) a couple years ago and it became a wind knot disaster in a short time!! Have used heavier braids including power pro on spinning reels with good results but no more 1 lb.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Yep, cat dudes know the drill. When you get that heavy line snagged there isn't anything else you can do."

So do the muskie guys! grin

I once dragged what was around a 20' trunk of a tree from one bank to another when i snagged it with 40# PowerPro once... It was a long slow struggle... but eventually I got my lure back laugh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.