Strikemaster...my opinion..

[deerminator]

I just bought a new Jiffy Artic Blast or what they now call the sd60i. It's the entry-level model. It runs and cuts great and its my first power auger. I had to figure it all out on my own, just like I did with my first bow. Anywhoo, when I went to the "Farm" and investigated the different makes and models, some sales guy told me, Jiffys are the most reliable, Strikmasters next and Eskimos won't last very long at all. Per the latter, I asked "then why are you selling them?" And he just shook his head. Bottom line, I agree, some models, regardless of make are probably nicer than others, but I'd bet they all cut many holes without issue if you take care of the machine. BTW, per the handles, so what if they're plastic. I had no idea plastic = junk. My entry-level Jiffy doesn't have the rubberized handles. Rather than paying $75 for the next model up to get them, I bought a $2 roll of hockey tape. : )

[gonehunting]

That is my point. I needed a new washer and dryer and reveiwed all kinds of websites. No matter what model you found they all had good and bad reviews. To call Strikemaster a bunch of junk is like calling Whirlpool or Maytag junk. If I went by one guy's opinion(review) I never would've been satisfied with any new washer and dryer There is always going to be some bad reviews. Again, I said this is my opinion. Take it for what it is worth. This thread is one guy's opinion.

[KrashR]

Rather that crying about the problem has anyone found a fix to the Tecumseh 2 horse engine problems? I had an old jiffy 30 that ran like dump and I had to have D-rock put an adjustable carb on. Ran perfect after that, started on first or second pull and ran like a raped ape no matter the temperature outside.

Anyways that got stolen and I replaced it with a lighter mag express. It never ran quite right from the day I bought it, and I just broke down and bought and entire carb kit, gas line, carb fuel inlet and it still runs the same... It just takes forever to start in the cold and once its started runs fine but if it shuts off its like starting a dead cold engine again. This has the non-adjustable EPA carb like my old Jiffy had, does anyone know if you can replace it?

Also when I was rebuilding the carb and pulling recoil slowly I didn't see ANY gap where it could suck fuel in when the piston was at BDC?? Maybe its just tiny and not visible to the naked eye but does anyone think you could port the intake tract to make it run better? Maybe it was built so tight due to EPA rules or just bad tolerances (why some run good and others don't)

[Cast A Way]

I have a SM Lazer express 10" purchased in 2009. Needed some minor adustments from SM under warrenty, but since have had no problems.

[Love2Cabin]

Now there is a guy who thinks good thoughts. Take something that is pretty good and make it better. Because of the laws they have to make them run so lean that when out on the ice performance suffers. I bet if I guy took about 3 mil of the intake side of the piston and could find a adjustable carb to put on that thing would really come to life. I just might try that during the off season.

[buzbunni]

Always laugh when the best argument for a Strikemaster over a Nils is the slush in the hole. I'll keeping scooping out the slush.

Didn't realize this was an issue with the Nils until reading this thread.

Good to know.

If the ice is thick, and you are a big time hole driller, having to scoop out the slush in each hole would be a pain.

No good if you can't even get the 'ducer (or a lure) through the slush.

[harvey lee]

I would assume one cannot purchase all new products one uses in the same state they live in. Just think if ones transducer acts up and one has to send it in, dump happens and that is life my friend.

Name me one product that come so great one never needs to do a thing to it and or it never breaks? We do not live inn a perfect world.

It's to bad some have had issues with thier auger but that problem is not a problem only StrikeMaster has. At least if we are all going to be honest.

Over the years I have seen every product made bashed to pieces on these forums so, I take alot with a grain of salt.

I will continue to use my Solo no matter oif the pitch was off due to soemthing simple I did or if it is a weakness in the blade. There is not a perfect product made .

[BoxMN]

I think it was mentioned above, but really with these engines you need to maintain them but also get to know how to start them, as each one is kinda different. I had a Jiffy model 30, great auger, but heavy. Cut awesome, and I could start it great. If anybody else would try, they would likely flood it, but I had it down to a science. Only thing I ever did until I sold to a buddy was put a new recoil rope on it. Ran a TON better when I went to only non-oxy gas and Amsoil.

Also have a Mag III that I got used, and I gotta say, this has always started great for anybody on second pull, once I got some good gas in it and used Amsoil. Still running great.

Now my main auger is Lazer Pro, and after learning the starting process better, it is starting and idling great, and cuts faster than my favorite old Jiffy did. (I wasn't priming it enough when I first got it.)

Sleds are like that too - once you learn how each likes the choke/half choke, they start in 2 pulls, maybe 3 if about -15

Worst thing for an engine is not using it enough (Ask my Honda Magna about that since I haven't bee riding it enough, ha!), or putting corn gas in a small engine.

[harvey lee]

You hit the nail on the head. Does not hurt to keep the air filter new and a good plug also.

Mine I hit the primer 2 times, put it on choke and pull. Pull again and it fires but I may need to then take choke off and pull a 3rd time.

Always starts on the 3rd pull.

if another tried to start this auger and did not follow this sequence, I am sure they would have a harder time getting it to run.

I have used Amsoil Sabre oil in all of my augers and am going to start on this one also. Seems to run better, idel better and not near the oil residue in the exhaust and no smoke ever.

Each auger is like it's own animal.

[CaptainMusky]

Very good points Harvey and Box. I have a Stihl chainsaw which is the easiest to start chainsaw I have ever used. I let a buddy borrow it who is a smart guy. I explained the starting sequence to him and handed it over, didnt show him, just described it.

Talked to him a few days later and he never got it started, replaced the plug, replaced the gas and never got it to run.

He gave it back to me and in two pulls I had it started.

Go figure.

[BLACKJACK]

Strikemaster customer for life.

+1

My 12 year old Strikemaster starts on the third pull every time, has never been in the shop, and is a cutting machine. Fresh gas every year and run empty at the end of the season is all I've ever done. Only problem I ever had was the original cap was one of those steel leaky bastards, replaced it with the newer design, no leaks since.

If it takes 20-30 pulls to start your auger, then the problem is the jerk behind the pull string, either poor maintenance or too cheap or lazy to take it to a shop.

[Scott K]

When I bought my Lazer, it started hard, I called SM, they told me because of tight emissions, and how they are tested, they have to have them set lean, and be sent without adjustable carbs. He said they are set, and tested in a warm, controlled environment(room temperature), then when it gets cold, outside, they would naturally run lean. He told me to just bring it to any small engine repair facility that services Tech engines, and they will replace the carb under warranty. I did this, and since then, it has always started on the 2nd, or third pull since. The only other issue I had wwith it, was the fuel line leaking, but less then a dollar for new fuel line, and a couple minutes of my time, and that was fixed.

Strike Master sells a lot more augers then the other companies combined. So one would obviously see more bad reviews from having some problems. Even when those problems were caused by themselves. Such as dropping the auger, pushing down hard on the auger and bending the pitch, leaving old gas in it, etc..