Replacement carb for a older strikemaster lazer mag

[bgcountry00]

Well I have a problem, I brought my SM into a authorized SM reapir shop and they cleaned and soaked the carb and tried to get it tuned up and it still runs rough. I went and picked it up as I was told that it would take at least another hour to diagnose if it had a air leak or needed a new carb and they were over $100 that I wanted to spend for a tune up. so what is next can you get new carbs for the tc300 motors or am I out of luck. and I am to far from big lake to just stop down there it is a few hour trip

[Walleyehooker]

You definitly need to find a better shop. Not sure if strikemaster sells carbs but a GOOD small engine shop should be able to get you one. Ive done probably 100 carbs and never had to replace one. Very rare unless you damage or strip out threads or something. You should try to find a better authorized strikemaster service center and you should get it fixed for under $50 unless there is something wrong with the motor.I would even call strikemaster and tell them how they handled the deal.

[Walleyehooker]

Also they are no longer in Big Lake since Rapala bought them out.

[bgcountry00]

Yeah I will be looking around for another shop. on a good note if it does go somewhere else I already paid for a whole new kit plus airfilter and they soaked the carb supposivly so it should be clean in and out. and a new champion plug. not sure if I should go with a hotter plug or what

[jdog]

champion plugs are not good plugs

[bgcountry00]

what should you run that is what SM recomends

[JigginIsLife]

I wish i could remember the topic that had this, but i know its on here somewhere search for it and do some research. I also posed this question about 2 weeks ago maybe 1, and i was directed towards D-Rock Small engines out of New Brighton. I had called up there, but wasnt near my auger head to give the numbers (i didnt realize the lazer mag express came in so many variations.) Anyways thats what im working on right now, SOmething is wrong with my motor, but i will try a carb kit first, and go from there besides its my 8th year owning it, and its the first problem ive had with my SM

[leech~~]

+ Plus 1 on D-Rock in New Brighton. They do a lot of service work on SM and their parts are cheaper then most places. I had to get a new gas cap for my old Mag III and Fleet wanted $19.95 and D-Rock had them for around $10.

[Walleyehooker]

I posted this a while back. If you are sure your carb is clean and it still doesnt run right bogs down,wont idle, runs rough, a lot of times the problem is the tab under the diaphram is out of adjustment. This is a very common problem and it only has to be off a tiny bit to cause problems.

Here is a video

probably not the same carb but about half way threw he removes the cover for the diaphram. If you can remove the diaphram without tearing it there is what he calls a leever underneath it. Its the little tab that gets out of adjustment. This is a very common problem and just happens with use of the auger and only has to be a little off to cause problems. Usually gets bent down with use and needs to be bent back up just a little.

[Wes Ellis]

Im with Walleyehookr. I worked on ice augers for 20 plus years and I hever replaced a carb!! How ever some of the carb kits are JUNK!!! I have all so found that if the little in let screen is not replaced it is sometimes pluged up?

[leech~~]

WH, that is a very good video and the carb looks a lot like the ones in the SM augers. The diaphragm activates the needle valve to regulate gas flow and a lot of times even though they look ok, they have become hard and brittle and will not activate. I just replaced one a few weeks ago which looked ok, but when I pushed it a little it would just stick in and would not come back out unless you pushed it back out. A new one will move in and out by it's self when pushed on. If it can't move freely, it can not regulate the gas flow. It's just another good thing the change if you are in there!

[Walleyehooker]

Good point Wes as that little screen gets overlooked at times. When cleaning a carb a small air compressor to blow everything out is very handy and it also helps dry everything out before you reassemble it.

[Walleyehooker]

Another thing if your auger is out in the cold storage and you havnt started it yet,bring it inside overnight and let it warm up and dry out. They usually start much easier and once you get them running good for the first time then they are good to go. Use common sense so it doesnt leak gas in the house.

[bgcountry00]

well I bought some premium non oxygenated fuel and AMSOIL oil and some seafoam and put it in the gas tank started up and ran it just fine

[bgreen82]

just had a carb kit installed on my mag 2000 at d rock center a few weeks ago. runs great. took a week and a half, but there was on ice yet anyways.

[Surface Tension]

Don't underestimate what old fuel will do.

The diaphragm carbs most augers use don't wear out as there isn't anything to wear out other then rebuild kits includes diaphrams, gaskets, needle and seats.

Most common reason for buying a new carb is because the person is intimidated over the cleaning and rebuild. There are some shops that after cleaning still aren't able to get the engine running right.

More times then not its because after rebuild the carb wasn't cleaned thoroughly.

Its the small passages and circuits that clog. Lastly there are times when the welsh plugs need to be removed to get a restriction out.